Океан, огромные ледники, ураганные ветра, вулканы, пыльные бури и изнуряющие километры троп и дорог. Стоит ли оно того? Да, стоит!
Чтобы охватить как можно больше красот этой страны, я решила ехать сразу на месяц и совместить в одной поездке пешеходный трек и велосипедную часть, чтобы посмотреть и юг Исландии, который по моему скромному мнению не слишком удачен для велосипеда, и её умиротворенный север, и восточные фьорды.
Итак, это история в двух частях о том, как я ела, спала и уставала в самой красивой и суровой стране мира...
Фактический график пешей и велосипедной части. Зеленая - пешеходная, желтая - велосипедная.
Участники похода:
Глушкова Светлана (Барнаул) - автор маршрута и руководитель самой себя)
Исландия пешком (25 июля - 3 августа):
Ландманналёйгар - Торсмёрк - Скогар, прогулки в районе поселка Вик
Человек предполагает, а Бог располагает... Эта часть моего Исландского путешествия не должна была быть одиночной, но всё же ей стала, но это история не о том. Эта история о местах, где концентрация самых необычных красот на земле достигает апогея - вулканов и гейзеров, фумаролов и водопадов, пустынь и каньонов, ледников и океана. Без этой треккинговой части моё знакомство с Исландией было бы неполноценным, и велопохода точно бы не хватило.
Исландия на велосипеде (4-18 августа):
Раздался гулкий раскат пароходного гудка, и в тот же момент часы на главной башне лютеранской церкви пробили 18:00, и огромный теплоход начал медленно набирать ход.... Так могла бы начинаться хорошая книга, но сегодня это одно мгновенье из жизни маленького портового городка Акурейри. А я гляжу на этот огромный круизный теплоход на тысячи мест и думаю: "Может быть когда-нибудь я тоже буду в сухой теплой маленькой каюте смотреть на пролетающих чаек, на маленькие рыбацкие и экскурсионные шлюпки, попивать хороший чай с книжкой в руке, и радоваться старости, тому что не нужно жить месяц на улице в палатке одной, каждый день преодолевать суровость северной природы, и уметь и в этом состоянии удивляться настоящему и матереть под жёсткими исландскими ветрами. Может…"
Исландия на велосипеде далась изнуряюще непросто. Кто понимает в цифрах, тот поймет, что такое 7,8,9 часов чистого времени педаляжа под исландскими бурями и дождями, даже при скромных наборах высоты. "Света, а давай проедем два дня за один?" - говорила я себе чуть ли не каждое утро.... а вечером прибавляла: "Света, пообещай мне сейчас, а не утром, что мы больше никогда не будем ездить два дня за один!!!", и через день история повторялась))).
Общая карта велосипедной части маршрута:
Общая карта пешеходной части маршрута:
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