06 Фев 2018

Вступление

Трек Ландманналаугар - Торсмёрк - Скогар - это довольно классический и популярный пешеходный трек в Исландии, и я бы сказала что он must have для всех активных путешественников в этой стране. При разработке маршрута я поняла, что хоть вокруг этого трека и есть довольно живописные дороги пригодняе для велика, но самое красивое всё же на тропах. Так было принято решение объединить трек и велосипед в одной поездке. Не самая простая и дешевая история с точки зрения логистики. Но если вы не собираетесь возвращаться в Исландию еще раз, то она имеет смысл.

25- 26 июля. Рейкьявик

Перелеты прошли на удивление гладко. Только погулять в Дюссельдорфе не удалось, так как лил очень сильный дождь. Оставила прогулки на обратную дорогу.

Аня встретила меня посреди ночи на остановке у кемпинга. Багаж долетел успешно, его я видела еще на выгрузке. Благодаря Ане я знала, куда пойти и как пройдет пересадка в автобусе, следующем от аэропорта до кемпинга через автобусный терминал. Это было для меня важно, учитывая, что прилетала я ночью.

Мы поставили палатку (хорошо, что в Исландии по ночам еще светло) и Аня осталась ждать, когда кто-нть приёдет на ресепшен, чтобы забрать свой рюкзак из камеры хранения, а я пошла спать. Шел уже третий час ночи.

Странно, что выспалась я уже к 8 утра. Утром, пока я возилась на кухне кемпинга с кипятком, туда принесли кучу еды на бесплатные полки, где оставляют продукты те, кто уезжает в аэропорт и кому они уже больше не нужны. Так мы притарили себе кое-чего недостающего, что могло пригодиться в походе: сухих супов, консервы на первый день, и картошки с морковкой на суп на вечер. А также пару полных баллонов газа на 500грамм, что было совсем чудесно, учитывая их очень высокую стоимость. Забегая вперед скажу, что мне их двух хватило до конца похода по Исландии.

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Мы еще до похода решали, уедем ли в Ландманналёйгар сразу или на следующий день. Я знала, что сегодня есть туда автобус на 16:00, что было более чем подходящим временем. Парень на ресепшене кемпинга, который к тому же еще оказался русскоговорящим родом с Прибалтики, сказал, что билеты есть, и это была прекрасная новость. Я купила нам билеты и заодно оставила велосипед на в камере хранения, доложив в него чистую одежду, в которой прилетела.

После завтрака мы отправились до «Бонуса» закупиться продуктами, прогулялись по набережной и парку, упаковались и выдвинулись на автовокзал.

Погода была очень солнечная.
В 16:00 пришел автобус. Вопреки моим ожиданиям он был большой и комфортный. Оказалось, что он пересаживает на трассе пассажиров в проходимый автобус 4WD перед бездорожной частью. Вообще в Исландии пересадки на трассе у междугородних автобусов – довольно распространенная практика с целью оптимизации маршрутов. Так например рейс Рейкьявик – Хёфн хоть и проходит весь по трасе №1 и никаких проблем с проходимостью нет, однако по факту посреди маршрута происходит пересадка в другой автобус, и автобусы разворачиваются обратно с пассажирами друг друга.

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Дорога до Ландманналаугара красивая, гористая, и вполне симпатичная для велосипедов. В конечный пункт мы приехали около 21 часа. Выбрали себе место на травке чуть поодаль от основного столпотворения, хоть и немного подболоченное. Поставили палатку, и отправились в естественную горячую купальню неподалеку, которая образована в холодной реке в месте, куда в нее втекает горячий источник. Место приятное, но так как слои горячей и холодной воды не перемешиваются, то плечам горячо, а попа мерзнет, и выбираться на исландский ветер оттуда прохладновато. Но зато прошли своеобразное «крещение» перед началом активной части, и смыли с себя дорожную пыль.

А вечером из припасенных продуктов сварили очень вкусный томатный суп с картошкой, морковкой, лучком. Когда еще я так вкусно поем нормальной пищи?!

27 июля. Дневка в Ландманналаугаре. Мои глаза - моё богатство.

Сегодня состоялось мое первое знакомство с… горами Исландии? Нет. Хотя и с ними тоже. С вулканической пылью и песком.

С утра дуло не по-детски, и горы и ущелья медленно, но верно заполняла песчаная дымка. А мы отправились радиалить на ближайшую вершину Блахнукур (943м) с набором в 600 метров. Восхождение очень красивое, и виды на долину реки, наполняемую пылью, и на цветные реолитовые горы – просто потрясные. Блахнукур является вулканом, и переводится как «голубой пик» за серо-голубые цвета лавовых потоков и вулканического пепла, покрывающих гору. И с этим названием трудно не согласиться.

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Но задувало при подъеме на вершину и спуске с нее так сильно, что одной рукой я опиралась на треккинговую палочку, а другой прикрывала глаза от швыряемого порывами ветра вулканического песка.

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С горы мы спустились с другой стороны, сделав очень красивое кольцо по окрестностям, перебрели небольшую разлившуюся речку, пересекли лавовое поле, поздоровались с первым фумаролом на своем пути и вернулись в лагерь около 13:30. Долго принимали решение, выходить ли после обеда на маршрут или отложить выход на завтра. Но небо хмурилось, а вечерняя стоянка была бы высоко в горах и довольно суровой, и прийти на 1000 метров в дождь и ветер совсем не хотелось, так что я прекратила наши метания, сказав: «завтра!». И мы принялись варить обед.

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Пообедав я поняла, что движения мне катастрофически не хватило, поэтому оставив Аню, которая уже вдоволь нагулялась, в лагере, я ушла в еще одну радиалку к водопаду.

Несколько раз принимался накрапывать мелкий дождик, но терпел. Напрыгавшись через штук 20 проток реки, насладившись закатным солнцем, поздоровавшись со всеми барашками, пасущимися в долине, и довольная таким наполненным днем, я спокойная и умиротворенная вернулась в лагерь варить ужин.

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Ближе к ночи полил дождь, да такой сильный, что мы подумали : «хорошо, что никуда сегодня не пошли». А еще лучше, что приехали вчера и провели в этом прекрасном месте целый день.

Вечер омрачило только одно нешуточное дело. Песок все ж попал мне в глаз, а так как глаз у меня «ленивый», то мелкие песчинки повредили слизистую, оставшись в подслизистом слое, откуда их просто так не промыть. К вечеру он начал воспаляться, и веко стало царапаться. Дело было плохо, так как я уже в таких ситуациях была, и они для меня заканчивались, как правило, глазным травмпунктом. Еще в обед я сделала попытку устранить песчинки закапав глаз каплями для носа, они пригодны для глаз и иногда это помогает. Но видать не в этот раз. Я заволновалась, что не смогу протерпеть больше двух дней и придется возвращаться в Рейкьявик. У Ани был пригодный антисептик. Я еще раз промыла им глаза, и еще раз прокапала сосудосуживающим Ксиленом для носа, и закрыв глаз, легла спать, стараясь не моргать, чтоб не беспокоить. За ночь глаз загноился, и когда я проснулась посреди ночи, открыть я его не смогла, но по ощущениям болеть он перестал, и я оставив его закрытым, сходила по делам, и успокоенная легла спать дальше.

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Утром, аккуратно убрав гной, открыла свой свежий глаз. Веки были подпухшие, но мусор все ж выдавило, и глаз был чистый, а слизистая невоспаленная. И это было большое облегчение! Если не сказать, что я была просто счастлива. Мы могли продолжать!

28 июля. Ландманналаугар – озеро Алфтаватн. Начали за здравие...

Всю ночь и утро лил очень сильный дождь, подтапливая и без того подтопленную территорию вокруг нашей палатки. Хорошо, что палатка с юбкой, и ветром воду не захлестывало под тент. А я лежала и ждала, когда ж будет просвет. И вот около 7 утра дождь прекратился, и наметилась перспектива на улучшение. И мы стали готовить завтрак и собираться в путь.

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Плюс дождя: он прибил вулканическую пыль, и атмосфера была чистой, а цветные горы выглядели умытыми и жизнерадостными.
Вышли мы около 9 утра. Вначале тропа частично повторяла концовку вчерашней радиалки, но после фумарола начала забирать вверх на плато. Этот день стал, пожалуй, самым живописным за весь пеший поход. Цветные горы, снежники, ледяные арки и реки, кипящие горячие струи из-под земли.

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Постепенно дорога все забирала и забирала наверх и вышла на огромные снежные поля на хребте. Тропа хорошо промечена, но тем не менее встречаются памятные знаки о погибших здесь туристах, в основном в межсезонье. И надо сказать, попасть здесь в метель, или провалиться со снежного моста в трещину при плохой видимости совсем не сложно.

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Перед местечком Храфнискур на перевале стоит указатель со светодиодной подсветкой на солнечных батареях с аккумулятором, что очень актуально тут в туман. Но у нас отличная погода, хоть и ветер. Но куда здесь без него?

К первому кемпингу в Храфнискур мы дощли как раз в обед, и даже плотно перекусили здесь, заодно нагрев чаю, для чего пришлось прятаться с горелкой в туалет. Отдохнув, мы отправились дальше.

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После обеда тропа красивейшими ущельями спускается вниз, через ручьи и водопады. Нам однозначно везет с видимостью. С перевала открывается потрасающий вид на вулкан Эйяфьятлайокудль, и прилегающие к нему ледники и долины, и на само озеро Алфтавант, цель сегодняшнего дня.
Банально говорить, что пейзажи инопланетные, но они именно такие. Иногда возникает ощущение, что ты смотришь на плакат с какими-нибудь фотообоями с компьютерной графикой.

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Где-то в 4 км не доходя до озера случился первый более менее серьезный брод. Мне издалека не понравилось место, где предыдущие переходили эту реку, и я решила искать брод пораньше. И в общем-то нашла, но немного неуютно было переходить его в одиночку. Тем временем к нам спустилась группа из 4 возрастных немцем – двух мужчин и двух женщин, и решили переходить неподалеку. И мы решили, что с ними нам будет спокойнее. Так во время брода мы и познакомились. С ними затем я периодически общалась до конца пешей части маршрута.

Брод был до колена, холодный, но вполне терпимый.
После брода Аня начала отставать, а погода начала хмуриться, и я решила ее не ждать а уйти сразу до лагеря, чтоб поставить палатку до возможного дождя. И так и сделала. Лагерь никак не закрыт от ветра, но есть множество камней, которыми я на всякий случай подстраховала палатку от перипетий погоды.

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Аня, прийдя и оставив вещи, отправилась в душ. Но до душа она так и не дошла. Включив телефон, она получила известие, что погиб ее близкий человек. Это поставило всё с ног на голову. Для Ани вечер прошел в слезах. Было нервно, и я не особо знала, как себя в этой ситуации вести. Настроения не было. Над озером рдел потрясающий закат, а я не могла даже протянуть руку к фотоаппарату. Мысли были о другом.

Я еле сготовила ужин. Кушать не хотелось, но было необходимо. Аня решила утром эвакуироваться в Рейкьявик и улетать в Москву.

В целом это ничего не рушило и не меняло в моих планах. Но все ж разовый минутный страх «а как же я буду одна» появился, но также сразу и прошел. Неделя раньше, неделя позже – какая разница, все равно впереди у меня была велоодиночка. Большей проблемой было то, что теперь мне придется нести больше продуктов, а учитывая итак то, что я слегка перегружена, это не было хорошо, но выполнимо.

А еще, мы вечером все ж сходили в душ. 500кронн за 5 минут. 5 минут конечно мало, чтобы расслабить мышцы, но чтоб помыться и помыть голову – вполне достаточно.

Ночь я спала плохо. Слишком много мыслей вертелось в голове.

29 июля. Алфтаватн – Емстур (Ботнар). "Не думай о погоде"

Утром я перепаковала продукты, и даже презентовала упаковку хрена украинским ребятам, стоящим неподалеку. Вес рюкзака в итоге получился конечно тяжелее, чем был, но терпим.

Мы позавтракали, я проводила Аню на ресепшен ждать автобуса, выспросила у девушки про броды предстоящего дня и в 8:30 вышла на тропу.
Оба брода случились сразу же, почти в начале дневного пути. Один довольно мелкий, второй посерьезней, чуть выше колена.

Тут мне хотелось бы сказать про людей.

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Не смотря на то, что утром довольно много людей выходит на тропу, они совсем не мешают, вопреки ожиданиям. Наши Аккемская и Кучерлинская тропы на Алтае загружены в сезон куда больше. Народ делится на две категории – с полноценными рюкзаками и с маленькими заплечниками, и есть еще те, кто в принципе несет большой рюкзак, но один на четверых рюкзак с палатками и едой у них пробрасывается вездеходом по объездной дороге с другими рюкзаками. Идти с полным рюкзаком сильно тяжелее и таких меньшенство, но зато в любую непогоду я прихожу, ставлю палатку, прячусь, готовлю еду и далее по тексту. А остальные ждут прихода автобуса 4вд с вещами.

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А к моменту бродов наличие людей наоборот помогает. Ты видишь, где переходили реку предыдущие и насколько глубоким был брод. На втором броду мы снова пересеклись со вчерашними немцами, которые вдруг запереживали, что я хожу одна, и сказали, что спасут меня, если я упаду в воду))) шутники)).

После бродов тропа пошла по черно-серым пустынным вулканическим полям, и зеленых красок стало совсем мало. Разве что цветы остались. В том числе и какая-то мелкая лаванда (кстати, созвучно со словом лава). Хотя похожа она больше на чабрец, но очень пахнет лавандой.

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На одном из мостиков с нами поравнялось большое стадо местных лошадей, которых перегоняли куда-то. Как и описывают, их трухня (простите, бег трусцой :)) действительно отличается от трухни наших лошадок, круп почти не двигается, только ноги.

После 12 снова начался жуткий ветер, который нес с собой облака вулканической пыли и песка, и к кемпингу я опять подходила под начинающуюся пыльную бурю, с мыслями «как же в такой ветер ставиться?»

Но стоянки тут интересные, как оазис среди песка, небольшая ложбинка в низине у ручья поросла травой и борщевиком. В одной из таких низинок я и поставила свою палатку, успев еще до начала самого сильного ветра ее закрепить получше, в том числе подвалив юбку палатки камнями, а также положив большие булыжники внутрь палатки по углам, так как ее отрывало ветром из под дна.

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Но не все так просто. Даже этого было мало. Палатки гнуло и хлестало песком нещадно. С юбки срывало камню. Внутри было все закрыто, но тем не менее, в палатке все равно было всё в песке. Оставалось только ждать. И я ждала. Периодически выходя и проверяя цельность оттяжек и камней.
Через пару часов ветер начал стихать, немного накрапывал дождь… и я решила идти смотреть на каньон неподалеку. Не сидеть же дома! Главное, чтоб без меня палатку не унесло. Правда было непонятно, увижу ли я что-нибудь в эту пыльную завесу, да и мои немцы меня отговаривали, и я пошла на ресепшен кемпинга узнать, подходит ли такая погода для того, чтоб идти на каньон.

Ветер с силой бил деревянные створки двери ресепшена, откалывая от них щепки, и девушка сказала на мой вопрос: «О, это отличная погода! Наслаждайтесь и не думайте о погоде!» ))) И я пошла наслаждаться).

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Пока шла, ветер начал стихать еще активнее, а каньон оказался просто потрясающий!

Во время извержений вулканов тающие ледники отдают огромную массу воды, которая переполняя реки прорезает потрясающие ущелья. Эти ущелья были образованы реками несколько веков назад. Каньон гигантский. По стенкам текут водопады, по ущелью летают птицы. Но фотографиями этого не передать. Есть в нем что-то от начала истории. Насмотреться просто невозможно.

Вернувшись под впечатлением, я сварила ужин и рано, около 20:00 уже легла спать.

Выработала новую тактику, перед сном кипятить воду и заливать термос на утро. Так с утра экономится время на готовку, так как обычно утром я ем бутерброды и не варю. И вообще термос очень экономил не только время, но и газ. Готовя ужин можно сразу закипятить литр, из которого поллитра отлить в термос, где он не остынет до конца ужина, когда дойдет время до чая, а в остальных поллитрах готовить еду. Никогда не ездила с термосом, но так делать мне понравилось. А в дорогу я его не наполняла. В дороге обычную прохладную воду пить я люблю больше.

30 июля - Ботнар – Торсмёрк (Басар), радиальный выход на вершину Рефтафелл и в каньон реки Кросса.  Деревья!

С утра от вчерашней непогоды не осталось и следа. Светило солнце, и оказалось, что отсюда открывается чудесный вид на ледник, который вчера был закрыт пылевым туманом.

А теперь пару слов о том, что такое сильный ветер)

Сильный ветер, это когда ты ставишь котелок с водой на деревянную приступку, а ветром его передвигает сразу на 3 метра. Не уносит. Передвигает.
Сильный ветер, это когда 4 уличных умывальника вряд. И струю воды из крайнего сносит в умывальник через один! и самое веселое при этом умыться и выплюнуть зубную пасту изо рта в свою раковину)).

P1220061  P1220073

Но погода была отличная! Как хорошо, что я не на велосипеде)))

Вышла на тропу я уже в 8 утра, раньше большинства треккеров. Еще вчера, во время радиалки на каньон я видела, как живописно тропа огибает ущелье, а теперь к этому еще добавился вид на ледники.

Чтобы пересечь ущелье, надо пройти по трем мостикам над бурной рекой. Мостики крепкие, а вот спуск к ним настолько крутой и скользкий, что тут кинута веревка, и она совсем не лишняя, когда ты под рюкзаком.

P1220092  P1220104

Тропа обогнула ущелье, и после двух дней вулканических пейзажей начались мягкие зеленые долины с журчащими ручьями. Почти Алтай. Так приятно видеть зелень.

Но она возникала постепенно. Сначала пошел борщевик, потом началась карликовая ива и березка, а потом и вовсе встретилось дерево! Она меня так удивило, что я его даже сфотографировала.

Чем ниже я спускалась, тем больше становилось деревьев, и к Торсмёрку после большого широкого брода начался уже практически лес с травой, цветами и грибами. Листья правда на деревьях были как у карликовых, но все равно это были деревья!

P1220115  P1220117

В долине Торсмёрк несколько кемпингов. Два из них, самые популярные, на ближней стороне реки. Их плюс,- от них есть радиальная тропа на популярный каньон, и есть кафешки. А еще один кемпинг Басар – на другой стороне реки в 4км отсюда, его минус – вы останетесь без вида популярного каньончика (но увидите два других красивее и уединенней), и надо перейти реку и протопать еще немного. Но зато это экономит целый час времени от завтрашнего сложного и длинного перехода через перевал. И это и есть главная причина, почему я отправилась туда. А еще он дешевле.

P1220126  P1220127

А еще тут стоянки прям в лесу под деревьями! И туалет и умывальник в тёплом помещении, что не маловажно для этой страны.
Река тут разливается на несколько рукавов. Для перехода самых крупных из них ставят мосты на колесах. Очень практичные сооружения! И только последние пару рукавчиков преодолеваются ногами вброд.

Пришла я в Басар изрядно уставшая. Оставила аккумулятор на зарядку, поставила палатку, сварила покушать, и увидела столбик начала каких-то троп. А так как душе как всегда всегда мало, отправилась расспрашивать про них на ресепшен. Пожилая тётя-администратор просто расцвела «Как хорошо, что вы спрашиваете! Они очень и очень живописны!».

P1220134  P1220173

И я отправилась искать эту живопись. Не сидеть же на месте до вечера.

Тот, что говорит, что в Исландии много туристов, просто не там ходит! Никого! Вообще никого! Причем тропы то непростые, не очень подготовленные и не особо маркированные. Но то, что я увидела, я не ожидала.

P1220213  P1220232

Сначала я отправилась на самую дальнюю. Она, перевалив через небольшой холм, вышла к долине реки, точнее к ее каньону, точнее это было сразу три каньона – два сливались в один и уходили большее широким проходом вниз в долину. Узенькая-узенкая, кое-где немного сыпучая тропка шла по одному из бортов долины, еще освещенной низким вечерним солнцем. Пейзажи были необыкновенными и не по-исландски мягкими, зелеными, из добрых сказок. Нагулявшись вдоволь, я вернулась и вышла на еще одну тропу, ведущую на господствующую вершину. Эта тропка была совсем суровенькой по уклону. Технически она не сложная, но даже без рюзкака меня с нее стаскивает вниз, ботинки не держат поверхность. Так что вверх я забралась резвенько, а вот спускалась очень небыстро, кое-где пользуясь протянутыми перилами для поддержки.

P1220242  P1220259

А виды сверху отличные. Вся долина и ледник как на ладони!

Права была пожилая администратор, обрадовавшаяся что хоть кто-то пойдет полюбуется этой красотой.

В лагерь я вернулась уже к 9 вечера, и поужинав довольная легла спать. Завтра обещают дождь, и как оно там будет на леднике я не знаю. Но подумаю об этом завтра.


31 июля. Торсмёрк - Скогар.  День "не! плохой" погоды.

Утро ничего хорошего не предвещало. Вчерашние добрые языки ледников сегодня смотрелись зловеще. Я еще раз порадовалась, что вчера сэкономила себе одну ходку, дойдя до Басара, позавтракала, и уже в 7:45 вышла на тропу, предварительно спросив у мальчика на ресепшене про погоду.

Вообще в Исландии так много зависит от погоды, что кемпинги вывешивают ее прогноз каждый день, и карту ветров.

P1220271  P1220282

На мой вопрос, парень посмотрел в компьютер. Экран показывал наверху +6 и ветер около 12м/с, и обложной дождь на весь день. Я спросила: это для этого перехода плохая погода? Парень сказал: «Нет, это не плохая. Это довольно тепло!»
Так что этот день у меня вошел в мой дневник как «день не плохой погоды») писать раздельно! Потому что неплохая и не плохая – это две большие разницы))

P1220299  P1220303

Почти сразу от лагеря начались подъемы, и подъемы были суровые. По пути я догнала пару из своих знакомых немцев. Еще двое постарше решили объехать на автобусе. Но и эта пара в итоге почти перед самым выходом на ледник развернулась вниз.

По мере набора становилось все холоднее и начинал сгущаться туман. Кое-где в узких и крутых местах была провешена веревка, и она снова была очень кстати.

P1220304  P1220320

Туман стал периодически переходить в дождь, но видимости это не добавляло, и когда я вышла на снег, она упала до критичных величин, когда было только-только видно следующую вешку тропы, и помогали следы на снегу, хотя кое-где встречались развилки. Одной было идти неуютно. Хотя пару-тройку раз мне попадались встречные люди.

P1220308  P1220311

И вот вроде бы я уже набрала положенные 800метров, но спуск все никак не начинался, тропа все резала и резала холмы, в тумане и под ливнем, периодически выходя на небольшие участки открытого льда, к счастью совсем не опасные. Идти по снежной каше довольно энергозатратно, а в тумане – нервно, хотелось побыстрей отсюда сбежать, и я ждала хижины, чтоб погреться в ней и прийти немного в себя.
Но когда я наконец-то увидела хижину, из нее вышла пара в рюкзаках с яркими красными накидками, и я решила, что «нафиг хижину, пойду с ними рядом, так спокойнее», и поторопилась догонять. К этому времени туман совсем обнаглел, но зато тропа пошла вниз. В районе моста мы ее правда чуть не потеряли, но общими усилиями вырулили. Дело в том, что тут начинается вездеходная дорога, и она тоже идет в Скогар, но некрасиво. А еще идет тропа, вдоль водопадиков и перекатов реки Скога, красивая безумно! Но сейчас льет как из ведра, и есть ли разница? Но мы выходим именно на тропу, и это замечательно.

P1220326  P1220328

У первого же огромного водопада мои попутчики даже не останавливаются оглянуться. А я замешкалась. Доставать фотик под такой водой – это конечно ужас. Но ёлки-палки, как это не запечатлеть? И я решила, ну их нафиг, попутчиков, а я буду фотать, благо и видимость улучшается.
Прицелилась, сделала кадр, и фотоаппарат сообщил «карта заполнена». Ну да конечно. Менять флешку под дождем - самое оно! Перекрестив её, вытаскиваю из мешочка пустую. Живи, милая!

Азарт ударил в кровь, сил прибавилось, а водопады начались чуть ли не каждые 400 метров, да какие! Я никогда не видела таких красивых! И принялась снимать видео. Фильтр пришлось снять. Одеть бленду, вытирать объектив от капель пальцами, и надеется, что японцы на это рассчитывали, когда делали этот фотик)).

P1220332  P1220346

К низу усталость все ж серьезно накатывает, и голод тоже. Но посидеть негде, все мокрое премокрое, и сразу мерзнешь. Но дождик становится тише.
Ближе к Скогару начинают встречаться туристы-матрасники, отправившиеся погулять. Но они какие-то не на волне, не наши, не здороваются даже, а тем временем начинается длинная лестница вниз к стоянке и к кемпингу.

Последний час я думала: ну вот до сих пор миновала меня эта участь, а теперь таки придется ставится под дожем. Но нет, как только я спускаюсь дождь полностью стихает. Вокруг водища! Но как только я подхожу к кемпинговым площадкам, снимаются люди с палаткой, и я встаю на их сухое место. Везет!

Первое, что я делаю после установки палатки – кипяток, завариваю кисель, режу сыр – пью кисель и ем хлеб, сыр и печенье. Надо срочно восполнять потери и поднимать сахар. Самый длинный и трудный день трека позади, ура!

А главное, больше я не буду ходить под рюкзаком в этом походе!

P1220374  P1220380

Уже через час я была в сухом и теплом, в животике теплилась еда, термос с чаем был заварен и ждал, когда я опять проголодаюсь.
А за палаткой снова накрапывало, и кто-то стал напевать женским голосом совсем рядом. Я выглянула. Молодая женщина ставила палатку-однушку. Уставшая, мокрая и измученная, как я час назад. Я вылезла с горячим чаем, сыром и конфетами и напоила-накормила, помогла доставить палатку. Тем временем рядом еще одна девушка стала ставить палатку одна, на этот раз машинная туристка. Ох уж эти девушки).

Женщина пешеходница оказалась бельгийкой, социологом, а девушка – американкой, танцовщицей. Наверное так мог бы начинаться какой-нть анекдот, встретились бельгийка, американтка и русская, или социолог, программист и танцовщица, и все три с палатками под исландским дождем.
Поставившись, они решили пойти обедать в ресторан, и позвали меня с собой, за вайфаем. Я, соскучившись по людям, согласилась, и пошла пить свой какао. Вайфай правда там почти не работал. А что меня поразило, так это разговоры моих попутчиц. 20 минут незнакомые женщины весь вечер проговорили о мужчинах и на интимные темы. Не о походах, и увлечениях, нет, о том, о чем как-то обычно и не говорят. Ну да бывает).

Из забавного, я не взяла из дома зажигалку – нельзя в самолет. Но у меня были спички для горелки. Так вот в исландском климате они плоховато горят, и у меня осталось их две! И я рисковала. Хорошо, что тут есть маленький магазинчик. Я купила зажигалку и ручку, теперь я могу делать записи, так как свою ручку я потеряла в первый день. Так тоже бывает. Хорошо что не штаны, потому что бывало и такое)).

1 августа. Вик. Тупики.

Утром рядом с водопадом стоял густой туман. Зато народу никого, и я отправляюсь его сфотографировать с привычного ракурса, суровый и прямолинейный.

Вообще кемпинги заполнены вечерами, а утром и днем могут быть довольно пустынны, а некоторые и вообще абсолютно пусты.

Сегодня я решила двигаться в Вик, неспешно поела овсянки, собрала вещи и, передвинувшись к остановке, услышала русскую речь. Оказалось, это та самая группа русских/украинцев, которых я угощала хреном!) Меня они запомнили не очень, а вот хрен запомнили. И они тоже едут в Вик! Ура)) мне есть с кем пообщаться.

Они угощают меня орешками и печеньем. Они только сегодня вышли с трека и выглядят еще уставшими.
В автобус мы сели вместе.

Казус был в том, что в автобусе не оказалось аппарата для расчета по карточкам, а у меня не было наличных крон, вообще! Я предложила рассчитаться мелкими евро, но парень, помощник водителя, отказался и сказал, что что-нибудь придумает. А когда мы приехали в Вик, он сказал: «мы сами виноваты, так что это будет для вас бесплатно, enjoy». Люблю Исландию! Но так как мне еще ехать назад в Рейкьявик, надо все ж найти, где взять наличку в этой деревне!

P1220389  P1220404

Кемпинг Вика расположен недалеко от автостанции и довольно комфортен, есть хорошая кухня, душ, место для сушки вещей, стиральная машина. Но погодка не очень, и к стирке и сушке не располагает.

P1220470  P1220477

Я ставлю палатку, и понимая, что русская группа сейчас гулять не пойдет, а будет варить обед, расспрашиваю у их гида про тропы и ухожу радиалить.
Сначала на городской пляж с тем самым знаменитым черны вулканическим песком, крикливыми крачками, симпатичными тупиками, и красивыми скалами «пальцы тролля». Нагулявшись, иду в магазин закупиться продуктами. Мой необходимый минимум: сосиски, сыр, хлеб, а также нахожу любимую фасоль в томате за 99крон! Ура! Это моя еда)

P1220454  P1220464

А дальше иду гулять на верхнюю тропу утеса, откуда открывается вид не только на «пальцы тролля», но и на соседний мыс Дирхолей. А также можно посмотреть на тупиков не снизу вверх, а сверху вниз. Чем я активно и результативно занимаюсь.

P1220501  P1220530

По пути назад в кемпинг я нашла банк, но он оказался закрыт, а в банкомате я снимать деньги побоялась. Приду сюда завтра до автобуса.
Вернувшись, я устроила себе сказочный перекус фасолью и вкусным хлебом с колбасками. Счастье! А потом душ!

А вечером еще одна прогулка до моря с украинскими ребятами, и долгие посиделки, на которых меня подкармливали помидорками и лососем, пока не начался дождь, разогнавший всех по палаткам, где уже в свете фонарика можно писать дневник.

2 августа. Вик – Рейкьявик. Солнечный вояжер.

С утра я позволила себе подольше поспать, сварила молочную лапшу, позавтракала, собрала все вещи кроме палатки, и отправилась мучить банк, который уже должен был открыться.

Банк расположен в одном здании с милицией и винным магазином, пока догадаешься как попасть внутрь, надо миновать кучу странных дверей. Но все получилось, и мне поменяли денег. Теперь я с кронами.

Вернувшись, я собрала палатку и отправилась на кухню ждать за вайфаем автобуса, а до него было еще три часа.
Украинцы уехали пораньше в Ледниковую лагуну, где я собираюсь заканчивать велосипедную часть, если всё пойдет хорошо. В общем поболтать мне снова стало не с кем.

P1220542  P1220553

Автобус пришел вовремя и с уже знакомым водителем. Я купила в дорогу сендвичей перекусить, так как только в 18:30 мы были у кемпинга. Народу в кемпинге просто тьма! Намного больше, чем когда мы уезжали.

Еле нашла свободное место приткнуться. Поставила палатку и принялась собирать велосипед. На удивление, он доехал целый. Не зря я его в этот раз так бережно паковала.

Из забавного: иду по кемпингу, никого не трогаю, мимо проходит парень со словами «о! свои! С праздничком». Минуту туплю, как он понял, что я «своя», и с каким таким праздничком. И тут понимаю, что я в тельняшке! )) не узнать в человеке в тельняшке русскоговорящего почти невозможно, еще и в день ВДВ)).

P1220555  P1220597

Собрала велосипед. Посидела немного на кухне, от обилия народа там даже вайфая почти нет.

И поехала кататься на велике. Ну и что, что уже 22 часа. Белые ночи ж!

И отлично покаталась по велодорожке вдоль набережной. Ехала на свет маяка. До него и доехала. Заодно посмотрев на разные красивые и необычные исландские жилые домики, на порт и корабли, на знаменитого «солнечного вояжера», который оказался как раз в закатных лучах словно сияющий символ всех, что отваживается отправляться в путешествия и в неизвестность. Наконец-то я в седле! Все-таки ничто не дает такого чувства свободы, как велосипед.

Вернулась в кемпинг в 23:20, поужинала и легла спать. Завтра дневка.

3 августа. Дневка в Рейкьявике.

На сегодня цель была одна – купить билет до Акурейри на меня с велосипедом, для чего я отправилась в центральный офис компании Стерна в концертный зал Харпа. Так как для решения дел велосипедных так надежнее.
Билет мне продали. Но предупредили, что посадка с великом не гарантирована. И они вправе отказать, если не будет мест, и вернут деньги. Невесело, но я знала, что тут такие порядки.

P1220602  P1220610

Пока гуляла по городу, закупилась конфетками и печеньками в дорогу, зашла в тур.инофрмацию, где набрала хороших бесплатных карт.
В кемпинге я перепаковала вещи, оставив лишние в походном рюкзаке и сдав его в камеру хранения.

Читать отчет о велосипедной части похода >>

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