09 Фев 2018

Ларнака - мыс Греко - Фамагуста - Саламис - замок Кантара - Киренейский хребет - Гирне - Помос - Полис - полуостров Акамас - ущелье Авакос - Пафос - Лимассол - Агьос Мамос - горы Троодос - Кало Хорио - Лангея - Ларнака

Всё, чего не хватило мне в Исландии, - это я получила на Кипре. Горы, море и сосновые леса - беспроигрышное сочетание для здоровья и удовольствия от велотуризма.  2017й год начинался у меня с моря, в середине тоже были морЯ, и завершить его тоже хотелось на море. 

Фактический график движения по маршруту:

kipr-plan

трек похода

Участники:

Светлана Глушкова (Барнаул) - руководитель самой себя

Карта похода (схематично, трек информативней):

kipr-map

 


24 декабря. Перелет в Ларнаку

Перелеты прошли без происшествий, разве что рейс с Москвы задержали на час из-за чистки полосы от снега. В Ларнаке оперативно получила багаж, прошла контроль и принялась собирать велосипед, на что ушло около часа. Наблюдал за этим местный таксист, который оказался очень добрым и заботливым. Сказал что по мне видно, как я люблю свой велосипед, на сколько четко и слаженно все делаю), купил мне соку в дорогу, рассказал как выехать с ближайшей развязки и сказал, что надеется увидеть меня на обратном пути. А еще говорят, что все таксисты плохие. А видать не все!

Выехала из аэропорта я еще засветло, но вскоре начало стремительно темнеть и начался очень сильный дождь. Особенно тяжко было в темноте и под дождем в городе, где машин было много, тротуаров мало, а мне приходилось часто останавливаться, чтоб сориентироваться.

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Свою забронированную гостиницу тем не менее я нашла, но она оказалась закрыта). Это было не самым приятным событием в дождь и в рождественский вечер). На мой настойчивый стук открыли дети, которые оказались русскими, но не хозяйскими, и ничего не знали, тоже жили в одном из номеров. Но по крайней мере они запустили меня внутрь. А мне пришлось звонить на кипрский номер хозяину, который на чистом английском объяснил мне что оставил ключ от моего номера в пожарном ящике перед входом, и дал другие указания). Я дома! Ура!

Итак, сегодня вечер перед рождеством, и завтра все магазины будут закрыты, а сегодня супермаркеты работают до 19, и так как мне обязательно нужен газ, первым делом я иду до АлфаМеги, где успеваю до закрытия купить и газ, и адаптер для местных розеток, и необходимые продукты на первые пару-тройку дней похода и на вечер.

После возвращения перекусываю и иду на набережную здороваться с морем.

На набережной тихо и спокойно. Работают полупустые карусели, полупустые ресторанчики. Но даже музыки нигде не играет. Все же основная часть горожан празднуют Рождество дома.

25 декабря. Ларнака – мыс Греко, 54.77км, 4:00 чхв

Утром я дала себе поспать. Вставать совсем не хотелось и я тянула до последнего. Около 9 утра я все ж поднялась, но все равно ощущения, что отдохнула, не было. Сказывались последние бессонные ночи перед отлетом из дома.

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Заварила себе овсянки и киселя, списалась с хозяевами, чтобы оставить сумку до моего возвращения, позавтракала и около 10:30 выехала.
Погода была просто чудесная, а дорога приятной и практически без машин даже в населенных пунктах. В один момент дорога уходит с основной трассы ближе к морю и становится грунтовой. То тут то там вдоль нее стоят стульчики и временные навесы, видать рыбацкие. Иногда встречаются люди, которые в рождественский выходной выехали погулять.

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Когда грунтовка начала портиться и становиться все грязней и грязней, я ушла с нее назад на асфальт, и выехала в Аянапу, зацепив по дороге кусочек огородов и пару добросовестных собак.

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После Аянапы я ухожу направо на живописную пешеходную тропу, выложенную брусчаткой и идущую почти что вдоль берега. Тропа очень красивая, обсаженная пальмами, с лавочками и местами для отдыха, и практически пустая она тянется довольно долго. Но потом она переходит в обычную каменистую тропку, по которой я проковыриваюсь до какого-то симпатичного грота, после которого я выбираюсь снова наверх на дорогу, где попадаю на велодорожку, ныряющую вглубь мыса Греко мимо его достопримечательных мест – какой-то красивой локоничной церквушки с гротом, моста грешников. У церкви набираю воды и уезжаю на кемпинговую площадку неподалеку.

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Еще около 15:00. До заката 2 часа, и я перекусив, одевшись потеплей и оставив велосипед иду гулять по тропе на дальний мыс.
Тропки приятные, но до дальнего мыса дойти не успеваю, начинает смеркаться и я возвращаюсь обратно. Люди тем временем уезжают с площадки, а я ставлю палатку, умываюсь и принимаюсь варить гречку, решив, что на мысе Греко надо непременно ужинать гречкой).

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После ужина почти сразу укладываюсь, так как что еще делать в темноте?

Но засыпаю все равно только около 9 вечера. В этом походе это станет нормой.

26 декабря. Мыс Греко – Фамагуста – Саламис – роща у моря, 59,4км, 4:10чхв.

Погода снова была великолепной, что для этого времени года было просто подарком.

В 6 утра начинало светать и к 7 утра полностью рассветало. Где-то около 7 я и поднялась. А в 8:30 выехала.

От кемпинговой площадки, чтоб не ехать по асфальту большой объезд, я поднимаюсь к дороге по довольно крутой грунтовке. Наверху меня встречает небольшой кусочек отличной узенькой велодорожки, но вскоре она заканчивается, выходя на трассу. Но трафик на трассе маленький и едется очень спокойно.

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По дороге начала люфтить передняя втулка, а я оставила конусный ключ в сумке в Ларнаке. У какой-то церквушки останавливаюсь и затягиваю ее руками, а назад колесо поставить на груженый велик никак не выходит – рук не хватает. Мне смеясь помогает старенький дедушка, идущий из церкви, который увидел мою проблему).

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Границу перед Фамагустой прохожу спокойно. Просто смотрят паспорт и куда-то записывают. Даже никакой бумажки со штампом мне не дали.
Турция встретила меня забитыми дорогами. Тут рождества нет – рабочий день. На въезде в банке меняю немного денег на местные лиры.
В Фамагусту я приехала в обед. Издали посмотрела на Варош, и ближе не поехала. Тяжелое ощущение. Вспомнила танки вдоль дорог на Памире, туристы на их фоне фотографируются, а надо бы плакать, знай они что там творилось.

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Улочки старой Фамагусты забиты туристами, лавочками и ресторанчиками. Всё обойдя, сажусь обедать в кафе. Порция пасты огромна, и я ем ее очень не торопясь, заодно отдыхая.

После обеда я проезжаю совсем немного до дырки в заборе с отметкой «Салямис» - это развалины древнего города. Не знаю, где туда центральный вход, но тут по идее тоже какой-то вход, но машинный въезд закрыт, а узкая калитка открыта, туда я и протискиваюсь с великом и отправляюсь колесить по большому и симпатичному парку, осматривая остатки амфитеатров, колонных залов, мощёных улиц.

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Нагулявшись, выезжаю в том же месте, где въехала.

От Саламиса никак не могу выехать на какую-нть нормальную маленькую дорожку, и ехать приходится по трассе с разделительной полосой посередине, которую так просто не пересечь, если тебе надо направо. А мне туда как раз скоро надо к морю, так как скоро на ночевку, и при первой возможности на кольце я ухожу на правую сторону дороги на обочину, и свернув мимо какого-то коттежного поселка, выезжаю в небольшую рощицу вдоль моря.

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Рощица правда вся состоит из колючек, а дорога по ней песчаная, так что я рискую заколоться и еду аккуратно. На первом съезде стоят рыбаки, а вот второй съезд подальше – свободен, и пройдя от него еще немного вдоль берега, чтоб меня не побеспокоили, селюсь на отличной полянке без колючек.

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Время еще нет и 15, и можно насладиться тёплым солнцем, морем, а потом и закатом.

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Закат был прекрасен. Плескалась рыбка, на отмелях играли стайки уточек, на горизонте проплывали большие корабли. Я снова буду спать под шум прибоя!

27 декабря. Киренейский хребет – замок Кантара – трейл В – пикник зона на спуске с перевала, 56.3км, 5:28чхв.

В 7 утра по берегу прошел человек с собакой, и я поняла, что пора просыпаться, а как всегда было лень. Ночь была очень влажная и утром небо было в дымке, так что палатка до отъезда просохнуть не успела.

Как всегда трудно позавтракала, собралась и выехала в 8:20 утра.

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10км трассы меня задолбали. Справа красивый берег, но я еду слева, а посередине разделитель, и туда не перебраться – тоска! Но скоро тоска закончилась, так как я свернула с нее налево в сторону Киренейского хребта, и дорога стала узеньким асфальтом шириной в одну машинку. Красота!

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Правда ветер дует встречный, но вполне терпимый.

В малюсенькой кафешке в последней деревне заказываю кофе у пожилого турка. Это лучший эспрессо в моей жизни. Турки знают толк в кофе! Подают с водой, но хозяин приносит мне еще бутылку 0.5 воды, в подарок.

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В перевал поднимаюсь довольно бодро. Наверху кафешка не работает, и я в раздумьях ищу, где же я буду набирать воду на обратном пути с Кантары, людей никого. В итоге разобравшись с системой водопровода на одном из огородов, заставляю краник дать мне воды. И еду в Кантару увы груженая, так как рюкзак оставлять негде, а так хотелось. 3км сначала с горки, потом в горку. Учитывая, что я уже к этом моменту минимум 600 метров набрала – к замку я устала.

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Наверху автобусы с пожилыми иностранцами, через одного с костылями.

Я не пожилая, поэтому мне продают билет как студенту за 5лир, около 1евро.

Мне крепость очень понравилась, хотя бы тем, что виды оттуда просто потрясающие!

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Но вот отдохнуть тут не получилось, так как лавочки заняты пенсионерами с костылями, и я возвращаюсь назад 3км на вершину перевала, сажусь там кушать и тут приходят они – кошки!

Я себе точно испортила карму, так как ниодного не покормила. Надеюсь, я не стану в следующей жизни уличным котом)

Поев, около 13:30 я отправилась дальше по дороге по хребту.

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Сначала идет отличный пустой асфальт с очень хорошими видами то на одну, то на другую сторону хребта. Вокруг сосны. Внизу море.
Добралась до точки предполагаемой ночевки, но вставать еще рановато, и я решаю ехать дальше, трейловым участком с пометкой «В» и указателем «перевал 16.7км».

Эти 16.7км дались уже не легко, и усталость накопилась, и дорожка пошла каменистая. И хоть ноги и едут, а организм устал. Скорость невысокая и я понимаю, что такими темпами дальше перевала я не уеду. Поднимается ветер и холодает. Утепляюсь.

Но все трудности компенсируются офигенными видами узкой горной дорожки утопающей в вечернем солнце.

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И вот наконец начинается спуск. Но даже он меня не очень радует, так как сильно каменистый, а я очень заголодала и не могу сосредоточится, и в очередном очень красивом месте дороги сажусь слопать пару овсяных батончиков, припасенных из дома. И жизнь сразу налаживается, хоть солнышко и намекает на скорый конец дня. А я спускаюсь с мыслью, что в конце спуска надо обязательно искать место для ночлега. Но оно находит меня само, так как спуск приводит меня равнехонько в большую пикник-зону. Она выглядет страшновато и немного «разбомблено», но туалет работает и в кране есть вода. А большего мне и не нужно.

Прячусь за одной из стен от ветра, развешиваю на ветру палатку для скоростной просушки, и начинаю готовить ужин. К 17 часам темнеет, но у меня уже стоит палатка и кипит вода под пюрешку с сосиской. А потом я споласкваюсь, чищу зубы и очень очень рано укладываюсь.

Хоть меня и прикрывает от ветра стена, но масса чужих звуков настораживает, так что ночь спокойной видимо не будет. Главное, чтоб не приехали охотники. Их я сегодня видела на хребте довольно много, с ружьями и собаками. Из-за камуфляжа и оружия они похожи на военных. Но стреляют исключительно в рябчиков)

28 декабря. Киренейский хребет – Гирне, 68км, 6:12чхв.

Ночь была сухой и теплой из-за ветра. И меня к счастью так никто и не побеспокоил. Сегодня у меня снова узенькие лесные дорожки, иногда грунтовые, иногда асфальтовые. На некоторых участках в лесу на дорожках видны лужи, видать ночью тут все ж локально прошел дождь. Дорожки идут из перевала в перевал, и расслабится особо не дают.

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Моя сегодняшняя локальная цель – это хребет Пять Пальцев. На чужих фотографиях он меня почему-то абсолютно не впечатлил. А в жизни оказался очень живописным, особенно в совокупности с той красивой дорожкой, которая проходит вдоль него.

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Дорожка эта выходит к трассе, которая спускается к морю и уже вдоль моря идет в Гирне. Но мне еще рано расставаться с Киренейским, и я ухожу еще одной грунтовкой в еще один перевал, чтоб спуститься к Гирне сверху.

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По пути встречаю место, где турки выложили на горе свой флаг огромных размеров, а внизу стоит разрушенная православная церковь. И вот вроде люблю я мусульманские страны, и хорошо отношусь к любым народностям. Но все ж при виде разрушенного храма что-то внутри ёкает и сопротивляется. Все же не храмы надо рушить и флаги рисовать, а прибраться в собственной стране… К слову сказать, на греческой стороне Кипра разрушенных мечетей я не встречала, а вот работающие видела.

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Ну да ладно. У каждой страны своя история, и не нам ее судить.

А я миновав последний затяжной тягун, ушла на крутой спуск к городу, очень уставшая, но довольная своему перевыполненному плану и намереваясь найти в Гирне гостиницу.

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Но все вышло еще лучше. Внизу я встретила на улице пару людей на велосипедах, которые обрывали лимоны, и завидев меня поприветствовали «Привееет!» как будто знали меня всю жизнь. Они семейная пара Лена и Благомир, и малышка Мия в слинге. Живут тут по каучсерфингу в пустой вилле, куда позвали переночевать и меня, и я конечно согласилась.

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Поэтому вечер мой прошел в разговорах за очень вкусным ужином, и ночью на диване у камина у живого огня.

29 декабря. Гирне – оливковая роща, 49,4км, 3:32чхв.

Под мерный треск дров в камине спалось просто чудесно. Учитывая что я наконец-то чистая и помытая, отдохнула я хорошо. Несколько раз за ночь подкидывала дровишки, даже не столько потому что было холодно, а чтоб продлить это удовольствие от живого огня.

В 7:15 я проснулась и начала собирать вещи. В это время проснулись Лена с Мией и вышли меня проводить. Я позавтракала вкусным турецким пирогом с кофе (когда еще у меня будет такой вкусный завтрак!?) и в 8:15 выехала, взяв курс на центр Гирне, до которого было еще 4км. Там находится порт и крепость. Место очень приятное, со своим характером и колоритом.

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А вот трасса на выезде из города очень загруженная и мне она совсем не нравится. Но что делать. Затем дорога поворачивает в горы и машин становится намного меньше, начинается хвойный лес, подъем в перевал и становится очень жарко. И едется почему-то так себе. На грунтовках мне ехалось ито легче, чем по этому асфальту.

P1240644  P1240657

На вершине перевала деревушка, а ней маленькая кафешка, а время всего 11 утра, при том, что до места ночевки уже не далеко. И я сажусь выпить кофе.

А дальше еще немного и поворот на оливковую рощу. Сама роща оказывается за забором с колючей проволокой, что слегка вводит меня в замешательство: зачем всё так серьезно? Ворота закрыты, но не на замке. Так что я вхожу внутрь и ухожу на дальний конец, где встаю в чудесном месте на хвое под соснами, рядом с каналом с водой.

Время еще нет и 14 часов. Так что у меня полудневка.

P1240686  P1240686 1

Я смазываю цепь велика, потом мою голову и моюсь сама, стираюсь по мелочам, и сажусь перекусить конс.фасолью и хлебом с сыром.

Вокруг начинают ходить тучи, но на меня падает всего 2 капли. И я иду на осмотр старейших олив, которым по 500-800 лет. В отчетах других это место не произвело на меня впечатление, а в жизни очень понравилось. Величественные мудрые деревья, при этом тёплые, совсем не грозные.

Прогулявшись возвращаюсь пить чай со сладостями. На сегодня моя программа выполнена, осталось чем-нть занять себя до сна.

30 декабря. Оливковая роща – граница – Помос, 79км, 6:04чхв

Под утро все ж пошел дождь, причем довольно сильный, но к 7 утра он прекратился и дал мне встать, собраться и выехать. И я мирно поползла в перевал. Сегодня их было несколько некрупных до границы. Некоторые были даже немного нелогичны. Вроде можно было проложить дорогу вдоль моря, но она упрямо идет по хребту с хорошим набором высоты.

Через час движения снова набегают тяжелые тучи, и начинается ливень с ветром. Успеваю натянуть дождевые штаны и накидку на рюкзак, и еду под дождем, выискивая глазами крышу, под которой его переждать. Но пока я ее искала, дождь начал стихать и я поехала дальше, обсыхая по пути.

В одном их маленьких городков вкусно пообедала кебабом. Все ж с обедом гораздо больше шансов уехать подальше. А у меня сегодня в планах снова перевыполнить план и от от границы попробовать дотянуть сразу до Полиса через перевал.

P1240697  P1240701

Но пока что после обеда меня накрывает второй, уже более серьезный дождь на вершине очередного перевала. Его мне пришлось пережидать в остановке около 30 минут, прикрываясь от ветра и косых струй. Иногда мне казалось, что меня сдует вместе с остановкой. На этот случай рядом был домик, куда я придумала попроситься, если это случится. Но все обошлось, и дождь снова стих.

Третий дождь случился после спуска с этого же перевала. И в этот раз я просто заехала в чей-то огород под крышу гаража)) и на меня никто не ругался).

Но чем ближе я подъезжала к границе, тем небо становилось чище и тем меньше оставалось на дорогах машин.

Границу прошла спокойно. После неё встретила жующего бутерброд иностранца, который узнав, что я из России, сказал : в прошлый раз, когда я встретил девушку одну на велосипеде – она тоже была из России))).

P1240710  P1240710 1

А после границы настал еще один перевал, на этот раз большой и основательный, и пришлось изрядно поупираться на подъеме даже на 1:1, в том числе и потому что поднялся очень сильный ветер, который на спуске стал таким сильным, что быстро спускаться совсем не получалось, и мои надежды доехать засветло до Полиса таяли на глазах.

Еще больше они растаяли, когда я спустилась вниз и увидела тяжелый затянутый горизонт, на котором явно льёт, и усиливающийся ветер, который не давал набрать скорость на холмистой дороге вдоль моря.

Около 16 часов я дотянула до поселка Помос, до Полиса оставалось еще около 16км, но было ощущение, что вот-вот польет и начнется шторм. Встать у берега в такую погоду тут довольно проблематично, да и мест пустых почти нет, и я принялась искать где заночевать. Но гостиниц тут нет, только аппартоменты, это надо звонить по телефонам, звонить не хочется.

Рядом с одной из кофейен я вижу вывеску «комнаты в аренду» и захожу внутрь спросить у хозяина. Апартоменты не очень любят сдавать одиночке на 1 ночь, но я-то лучше чем никого). Хозяин кофейни долго с кем-то созванивается и в конце концов называет мне вполне приемлимую цену. А у меня и выбора особо нет.

И мы едем около 1км назад. Он на пикапе, я на велосипеде следом.

P1240718  P1240720

И вот, как только мы заходим в домик, приходит шторм, срывающий листву с пальм, подымающий волны, и в итоге перешедший в ливень. Но я уже под крышей и смотрю на это сквозь балконное окно. Успела!

А тем временем жена хозяина успела собрать мне фруктов и пирога!

Хозяин уезжает, а я остаюсь пить чай с пирогом, довольная отличным днем и удачным его завершением.

Судя по прогнозу погода на Кипре меняется вместе с цифрой года на календаре, и пока что ничего хорошего меня не ждёт. Но я подумаю об этом завтра.

31 декабря. Помос – Полис, радильно до ванны Афродиты, 41км, 2:45 чхв.

Утро было хмурым, но шторма уже не было. И пока я собиралась, не было и дождя. Но в 8:30 он пошел. Но так как перспективы, что он закончится, не наблюдалось, я выехала под дождем. Заехала к хозяевам отдать ключи, а они напоили меня кофе, накормили пирогом и дали в дорогу целый мешок мандарин и апельсин. Приятно!

P1240720 1  P1240726 1

А я выехала дальше, и дождь полил просто сплошной стеной. По дороге реками текла вода, и хорошо что хоть машин не было. По козырьку кепки тек ручеек, а я ехала и думала: нормальным людям которые сейчас дома в тепле режут оливье и остужают шампанское, такую картинку нового года лучше не показывать). Я въехала под этим ливнем в пустынный Полис, нашла гостиницу с очень радушными и заботливыми хозяевами, которые сразу же напоили меня горячим кофе, и даже не волновались, что я замочу одеждой стулья.

P1240723  P1240726 2

А потом я долго и не торопясь селилась, приходила в себя, распаковывала и вывешивала сушить вещи. За это время дождь подстих, и пока я еще была в мокрых ботинках, решила сходить погуляться и закупить продукты к новому году – овощи, авакадо, салями, спагетти.

P1240732  P1240734
За это время сквозь тучи начало прорезаться солнышко, и я решила что нечего сидеть киснуть, надо ехать радиалить на ванны Афродиты через деревню Лачи. Хуже чем был, дождя уже все равно не будет.

P1240735  P1240742 1

И я поехала. Сначала добралась до городского кемпинга, в котором сейчас стояло просто болото. Отсюда начилась узкая приятная дорожка вдоль моря до самой Лачи, где я полюбовавшись на кораблики, выехала на асфальт и домчалась до стоянки у ванн Афродиты, где пристегнула велик и пошла гулять.

P1240742  P1240757

Сначала до ванн. Они ничем не примечательны, но все ж местечко приятное. Там даже живет какая-то рыбка-угорь). Её наверняка зовут Афродита)).

P1240765  P1240768 1

Оттуда я ушла тропой Диониса на ближайшую гору. Тропа была безумно раскисшая и грязная. И я даже хотела развернуться, но тут пошел мелкий камушек и идти стало легче, и я рада, что я пошла дальше. Потому что перемахнув мимо вершины, открываются просто потрясающие виды на весь полуостров Акамас, на его дождливую раскисшую сейчас дорогу, на сине-зеленые бухты средиземного моря. На спуске пару раз принимался дождик, но ни впечатления ни пейзажей он не испортил – сказочная дорожка.

P1240750  P1240777

Вернулась к велосипеду я к 16 часам. А уже в 16:45 была рядом с гостиницей, успев до заката. А потом салаты, ужин, разговоры с родными и друзьями.

P1240777 1  P1240777 3

Местного нового года я дождаться так и не смогла, и послушав поздравление призедента России по московскому времени срубилась спать. Потому что завтра у меня отнюдь не выходной.

 

1 января. Полис – п.о.Акамас – ущелье Авакас, 36км, 3:40чхв.

Утром жутко не хотелось вставать. Всё же 1 января, праздник как никак. Еле отковыряла себя с кровати в 7:30. Кстати вчера на обогревателе я высушила все промокшие вещи: носки, стельки, ботинки, промокший рюкзак и, конечно, Глашу.

Около часа я не торопясь собиралась и делала записи. Кошки на улице жалобно просили меня вынести им колбасы, но я снова была непоколебима)
В 8:30 я пошла завтракать. Завтрак был шикарен! Сок, кофе, вареные яйца, нарезка сыра и колбасы, масло, тосты, джем, в общем всё как я люблю) и столько, что доесть я та и не смогла. Зато на таком завтраке можно было ехать долго.

P1240783  P1240792

Поставив рекорд по самому позднему выезду похода, только около 9:20 я села на велосипед.

Вчерашняя разведка боем показала, что через фонтаны и кончик Акамаса лучше не ехать, там жуткая грязюка. И я решила объезжать его гравийным перевальчиком по трейловым маршрутам.

P1240793  P1240796

Подъем начался уже в городе, и сразу за Полисом началась узенькая асфальтовая дорожка, которая сначала перешла в бетонку, а потом стала плохонькой грунтовкой. Вокруг на холмах стоит множество овечковых ферм и территорий для выпасов. Уклоны у дороги не всегда гуманные, но сама она очень и очень симпатичная.

P1240805  P1240823

Когда зеленые поля и лужайки закончились, дорога зашла в лес, где стала земляной и немного грязноватой после вчерашних дождей, но не настолько, чтоб были трудности с проездом, зато очень ароматной и уютной. Она пересекла лес Акамаса и размашистыми серпантинами пошла вниз к морю, прорезая холмы. От красоты и удовольствия просто захватывало дух. Даже сам дальнейший проезд уже по берегу моря не впечатлил меня настолько, как этот перевал, точнее перевалы.

P1240841  P1240872

А внизу было тепло и сухо. Море красиво волновалось и было потрясающего сине-зеленого цвета. И я даже поехала в одних велотрусах, подставляя ноги теплому солнышку.

Около 14 часов не торопясь я доехала до поворота на ущелье Авакас, но сразу туда не поехала, а нагулялась по берегу, наелась мандаринок. Море сегодня штормовое, и огромные пенистые волны высотой с человеческий рост со всей страстью обрушиваются на берег, а ветер разносит мелкую морскую пыль. Этим можно любоваться вечно.

P1240890 1  P1240906

Налюбовавшись, я заехала наверх к началу тропы в ущелье, пристегнула велик и пошла не торопясь гулять. Зачем мне торопиться, если мне тут ночевать).

Ущелье мне понравилось. Оно одновременно и солнечное и таинственное, и хмурое и сказочное. Прошла я довольно далеко, но когда пейзаж перестал меняться, а ущелье стало все более заваленным камнями с моренного вала, то решила что хватит и развернулась.

Вернулась к велику я около 16 часов и пошла в большой обход окрестностей в поисках хорошей площадки под палатку.

Нашла хорошее место на дальних рубежах на нижней дороге у ручья, но там было темновато, и не хотелось уезжать от чистой воды, ручей был грязный.

P1240930 1  P1240930

В итоге вернувшись к велику, я встала прям рядом с краником у стоянки рядом с кустами на единственной тут небольшой площадке без колючек, и не взирая на то, что тут еще было прилично выходящих из ущелья туристов). Пусть они меня смущаются, а не я их).

Зато успела до темноты и поставится, и сварить кашу и сделать салат из оставшихся с нового года овощей, покушать, и чай заварить, и даже штаны постирать от глины!).

А потом села на краю палатки наблюдать красивейший восход луны.

На последуюшие минимум три дня обещают очень плохую погоду, и поэтому в горы Троодоса я, скрепя сердцем, решила все же не ехать. На высоте в 1700метров в дождь со снегом и ветром делать нечего. Поэтому завтра у меня начинаются расслабленные дни городской импровизации, я буду выкатываться до Пафоса и дальше в Лимассол. А там жизнь покажет.

2 января. Авакас – Пафос, 26.3км, 1:54чхв

Утром я позавтракала, собралась и выехала около 8 утра. Торопиться мне было некуда, так как до Пафоса тут совсем немного, и я накручиваю петли вдоль берега, ориентируясь на мелкие дорожки в навигаторе. Но там тоже не особо интересно: стройки, виллы, банановые плантации, и все какое-то неприглядное и немного неухоженное. Может потому что зима, и жизнь тут сейчас совсем не кипит. На некоторых ресторанчиках висят вывески «Закрыто до пятницы». Эй, ребята! Сегодня только вторник! А на некоторых «Закрыто до весны» )). И хоть мне туда и не надо, все равно на душе как-то пусто от таких вывесок.

P1240932  P1240955

Над горами сегодня висят тяжелые грозовые тучи, но у побережья погода крепится и пробивается солнце. Уже около 11:30 я приезжаю к гесту, где у входа встречаю хозяйку. Гест страшненький, но мне много и не надо, и зато я тут одна. Заселяюсь, моюсь, развешиваю прям в номере сушиться свою ооочень мокрую палатку, неспешно готовлю на кухне обед, и только около 15 часов иду гулять.

Город мне не понравился. В порту шумно, суетно, кучи сувенирных лавочек и кафешек. Но если уйти подальше по длинной набережной в сторону от этой суеты, то можно остаться наедине с морем, его волнами, запахом и энергией.

Благомир в Гирне рассказывал мне, что он нашел и систематизировал 2000 эмоций. Но мне кажется вот эту жидкую эмоцию, не похожу ни на что, он забыл – Море.

P1240965 1  P1240965

Если бы я знала, что примерно в 15км от Пафоса есть отличные места для стоянок на берегу, и что город настолько «никакой», я бы уехала сегодня подальше.

Зато в гесте я нахожу книжку «Вино из одуванчиков» Рея Бредбери, которую забираю с собой. Теперь мне будет, что читать 2 дня в Лимассоле, где я буду пережидать шторма.

3 января. Пафос – Лимассол, 72.55км, 4:37чхв.

Всю ночь и утро лил сильный дождь, и я долго не могла решиться, ехать мне сегодня или сидеть. Но все ж решила ехать. Очень уж не хотелось мне ночевать в этом сарае еще одну ночь. И около 8:15 я выехала.

Первые 20км был довольно большой трафик, но потом населенки стало меньше, дорога начала любовно прижиматься к морю, и ехать стало спокойней.

С 20го километра в районе так называемого места рождения Афродиты из пены есть приличное количество хороших мест для ночевки. Но я еду дальше.

P1240966  P1240971

А дальше дорога принялась резать холмы, а меня принялось полоскать отменным дождем. На первом таком дожде я оделась в дождевое по полной, но сегодня стоял очень жаркий день, и я так упарилась в этом ехать в подъем, что на втором дожде ограничилась курткой и кепкой, иначе ноги горят и не крутят. Еще и, как назло, сегодня поливает меня именно на подъемах.

В Писоури я села попить кофе и немного остыть. На верху следующего очередного перевала начались военные городки и базы Великобритании, прям в сосновых лесах. Неплохое местечко они себе выбрали для жизни.

P1240977  P1240979

За 20км до Лимассола снова начался сильный трафик, который на въезде в город стал просто бешенным. Но я уже вошла в его ритм и получалось бойко оглядываться через правое плечо и смотреть во все стороны одновременно. Водительские навыки приносили пользу). Так что до хостела я добралась хорошо.

Хостел я выбрала с кемпинговой площадкой, на которой можно было встать со своей палаткой за 5 евро, при этом беплатно пользоваться душем, кухней, холодильником и общим лобби. В общем, просто замечательный вариант.

И даже палатку я успела поставить до дождя, который сегодня никак не хотел униматься надолго. А дальше мыться, кушать и гулять.
Я знала, что Лимассол красивый город, но он меня реально зацепил.

Очень ухоженная и развитая набережная в несколько уровней с бассейнами, детскими и спортивными площадками, тренажерами, ресторанчиками, множеством лавочек. При этом рядом старые кварталы – неказистые, с граффити, но тем они и прекрасны, что в них не наведен лоск и сохранилась и история, и колорит, и харизма.

P1240995  P1250007

Завтра и послезавтра обещают самые непогожие дни с восклицательными знаками в прогнозе. Так что их мне точно еще сидеть здесь. А дальше будет видно.

4 и 5 января. Лимассол.

Дни прошли в пережидании ливней, чтении «вина из одуванчиков», вечерних прогулках по набережной.

P1250011  P1250017

Не смотря на то, что я уже два дня не кручу педали, как и Дуглас из книжки я "чувствую что живой", и что сейчас случается мое маленькое лето, которому осталось длиться совсем недолго…

P1250025 1  P1250021 2

А после дождей набережная Лимассола особенная: яркое закатное солнце, жмурящиеся коты и шум прибоя, такого сильного, что захлестывает деревянные помосты, и вкус фисташкового мороженного, и корабли, покачивающиеся на волнах и почти сверкающие в облаках.

P1250025 3  P1250025

А на последующие дни обещают отличную погоду, и хотя все, кто сегодня возвращается оттуда на машине, говорят о снеге, я решила завтра ехать в горы Троодоса. Не дело это, если часть моего свернутого плана окажется нереализованной. Да и дней до отлета еще как раз предостаточно.

6 января. Лимассол – подножие хребта Троодос – Месо Патамос, 45.64км, 4:26чхв.

За предыдущие дни палатку так сильно обхлестало дождем, что не смотря на то, что ночью ничего не лилось, с утра она была влажная и очень грязная со всех сторон.

Поднявшись в 6:45 и плотно позавтракав мюслями и печеньем, в 8 утра я выехала. Город еще не проснулся этим субботним утром, и дороги были к моему счастью пустые.

Мой девиз сегодняшнего дня: «главное - не устать!». Забавный девиз, когда тебе надо набрать сильно больше 1000метров высоты). Но я еду не торопясь, не сбивая дыхание. Ноги крутят как никогда. Видать 2 дня отдыха вывели их на режим суперкомпенсации).

110я трасса очень удачная для подъема. Машин мало, а высоту она набирает очень плавно, и когда на 25-ом километре я подъехала к развилке на высоте 670м, я действительно еще не устала. На развилке чуть не уехала не туда. Дороги не совсем соответствуют карте, а указатель был только с одной стороны дороги. Пришлось немного вернуться. Мне на Агиос Мамос. И дорога пошла вниз! Вот досада. И сколько я ее не упрашивала, она все сильнее и сильнее теряла мою набранную высоту. А я хотела вверх, ведь всё это предстояло выбирать обратно! В итоге дорога скинула больше 200 метров перед очередными подъемами.

P1250030  P1250037

От Агиос Мамас проехав совсем немного, я всего на 500 метров выпала на трассу В8, и даже за эти 500 метров успела устать от трафика на ней! Хорошо что мне по ней не ехать. И я свернула на узкую асфальтовую дорожку, ведущую к монастырю, которая красиво нарезала петли по сосновым джунглям Троодоса.

Ехала я хорошо, но на этой дорожке угол наклона перестал быть гуманным и скорость резко замедлилась.

К монастырю я сильно устала. Зашла на территорию, погуляла, посидела у фонтанчика, чтоб восстановить дыхание, купила в монастырской лавке очень вкусного кипрского меда и отправилась дальше искать место для ночевки.

Хоть время и всего 13:30, выше я сегодня подниматься не хотела, так как там слишком холодно ночевать. А тут совсем рядом на 1000метрах есть хорошая пикник зона, в центре которой я и ставлю палатку на самом удобном и ровном месте, не взирая на людей, приехавших сюда на машинах пообедать.

Большинство приезжих семей на половину русские – русскоговорящие жены и греко либо англо-говорящие мужья.

Сначала просушиваю как следуют свою грязную палатку, а в это время гуляю по красивым окрестным грунтовкам, также тут совсем рядом небольшой симпатичный водопадик. А затем ставлю свой дом уже основательно, и завожу ужин – рис с колбасой.

P1250057  P1250057 1

А один из мужей неподалеку достает гитару и начинает петь.

Как же прекрасно слышать звуки родного инструмента. Как я по ней соскучилась.

Он поет простые английские песни, но они как нельзя лучше ложатся на душу. И кажется, его тут никто и не слушает кроме меня.
Парень затягивает «Отель Калифорния», а я сижу рядом со своим «отелем Троодос», жую рис, запиваю киселем, и на душе так тепло и тоскливо… так тоскливо, но тепло.

К 16 часам все уезжают, и я остаюсь одна. Точнее мы с котами, которые тут явно хозяева. Надеюсь, ночью они меня пугать не будут).
Через час главный кот забрался на стол и протяжно во весь голос завыл, как воют собаки на луну. Хоть вставай и кашу ему вари. Но думаю, что выл он все же не от голода. Просто ему сегодня тоже особенно  тоскливо…хоть и наверняка тепло.

P1250053  P1250066

Завтра у меня в планах сделать круговой объезд хребта, чтоб начать спускаться и ночевать уже где-то пониже, где немного теплей.

7 января. Месо Патамус – вдп.Каледония – Троодос (подножие г.Олимпус) – Кала Хорио – чей-то огород. 58.6км, 4:53чхв.

День выдался длинным, насыщенным и очень непростым. Спала я плохо. В 20 часов приходили какие-то люди и что-то осматривали вокруг, но меня не побеспокоили и куда-то опять ушли.

А ночью задул довольно сильный ветер, которые прошивал палатку, и стало очень холодно. Даже натянув на себя всю одежду, я все равно немного подмерзла.

P1250072  P1250084

Встала в 6:45, выехала как всегда в 8:10. И поняла, что за люди вчера приходили. За ночь поднялась вода в ручье из-за таянья снега в горах, и он вышел на дорогу, подтопив ее, но для велика проблем нет.

Дорожка почти сразу стала грунтовой, это куски промеченного веломаршрута №1. Еще в Лимассоле тётя из Бостона говорила, что это опасно на машине ездить по бездорожью. Зато на велике – самое то!

P1250087  P1250094

Скоро я выскочила на трассу у поворота на водопад Каледония, и потопала к нему пешком. Воды в нем сейчас прилично, а на тропе ни одного человека. Так что я хорошо прогулялась по уютной лесной тропочке, то и дело прыгающей по мостикам через ручей.

P1250100  P1250109

А дальше вернулась к велику и поползла к вершине Троодоса. Ехалось тяжело, то ли уклон стал круче, то ли усталость уже давала о себе знать. Около 1500м начался первый снег по обочинам, который только прибавлялся до самых 1700м, то есть до вершины перевала. Но ехать он не мешал – дорога чистая.

P1250127 1  P1250127 2

К вершине я очень вымоталась, и села в кафешке отдохнуть в тепле, заказав тебе суп с лепешкой и кофе. А когда вышла из кафе обратно, оказалось что на улице очень холодно (что конечно логично когда вокруг снег), а я и не чувствовала этого когда заехала.

Я надела кофту, куртку и повязку на уши и пошла на спуск. Но вывалив на линию трека моих предшественников, которые колесили по Троодосу немного другим путём, я поняла, что они лёгких путей не искали, и решили собрать все окрестные гривы, а гривы совсем не маленькие.

P1250132  P1250141

И я решаю пойти немного своим путём. Ухожу до 110й трассы, проезжаю ей через небольшой перевал до развилки, рядом с которой я вчера с нее ушла, и начинаю резать те же гривы, держа общее направление к Ларнаке, но на несколько меньшей высоте. Это не менее красиво, но более логично.

В общем спуск сегодня крайне относительный. Так как разных горок я проехала сегодня столько, что пальцев на руках не хватит.

Ближе к 16 часам начинаю искать место для ночлега, и на очередном перевале видя, что внизу населенка и дальше мест не будет, прям с перевала нахожу небольшую грунтовую дорожку, по видимому используемую охотниками (судя по количеству патронов на ней), ведущую выше по хребту. Она имеет маленький тупиковый участок, выходящий к чьему-то оливковому огороду. Тут в тупике я и ставлю палатку, прикрытая от дороги бугром.

P1250150  P1250156

И хоть на соседнем холме и стреляют охотники, меня никто не побеспокоил. Зато как вкусно пахнут срезанные и уже подсохщие оливковые ветви!

8 января – Кало Хорио – Аракапас – грунтовый перевал – Лангея – Ларнака, 82,5км, 5:23чхв

Ночь была очень спокойная, но влажная. Поймала себя на мысли, что вблизи хоть какой-то цивилизации спится все равно спокойнее, чем в полном одиночестве, когда на километры никого. Тогда мешают инстинкты, это совсем не страх, его то как раз нет. Но все равно некоторая лишняя настороженность. А сегодня даже шум от изредка проезжающих машин успокаивает и убаюкивает. Как ни крути, а один на один с миром надо еще суметь быть. И тот, кто никогда не сталкивался с этим, зря думает что все так уж просто и романтично)

P1250162  P1250164

После пары дней активного педаляжа тело было очень пересоленное, а стояла я сегодня совсем без воды, только литр на готовку. Так что спала я не очень - очень хотелось помыться. И я подумала, что сегодня вполне есть некоторый эфимерный шанс доехать сразу до Ларнаки. Хотя дорога быть простой совсем не обещала.

Выехала я традиционно в 8:10, и дорога чуть спустившись снова поползла в горку, а я принялась искать, где же взять воды, и, как назло, ни огородов с краниками, ни открытых лавочек не попадалось.

Но тут ко мне сама из дома вышла женщина и сказала: «а? неро?» , и убежала с моей бутылкой. Выйдя поинтересовалась, не голодна ли я, и пожелала мне счастливого пути. Так что жизнь моя сразу же наладилась. С водой никакие перевалы были не страшны). И перевалы не заставили себя ждать.

P1250173  P1250181

В одном из поселков я снова вывалила на линию, прорисованную моими предшественниками, и повинуясь ей ушла на грунтовую срезку между двумя поселками, чтобы не делать широкий асфальтовый объезд. А срезка оказалась красивым грунтовым перевалом, да еще и двойным. Этакий кусочек Акамаса в предгорьях Троодоса.

Ничего не могу поделать, люблю грунтовые перевалы. Еду и улыбаюсь во весь рот, как будто мне выдали неучтенку в виде последней шоколадной конфеты, и сказали: но «больше такого не будет!». Я знаю, что это последний перевал этого похода, и от этого стараюсь впитать и почувствовать каждый поворот, каждый изгиб дороги, опоясывающей холм.

На одном из крутых спусков меня обгоняет пикап. Водитель везет 4х женщин собирать ягоду, шелковицу. Он притормаживает рядом со мной со словами «отличное у тебя такси!!!», и улыбаясь уезжает дальше). И я с ним согласна)

P1250181 1  P1250193

Спуск заканчивается небольшим бродиком через ручей, за которым снова начинается крутой подъем к поселку Лангия.

К верхушке я изрядно устала и захотела кушать, но решила дотянуть до спуска. После поселка дорога еще несколько километров испытывала на прочность и только потом смилостивилась и пошла на долгожданный спуск, а на горизонте вдали появилось море, так туманно переходящее в небо, что казалось будто огромные корабли парили прям в воздухе.

Я спускаюсь довольно долго до пересечения с трассой №1, и сажусь в кафешке перекусить пирогами и кофе, а заодно перевести дух. Шансы доехать сегодня до Ларнаки стали куда более реалистичными.

А дальше еще немного пологих гривок и я, наконец, у моря, и дальше поеду вдоль него. Дорога вдоль кромки ровная и пустая, и я по ней просто мчусь, отсчитывая десятки километров. Машины появляются только в поселке Кити перед аэропортом. И вот уже пролетел мимо аэропорт, и я поворачиваю к соленому озеру с фламингами.

P1250193 1  P1250202

Кольцо полностью замкнулось! И первое, что я делаю….я прокалываю заднее колесо!! Велик крепился, терпел) а тут расслабился. Прорезала острым камушком свою уже изрядно истрёпанную покрышку. Времени у меня вагон, так что если в другой день этот факт вызвал бы досаду, то сейчас я просто улыбаюсь и принимают перебортовываться. Заодно и заклеиваю на всякий случай сразу пробитую камеру. Как окажется спустя полчаса совсем не зря. Так как доехав до мечети и прогулявшись вдоль озера, я только въехала в городскую черту Ларнаки и при неудачном прыжке с бордюра почувствовала, что заднее колесо уж слишком подозрительно просело. Но до хостела осталось 2км, и я доехала спокойно. Вскоре колесо спустило, я поменяла камеру, проверила покрышку и ничего не нашла, но при накачивании спустило и эту камеру. И только эксперименты с опусканием камеры в воду помогли найти место на покрышке, где к нее вошла тоненькая-тоненькая проволока. Но теперь это уже не важно. Я уже дома. И как же это приятно помыться с мочалкой до скрипа кожи!

9,10 января. Ларнака, отъезд домой.

А дальше была перепаковка вещей, поедание осьминогов, которыми меня принялись заботливо кормить украинские ребята, живущие со мной в одной гостинице, долгие разговоры за жизнь, прощание с набережной, и с фламингами. В основном фламинго были довольно далеко от берега, и их довольно тяжело сфотографировать с поднятой головой, так как они постоянно что-то едят в воде.

P1250217  P1250228

И только на пути в аэропорт я нашла ее – одиночку, стоящую отдельно от всей стаи. Но хоть она и одиночка, с головой у нее было всё в порядке! ;)

Заключение.

Я не слишком много ожидала от этой страны, но Кипр меня приятно удивил отличными горными дорожками, идеальными для велотуризма, мягким климатом, красивыми пейзажами, доброжелательными людьми, уютными портовыми городками.

Очень короткий зимний световой день не позволил проезжать большие километражи. Но зато для меня это было сдерживающим фактором и не дало мне себя загнать, как это у меня частенько бывает. В общем страна однозначно может быть рекомендована для велотуризма в межсезонье, как маленький оплот лета, моря, гор и сосновых лесов, а значит – здоровья.

PS: выражаю благодарность Эмилии Лариевой (Санкт-Петербург/Петрозаводск) за помощь в подготовке маршрута.

 

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