Вступление.
Черногория страна известная и изъезженная российскими велотуристами. Но не каждым удается пробиваться через некоторые нац.парки, проваливаясь по бедро в снег. Снежная весна в этом году наложила свой отпечаток и в горах грунтовки через интересные перевалы еще не успели растаять, тем не менее краем Биоградского заповедника мы прорвались) уж слишком хотелось ярких впетчатлений). А дорогу от Жабляка до Плужино и вовсе почистили буквально за день до нашего приезжа в Жабляк. Повезло! И прокатившись двумя заповедниками через большинство красот этой горной тем более радостно было закончить этот поход Адриатическим морем в Тивате, да еще и с палаточным ночлегом на берегу Которской бухты.
2 мая. Каньон реки Ибар – Рожае – Беране, 58км, 4:12чхв, 790м. набора высоты
Всего один день погода дала передохнуть нам от дождя, и сегодня снова зарядил он, нудный и моросящий.
Местную валюту мы потратили еще вчера, так что завтракали сегодня, чем бог послал нам магазинах в предыдущие дни. Но во время сборов великов, когда мы уже собирались отъезжать от мотеля, произошел курьезный случай. Из Лёшиного коврика типа выпали 200 динар. Причем мы не видели, их подобрали проходящие мимо нас иностранцы, со словами: нате, у вас упало. Мы сначала в недоумении пытались сказать: да, наверное, не наше. А потом решили, ну и ладно. Хочет нам сделать Сербия подарок напоследок – пусть делает. И заказали себе два капучино!
Сербия провожает нас дождем и кофе, чтоб мы на нее не сердчали. И нет большего счастья утром в промозглую погоду согреться чашкой горячего кофе и еще на 15 минут оттянуть момент, когда нужно снова садится на велосипед и ехать в морось.
Границу прошли спокойно, уточнили у пограничника про необходимость своевременной регистрации, на что он нам сказал, что главное, чтоб мы первую ночь проночевали в отеле, где нам сделают регистрацию и дальше с этим «белым картоном» можем быть спокойными. Эпопея с попыткой соблюсти черногорские законы у нас затянется на несколько дней и о ней я расскажу отдельно позже.
Каньон реки Ибар всё-таки потрясающе красив. И его не портят ни промозглая пасмурная погода, ни неприличное количество мусора, встречающееся по берегам и обочинам. Порой дорога выходит из каньона и спускается поближе к реке, и тогда она переходит в сплошную чехарду из мостов и тоннелей, тоннелей и мостов.
Незадолго до города Рожае мы встречаем парня на велосипеде. Он едет с мальчиком на раме, и постоянно мне слегка мешается, так как едет в тоннелях с левой стороны дороги и мешает машинам объехать нас, если мы оказываемся там одновременно.
Парень явно проявлял к нам интерес, и когда мы с Лёшей остановились перевести дух, он подъехал ознакомиться и позвал к себе домой пить кофе. С одной стороны нам не очень хотелось быть обузой, но когда мы еще побываем в черногорском доме, да и побываем ли вообще. В общем, мы отправились за ним, и нисколько не пожалели.
Он привозит нас в большой красивый дом. Сам он худождик-любитель, любит рисовать старые виды Рожае как бы они могли выглядеть десятки, а то и сотню лет назад, но рисует не только это. А папа его резчик по дереву. Почти вся мебель в доме сделана своими руками. Пока супруга и мама принимаются нам готовить, нас уводят в мастерскую. Картины очень и очень душевные. Сам парень почтальон, а сестра работает парикмахером. В итоге его картины висят на почте и в парикмахерской. Больше увы нигде не выставляются, даже в таком маленьком городе как Рожае. Также в мастерской есть фамильный музей, где собраны старые вещи, представляющие ценность для их семьи, утюг, самоплетенная корзинка еще и его бабушки, и много много всего интересного.
Семья их мусульманская. На мой вопрос, как вам живется, есть ли религиозный вопрос, он говорит, что нету. И живут в Черногории очень мирно и христиане и мусульмане, и все это дележка политиков, а они все дружат. Еще говорим о разном, о том как уважают Тито, о том, что никому из простых людей не нужен был развал Югославии, о том что при Тито работали в Рожае фабрики и заводы и городок жил, а теперь ничего не работает и все уезжают, в общем много аналогий в судьбах наших стран, хоть и размеры стран совсем разные.
Мама кормит нас очень вкусной кукурузной масленицей (типа запеканки из кукурузной крупы-муки и зелени) и поит кофе, и мы потихоньку собираемся в дорогу.
Наш почтальон провожает нас до выезда из города. По дороге с ним здоровается полгорода, узнавая, кого это он везёт).
От Рожае дорога снова уходит в небольшой перевал, но на верху лежит снег и очень холодно, и километровый тоннель, на этот раз с освещением. И всё равно никак не могу привыкнуть к тоннелям. При приближении любой самой маленькой машинки не покидает ощущение, что ты попадаешь под поезд в тоннеле метро – такой гул и рев при этом стоит.
После тоннеля дождик перестает и мы спускаемся к Беране под удивительную погоду – необычное сочетание яркой зелени, контрастного света солнца и клубящихся туч.
В Беране мы пытались заселится в отеле, чтоб соблюсти правила регистрации, но цены нам там не понравились, и по дороге нас заприметил таксист, который в итоге предложил жить у него в приват руме, чуть ли не за втрое меньшую цену, обещав тоже сделать нам регистрацию.
3 мая. Беране – Любница – озеро Шишковое – Мойковац, 46км, 5:57чхв, 1590м. набора высоты
С утра стояла чудесная погода, мы неспешно выехали в 8 утра и до 9 неспешно завтракали в пекарне. И только после этого отправились на выезд из города.
Варианта дороги у нас сегодня два. Первый стандартный – основной трассой через Колашин, точнее «в» Колашин, потому что до Мойковаца мы вряд ли успеем.
А второй авантюрный – через горы краем Биоградского заповедника. Я еще дома прорисовала линию, ориентируясь по гугл-снимку, и знала, что вначале дорога есть, а вот в середине «кака», и на спуске всё очень запутано. Но основная проблема не в этом, а как всегда в снеге! Его сейчас слишком много в горах.
Тем не менее, когда мы доехали до поворота на Любницу, я всё-таки решила узнать у местных, проедем или нет. Местные сказали, что летом то можно, но сейчас снега по грудь. Однако Алексей высказал желание все же попробовать, а это уже полдела! В конце концов, может местные там просто давно не были. Да и запасные дни есть, если что – вернёмся.
До Любницы сейчас идет реконструкция дороги и вместо чудесного старенького асфальтика тряская и пыльная гравийка с мешающейся техникой. Терпим.
Дорожники еще раз сказали, что снега на перевале много, но реально никто из них не был там, так что наивные едем дальше).
От Любницы пошел очень узенький хорошенький асфальт шириной в одну машинку до следующей деревни Кукуриче, в которой местные третий раз сказали нам, что снега слишком много. Но мы ж уже далеко заехали, теперь уже надо своими глазами смотреть.
И вот все асфальты закончились и зачалась узенька грунтовка с колеей. В крайнем доме нам снова сказали, что снега еще много, но сколько точно, по колено или по пояс, они не знают). И мы снова поехали дальше.
До «планерского дома» доехали нормально. Встретили по дороги джипующего пацана-пастушка на какой-то пузотерке, пытающегося переехать снежник. Вытолкнули его на дорогу и тоже пристали с вопросом про снег. Он сказал, что ходил наверх пешком до озера. И с велосипедом пройти шансы есть. Этими словами он, конечно, нас отчасти обрадовал, но легкого пути мы не ждали.
И вот началось, дорога во многих местах стала полностью забитой снегом, и не обойти, только по нему. А снег мокрый, тяжелый, колеса вязнут и забиваются снегом, ноги проваливаются. И всё это идет вверх на перевал. Сказать что упахались, значит ничего не сказать. В паре совсем сложных мест, когда у меня уже сдавала физика, Лёшка снимал свою рюкзак на плечи и забирал мой вел с рюкзаком, а я вела его пустой, затем менялись назад.
И вот наконец-то озеро. Урраа! Дальше совсем немного вверх, и потом будет только вниз!
Озеро, надо сказать, красивущее даже под снегом и льдом. Вокруг скалы, вытаявшие полянки с подснежниками и очень заснеженные горы, и конечно же никого вокруг!
Мы немного посидели, перевели дух, и пошли дальше, искать точку перевала.
Вдоль озера шел небольшой открытый от снега участок дороги, заканчивающийся снежной целиной. По нему мы и вышли на перевальный пупырек над озером, с которого вниз.
И вопрос то только один: вниз, это куда? И дело даже не в том, что глубина снега здесь настолько большая, что даже ориентиры дороги не видно, а в том, что дороги тут нет, и где-то под этой снежной целиной она переходит в тропу и уже тропой спускается в долину ручья, по которой нам и надо спуститься с перевала.
Вот тут то и пришлось мне включить все свои навыки интуитивного ориентирования, наработанные еще в лыжных походах, когда разгадываешь саму логику тропы.
Упершись с одной стороны в крутые отвесы склона и увидев красную метку тропы на другом берегу, мы пересекли ручей по заснеженному плотному мостику (на удивление даже не провалившись в воду) и пошли по логике и по линии, которую я нарисовала в gps еще дома.
Склон очень крутой по боковому уклону, снег рыхлый. И то, что летом является безобидной тропкой, теперь заставляет нас разгадывать ребусы и проваливаться выше колен. Благо я знала, что такого участка тропы всего 1.5 км, и дальше должна все-таки появится какая никакая, но дорожка. Кое-где приходилось челночить отдельно велосипед и рюкзаки, и главное не завалиться с каньончика в ручей.
Но наконец-то мы вышли с ручья на поляну в домику, от которой виднелись куски дорог, уходящих в разные стороны. И снова, если б не линия, нарисованная по снимку еще дома, я б рисковала тут заблудится в перипетии дорог, потому что даже с gps сориентироваться тут было не просто.
Ну, думали мы, теперь то мы покатим! Ага, не тут то было.
Мало того что и дорога оказалась вся забита снегом, по ней еще и течет весенняя бурная река, образовавшаяся из нашего ручья и теперь набирающая силу всё больше и больше, от талого снега и впадающих ручьев. Снег, брод, брод, снег, и так бесконечно. Но так как ноги у нас давно уже мокрые, переходим мы уже не разуваясь. По мере спуска я начинаю все больше и больше переживать, что с какой-то момент такой силы поток мы уже перейти не сможем. И тут я понимаю, что мы уходим левее, а наша дорога дальше должна идти по правому берегу. И действительно какая-то дорожка там виднеется! И более того, она сильно суше и чище нашей, потому что идет по более солнечному склону.
Вот только поток реки тут уже суров. Я нашла приемлемое место и перешла ногами с велосипедом сама. А Леша решил, что сможет не намочить ноги еще сильней, и пролез по бревнышку, а я приняла его велосипед через воду. И вот, мы наконец-то на бесснежной стороне мира!! Как же прекрасно стоять на дороге без снега! Дорога поднялась над бурной рекой на солнечный склон, и все наши суровые темные снежные леса остались позади. Вот теперь действительно ура!
Сухая дорожка была очень красива и подарила массу удовольствия. Вниз она конечно не пошла. Она полезла в перевальчик, с которого уже была видна и долина реки Тары и такой долгожданный Мойковац. Развилок конечно на этой дороге тоже было предостаточно. По буковым рощам серпантинами мы спустились до первых обитаемых домиков, где можно было среди очередной кучи развилок уточнить, точно ли наша дойдет до Мойковаца.
На вопрос «а откуда вы тут взялись?» и ответ «беране – шишковое озеро», местные качали головой и говорили «о!!!». И мы даже начали было собой гордится, но тут мы остановились у родника набрать воды, и на вопрос проходящих двух дяденек «откуда» и на тот же ответ, те бросили нам «Ума нема», и отправились дальше. Не сразу поняв смысл фразы, я говорю: «Лёш, что они сказали?». «Не знаю, но судя по выражению их лиц, сказали, что мозгов у нас нет». И тут мы оба понимаем, что именно это они и сказали! Ума нема). Смеялись мы долго. А эта фраза стала, пожалуй, девизом сегодняшнего дня.
Нам грязным, уставшим и мокроногим, сегодня требовался цивильный ночлег. Но в Мойковаце, как назло, оказался только один отель с не самыми бюджетными для нас ценами и неторгующимся отельером. Мы объездили весь город, и в итоге вернулись туда вновь. Гулять так гулять. В итоге моемся, стираемся, сушим обувь и идем праздновать с «русским салатом» (оливье) и грушевой ракией.
Устали мы сегодня сурово, болят мышцы от головы до пят. Еще и на моей ноге к гематоме с падения в Македонии добавилась синяя икроножная, избитая педалями. Боевой окрас)
Но это был очень и очень красивый, достойный и авантюрный день.
4 мая. Мойковац – парк Дурмитор – берег реки Тара, 48км, 3:10чхв, 620м. набора высоты
Вчерашний забойный день так вымотал, что сегодня я решаю сделать незапланированную полудневку и разбить дорогу до Жабляка на 2 дня. Причин этому несколько. Во-первых у меня пошел уже третий десяток дней похода на которые пришлось только 2 дня отдыха, маловато, и организм у меня уже начал уставать. А во-вторых и в главных, хотелось проехать красивой дорогой вдоль Тары спокойно и никуда не торопясь. И запасные дни у меня в графике по-прежнему не были израсходованы. Так что принимаю решение ночевать примерно в середине пути в районе моста Джуржевича.
Так как сегодня был третий день наших перипетий с регистрацией, то пришло время рассказать эту историю целиком.
Про регистрацию.
По новому закону, принятому в Черногории в начале 2015 года, все иностранцы обязаны быть зарегистрированы по прибытию в течение одного! (даже не трёх) дня с момента пересечения границы. Бумажку – регистрационную карточку, называют тут «белый картон», и за отсутствие регистрации при обратном пересечении границы положен крупный штраф в 600 евро.
Регистрация может быть сделана как в гостинице, так и у частного лица.
Итак, мы решили быть законными гражданами и еще три дня назад в Беране стребовали с нашего таксиста с приват-румом, чтоб он сделал нам белый картон. Он всё понял и ушел колдовать, вернулся с бланками, попросил паспорта и ушел.
Вернулся он, увы, ни с чем, бланки были заполнены, но печати не стояли. Он сказал, что дежурные в полиции сказали, что сегодня выходной и канцелярия не работает, поэтому сделать ничего не могут и мы сможем зарегистрироваться завтра в Калашине или Мойковаце.
Кстати по-сербски «не работает» звучит как «не рада»! и мы долго не могли понять, почему это полиция нам не рада).
Мы засомневались (может просто ему не хотелось платить сбор в 1 евро), забрали у него заполненные бланки и утром поехали в полицию снова, правда это было всё еще воскресенье.
С трудом достучавшись до дежурных, объяснили ситуацию. Причем увидев нас пришел и хозяин комнаты - таксист. Но нам снова сказали, что полиция «не рада». На что мы достали им текст закона и показали, что срок у нас: 1 календарный день. Дежурные пошли звонить выше в управление, вернулись, и говорят: да всё фигня, три дня можно, не переживайте.
Ну что сказать, нам ничего не оставалось как согласится и ехать дальше. И надеется, что в Мойковаце полиция будет «рада».
И вот мы в Мойковаце. Утром я уточняю у нашего отельера, как там дела с регистрацией. А он говорит: да мы не делаем, у нас сами данные в полицию передаются и они там знают, так что вы не парьтесь. И мы б рады не парится, но так как закон придумали специально, чтоб собирать штрафы с тех, кто не парится, хотелось подтверждения. Я попросила кассовый чек, чтоб иметь доказательство жизни в отеле, и мы всё же решили съездить в полицию Мойковаца и уточнить. Надежда была на то, что нам пропечатают наши вчерашние бланки.
С трудом мы нашли отделение полиции на самом дальнем отшибе города. Я не знаю, бывают ли в Мойковаце правонарушения, но в полиции у них обстановка не выглядела рабочей. Тётенька на ресепшене выслушала нас и отправила на второй этаж в кабинет №4. Кабинет был открыт, но вокруг никого, мы прогулялись по этажу, где-то в соседнем кабинете явно все были «рады», было закрыто, но стоял радостный гвалд голосов. Прождав минут 10, мы вернулись вниз и долго объясняли тёте, что так никого нет. Она несколько раз звонила по телефону, в итоге нас отвели в комнату с гвалдом. Там было накурено и полиция что-то автивно праздновала смешанным половым составом. Мужчина посмотрел на наши бумажки, поставил подписи и сказал, что нам надо идти в канцелярию в кабинет №6. Но там тоже никого не было. Мы снова вниз. Тётенька опять звонила, в итоге к нам пришла еще одна женщина, поднялась в кабинет, занесла руку с печатью над бумажкой… и сказала: так у вас же тут написан город «Беране», это не в нашей компетенции, езжайте туда, и почему он вам вообще подписал эти листы??, и мы снова пошли в комнату с гвалдом. Дяденька выслушал нас и сказал, что белые картоны надо переделать на адрес отеля в Мойковаце. Мы: да без проблем, дайте бланки. Он: а у нас их нету!
Дальше немая сцена. Он подводит нас к окну, показывает на здание в соседнем квартале, в котором хоз.маг, и говорит: там найдете! Причем мы несколько раз переспросили.
Естественно в хоз.маге никаких бланков не оказалось, с соседнем киоске печати тоже, и о чудо! мы нашли тур.информацию через пару домов. Там девушка внимательно нас выслушала и сказала, что первый раз слышит про «белые картоны», посмотрела на наши бланки и сказала, что у них таких никогда не было, предварительно позвонив и уточнив у начальства. Видев недоумение в наших глазах она решила позвонить в наш отель. Отельер сказал: да пусть не парятся, сейчас электронная база общая по отелям, в крайнем случае покажут чек, который я им дал.
И мы решили не парится, так как все остальные варианты были уже исчерпаны! Но это ладно, мы жили в отеле. А если б мы жили у частного лица, то закон не удалось бы соблюсти ни при каких черногорских условиях.
Потеряв кучу времени на соблюдение законов, подкупив продуктов, мы, наконец, выехали из города. Вместо того, чтоб ехать вниз, дорога сначала набрала метров 150 высоты, и только потом плавно пошла то верх то вниз.
Тара очень красива, как и её притоки. По пути встречается множество бурных ручьев и водопадов, бьющих прям из скал, красивые недлинные тоннели и арки, и ярко зеленые лиственные и сосновые рощи. Машин почти нет, в основном только редкие большегрузы.
Свернули по указателям на старый храм – монастырь Доброловина. Тут расположен храм Св.Георгия и воскрестная школа. Забавная молодая монахиня попросила нас помочь переставить лавки на улице, радуясь как ребенок и приговаривая: «супер! супер!», а затем выдала нам штаны и юбку, и провела в храм. Храм маленький, но очень приятный. Видно, что очень старый, 13го века, но реставрировался в 16м, был частично разрушен турками. На время захвата школа переезжала в пещеру неподалеку и продолжала работать. Ставим по свечке в этом тихом и добром месте, набираем воды, получаем в подарок по открытке и едем дальше.
Возвращаемся на дорогу и неподалеку от этого места останавливаемся в придорожном кафе, где плотно обедаем плескавицами. После обеда дорога становится еще красивее, но ущелье настолько узкое, что полочек или мест для стоянок нет вообще. Да и тут все же заповедник, как бы не совсем положено. Но в итоге не доезжая пары км до моста Джуржевича мы встаем на небольшой кемпинговой площадке нац.карка, сделанной для водных туристов, со столами. Правда сама будка нац.парка закрыта и никто не хочет ни разрешать-запрещать нам стоянку, ни брать плату. А место просто прекрасное. Неподалеку небольшой водопад, а сам берег закрыт от дороги. Так что мы даже купаемся в Таре.
5 мая, берег реки Тара – нац.парк Дурмитор - Жабляк, 33.5км, 3:30чхв, 1040м. набора высоты
Утро было ясным, но тёплым. Поднялись мы в 7 утра, но выехали только в 9, но зато успели и каши поесть и чаю попить. Перед выездом пришел инспектор и сказал, что тут вставать нельзя – нужно заплатить. Но на вопрос «сколько», он сказал: да теперь уже не надо.
До моста мы доехали через 2-3км. Сам мост на фотографиях кажется больше, чем он есть в жизни, но всё равно впечатляет.
От моста дорога идёт вверх, но плавно, так что ехать не сложно. Разве что очень жарко.
На перевале во всей красоте показывается хребет Дурмитор – весь в снегу.
Затем дорога долго идет с привычными перепадами вверх-вниз, вокруг много строящихся апартаментов и домов для аренду.
Перед Жабляком мы едим мороженное и едем в центр, где обращамся в тур.информацию с вопросом про чищенность наших будущих дорог и о том, где дешевле всего жить. Там нам говорят, что дороги через перевал Седло пока еще нет, а верхняя дорога через Трсу на Плужино чистится в данный момент и уже должна быть проезжей. По жилью сообщают, что кемпинги пока что не работают, и советую хорошие дешевые румы в центре, где мы и селимся за 10 евро с члка ночь. Тут хорошая кухня с холодильником – съэкономим на еде!
Моемся и едем на Черное озеро. Озеро очень красиво, особенно в дневном свете при ясной погоде. На тропе вокруг озера еще много снега и все другие тропы, кроме круговой, еще закрыты, но и эта очень и очень симпатичная. Обходим озеро вокруг, обфотографировав все красивые места, едем довольные домой. Закупаемся продуктами в магазе и варим чудесный куриный суп и режем капустный салат, и вино с сыром. В общем рай! Причем мой попутчик Лёша оказался ответственным кулинаром! я только и успевала посуду мыть, а он колдовал с кастрюлями.
Завтра у нас здесь дневка, а затем обещают грозовой день – трудно сказать, как он нам дастся на высоком перевале, но сегодня отдых!
6 мая, радиальный выезд на перевал 1950м и на обзорную точку на каньон р.Тара, 36км, 2:52чхв, 941м. набора высоты
Ездили на разведку на самый высокий перевал маршрута, чтоб убедится, что дорога действительно чищеная и проезжая. Она чищена и очень красива! но уровень снега часто превышает человеческий рост. Зато сегодня здесь солнечная погода и есть возможность полюбоваться красотами вокруг и пофотографировать. Будет ли такая возможность завтра, когда мы будем ехать тут груженые с рюкзаками под ливнем со снегом?..
С перевала открываются виды на долину Тары, которая уходит в суровый каньон. Есть специальные медитативные лавочки, где можно остановиться на "кефир-тайм" – привычное наше времяпрепровождение во время передышек, когда мы пьем кефир и едим булочки или другие припасенные вкусняхи.
После отправляемся к обзорному гребню каньона. Лёша лезет фотографировать горы с такого ракурса, что мне хочется отвернуться, чтоб не смотреть.
Затем у инспекторов выспрашиваем возможность проезда через очередной авантюрный кусок от самого перевала до Плужино, смазываем велы - и задачи дневки закончены. Завтра нас ждет суровый путь и похоже опять дожди.
Ужин у нас снова объедательный, с овощным рагу с фасолью. Всё-таки домашняя пища прекрасна.
7 мая. Жабляк- пер.1950м - оз.Сушечка – каньон реки Сушица – Трса – Плужино, 55.5км, 4:52чхв, 1450м. набора высоты
Встали рано. Пока вокруг ходят тяжелые тучи, но не льёт.
Плотно позавтракали, попили с хозяевами кофе и выехали. Как ни странно поднимались вверх довольно легко, пару раз принимался дождь, но довольно умеренный. На вершине традиционный кефир-тайм, оделись и полил ледяной ливень. Хорошо, что мы успели хотя бы подняться. Но деваться некуда и даже спрятаться тут не под чем – деревца и кустики совсем низенькие.
На спуске натыкаемся на закрытый планерский дом, но с козырьком. Под ним и прячемся сами, прячем рюкзаки и немного пережидаем самый пик, снова перекусывая.
Дождь стихает, и мы отправляемся вниз.
Дорога вниз идет совсем узенькая и с виражами как на веселых горках, очень приятная. В лесу снега вокруг дороги по прежнему много, но когда выходим из леса на открытые места, то количество снега уменьшается.
Проезжаем малую Черную гору (деревня) и заезжаем на борт каньона. И снова нас накрывает дождик.
Вопреки ожиданиям, асфальт не заканчивается, а идет через весь каньон до низа, асфальт свеженький, узенький в полмашинки, но кое-где уже подразрушенный осыпающейся породой каньона.
Каньон очень и очень красив, но в такую погоду смотрится сурово и не даётся фотографироваться так, как он этого достоин. Но есть в этом каньоне что-то монументальное и грозное, может снежные вершины укрытые в дождь клубами тумана, может тяжелый хвойный лес, может темно-синее озеро на дне каньона.
На подъезде к озеру встретили двух немцев, которые очень удвились поему самосборному велику на их германской раме vortreib. Сказали, что думали, что их не экспортируют и сказали, что у меня отличный велосипед. Ну я конечно загордилась)), сама ж собирала, с любовью. А то в Барнауле обычно велосипел с небрендовым названием считается китайцем из ашана))).
Пока мы спускались в каньон, дождь чуть стих, и мы решили подзадержаться немного на озере – развести костерок для чаю и пообедать. А обед у нас неслабый, хлеб с сыром, печеньки-конфетки и капуста! Да-да, мы так подсели на черногорскую нежную зеленую капусту, что увезли вилочек из Жабляка.
Пока мы обедали и гуляли вдоль берега, пришли громкоголосые голландцы с горы и испортили нам тихую приватную атмосферу озера в дождь. И мы решили, что на этом пора двигаться дальше, наверх из каньона.
Подъём из каньона был очень и очень крутым. Хоть и почти весь асфальтовый, с всё теми же осыпями по краям, - ехалось на пределе. Последние несколько витков подъема гравийные, заканчиваются красивой обзорной точкой с традиционной лавочкой. Как раз и небо немного прояснило и дождь окончательно решил перестать.
Я наивно полагала, что после выезда на край каньона, мы поедем вниз, но до Трсы дорога еще несколько раз уходила в длительные затяжные подъемы.
Пока мы доехали до Трсы, погода снова начала грозить Армагеддоном и поднялся сильный ветер, и на перекрестке дорог у деревни мы засели обедать чорбой и плескавицей, попутно рассказывая проезжающим мимо туристам-автомобилистам и мотоциклистам, что через Седло дороги нет, а через Сушечку есть. Сейчас у всех это самый популярный вопрос в этих местах.
Дождь не пошел, и мы поехали дальше. После Трсы дорога еще километров 10 идёт, как ни в чем не бывало, и только на последних 2км спуска в Пивинскому водохранилищу случается та самая красивейшая дорога с 12 тоннелями - мышиными норками, в некоторых из которых даже прям внутри сделаны развязки-перекрестки. Весь спуск меня не покидала мысль и психическом здоровье проектировщика этой дороги, так как он явно обладал нестандартным мышлением. Порода довольно мягкая, и ничего не стоило снести борта тоннелей полностью, но тогда бы не получилось столь привлекательного места!
Пивинское водохранилище очень красиво, но меня начинает «колбасить», подымается температура. Сегодня был последний трудоёмкий день похода, и видать организм, чувствуя скорое окончание путешествия, решил расслабиться раньше времени. Никак не могу взять себя (точнее организм) в руки, и остаток пути до Плужино еду уже еле-еле.
В Плужино мы довольно быстро находим кемпинг, точнее кемпинг находит нас. С удобствами тут не очень, зато красота неописуемая! Селимся на красивых луга в цветах под яблонями. Точнее сначала я просто падаю и лежу, и только через полчасика понимание, что пока светит солнышко, нужно помыться, заставляет меня подняться и начать ставить палатку.
В душевые домиков нас не пускают, и я иду узнавать к нашему хозяину-дедку, можно ли мыться в водохранилище, до которого идёт ооочень крутая тропа вниз. И тут картина маслом. На улице холод и ветер, но солнце. А я иду в коротких шортах и тельняшке узнавать). Дедок окинул меня взглядом, особенно мои боевые ноги в гематомах от падений и, кивая головой, сказал: «да, вам можно»).
Ну мыться это конечно громко сказано. Но пообливаться из кружки, чтоб смыть пот, - на это меня на ледяном ветру хватило.
Как у любого кемпинга на Балканах, тут снова есть ресторанчик, и вечером мы пьем вино с греческим салатом – больше снегов на нашем пути не будет!
8 мая. Плужино – Сланское озеро, 67.5км, 4:26чхв, 970м. набора высоты
Утро было таким солнечным, что никуда не хотелось уезжать. Мы пошли завтракать яичницей и завтракали часа полтора. Тут произошла забавная сцена.
Чехи-мотоциклисты спросили хозяина о проезжести дороги, и я слышу, что он им говорит, что обе дороги – и через Седло и через Сушечку не проезжие, и надо трассой, и я пошла вмешиваться. Мы ж проехали!
А мужики про дорогу через Седло знали, что такая в принципе есть, а через Сушечку – нет. Ушла за картой, чтоб они отфотографировали, вернулась, всё показала. А наш дедок-хозяин, понимая, что остался не удел, ходит за спиной туда-сюда, поддакивает, что-нть пальцем показывает. И в конце концов понимая, что он так и не пригодился, говорит чехам: «купаться идите! А то, что вы приехали вчера и даже не искупались». Чехи естественно смотрят на него как на полоумного, температура сейчас не выше +10. На что наш дедок, показывая на нас, говорит «А русские! купались!!!». Мы с Лёшкой долго смеялись))).
Мужики поблагодарили за помощь и уехали, а мы пошли собирать лагерь и только в 10:30 выехали, просто рекорд нерасторопности).
Снова наивно полагала, что будет дорога вниз. Но дорога весь день прыгала с холма на холм, то спускаясь, то снова набирая высоту на очередной перевальчик. Но дорога приятная. Машин мало, вдали холмы снежные, вблизи цветущие и зеленые, погода тёплая. По дороге заехали в Плужинский монастырь, но он оказался закрытым и мы не стали никого беспокоить, прогулялись по территории, и поехали дальше.
Обедали крапивной чорбой с придорожном кафе. Она оказалась такой вкусной, что Света съела две тарелки))), и съела бы даже три, но здравый смысл возобладал, будь он не ладен.
Перед Никшичем началась новая дорога, но мы ушли вовремя левее на старую второстепеночку и заезд в сам город благополучно срезали, выйдя сразу на так называемый Герцеговиский путь, и проехав совсем немного, снова вышли на старую дорогу через Сланское озеро, которая была тут до его затопления. Встали на берегу в просто потрясающем месте.
Небольшой мысок у заброшенного дома, с зеленой травкой, заканчивался каменистым спуском в воду. А вода в озере теплая, прогретая, вокруг полно рыбы, вдали на островках гнездится множество озерных птиц всех мастей – утки, цапли, и другие. В общем это тот редкий случай, когда смотришь на результат деятельности человека и понимаешь, что стало лучше чем было. Это нам подтвердил и вечерний гость, местный рыбак и охотник.
Мы поставили палатки и вдоволь накупались в тёплой воде в удовольствие. Затем Лёша даже пытался ловить рыбу, но рыба не хотела ловиться)
У домов набрали чабреца и мяты и заварили к ужину очень вкусного чаю.
Вечером, когда стеменело, к нам в гости пришёл ловец раков с собачкой. Показал нам, как он это делает, - хорошо, что мы купались в сандалиях)).
Ночью Лёша, воодушевившись рыбаком, отправился на ловлю с фонариком и палкой, и наловил раков полный котелок.
9 мая. Сланское озеро – Котор, 90.8км, 9:30чхв, 952м. набора высоты
Сегодня нам предстоял длинный день, а погоду после обеда обещали плохую, поэтому я немного тороплюсь. Поднялись мы в 6:30, но так как в котелке нас ждали раки и Лёша отказался наотрез выпускать обратно свою добычу, выезд задержался до 10 утра.
Выехали мы теперь уже на загруженную основную трассу, деваться особо некуда. Так как у нас вчерашним ужином закончились все продукты, а раками особо не наешься, то мы без завтрака, и потому, проехав пару часов, мы останавливаемся в единственном на много км кафе и как следует отъедаемся. Заодно смотрим по телевизору парад Победы из Москвы и Подгорицы, а также новости про военный конфликт в Куманово-Скопье.
За время обеда погода резко меняется и из-за холма надвигается огромная туча, начинается ливень. Но пережидать его большого смысла нет, так как это может быть надолго, и мы едем.
Несколько часов мы фактически сбегаем от пика дождя, прыгая с холма на холм. Но всё же он настигает нас, и очень сильный. Долго едем прям под ливнем, так как спрятаться негде, вымокаем капитально. Еще и как всегда дует ветер, но дождь он не сносит. А мы тем временем карабкаемся под ливнем в какой-то затяжной перевальчик (и кто в отчетах обещал, что дорога будет вниз??). И вот перед тоннелем видим маленькую кафешку, а дождь начинает просто неистовствовать. Прячемся туда и заказываем по кофе. Хозяин вошел в положение, помог и велики под навес завести, и его не смущало, что с самих нас капает. Он успевает сварить нам кофе, и отрубается из-за грозы электричество. А за бортом льет и льет. Мы просидели больше часа, а дождь и не думал униматься. Наш хозяин успел даже уснуть в сумерках и под шум дождя. Только в 16:10 дождь наконец стих и мы смогли ехать. Сильно похолодало, а мы остыли, и первый километр руль дрожит из стороны в сторону от дрожи в организме. Дорога скатывается вниз, а хочется покрутить вверх, чтоб согреться.
Но зато спуски-спуски, наконец-то мы спускаемся к морю – моё второе море похода, противоположный край Балканского полуострова. 10км спуска, несколько тоннелей и мы в Которской бухте.
Ощущение, что мы попали в другой мир – пальмы, лавры, сливы, гранаты, тропические растения, а ведь всего пару дней назад были снега-снега. Ехали мы вдоль бухты медленно, вдыхая влажный воздух, встречая закатные лучи солнца и наслаждаясь красотой и уютом приморских городков. В Котор приехали только в 19 вечера.
В Которе заселились в частной квартире и пошли гулять по уже ночному старому городу. Ночью он по-особому сказочно приятен, неплохо освещен и уютен.
10 мая. Котор-Тиват, 22км, 1:15чхв, 100м. набора высоты
11/12 мая. Днёвка в Тивате. Тиват – аэропорт, 21км.
Утром у нас ранний подъем, чтоб успеть до чекаута вернуться из Которской крепости. Мы наспех моемся, пьем кофе и завтракаем прям на улице, и в 8 утра идем в крепость. На проходной еще не собирают деньги, народу никого, погода отличная, в общем просто восторг!
Подымаемся под красивейший перезвон колоколов с храмов. Сама крепость впечатляет, как и виды, которые открываются сверху на бухту.
На спуске начинаются встречные волны туристов, и мы ретируемся.
Несколько улочек дневного старого города, набережная, пекарня, и мы собираем вещи и выезжаем. Основной поток машин едет в Тиват через перевальчик, а дорога по краю бухты узенькая, уютная и полупустая, и очень живописная. Но только до паромной переправы, а там еще 7км трассы и мы в Тивате, конечной точке маршрута.
Тиват – маленький светлый город, с портом, забитым яхтами и отличной набережной с ресторанчиками и местами для отдыха.
Едем искать кемпинг на край парка со звучным названием Жупа (или Зупа (Zoupa), суть от этого не меняется). Кемпинг есть, но сейчас там еще ремонт и он закрыт. Строители предлагают встать нам за забором прям у кромки моря. Туалет есть на пляже по соседству у вейкбордической станции.
Удобств тут конечно никаких, и после долгой дороги перед самолетом хотелось комфорта и помыться, но в конце концов, когда мы еще поночуем в палатке у моря, пусть даже и в Жупе)). И мы решаем остаться тут и не искать никаких вариантов. Тем более это самый край города и отсюда до аэропорта всего полтора километра.
Пристёгиваем велосипеды, палатки решаем не ставить до вечера, чтоб не оставлять их одни, и отправляемся в близлежащую зеленую парковую зону, затем в пекарню за булками, а затем и в город на поиски рыбного ресторана. Я немного капризничаю, но у меня конец похода, мне теперь всё можно). Лёша находит хороший рыбный ресторанчик с красивым видом, где мы с удовольствием едим кальмаров на гриле и ризотто с морепродуктами и отмечаем окончание велосипедной части пути белым вином.
А затем в обратную дорогу в нашу Жупу находим короткую дорогу по красивой набережной, купающейся в закатных лучах. Правда перед самым парком всё-таки случается «жупная» дорога и приходится бродить какие-то разливы и болотца, но уж очень не хотелось идти в обход.Уже в сумерках мы ставим палатки, и под дискотеку на вейкбордической станции тщетно пытаемся уснуть.
А затем утро встречает нас тишиной и покоем морского прибоя, сегодня еще один выходной день, с купанием в море, прогулками по городу и всё тем же рыбным ресторанчиков с вкусными осьминогами.
А затем утром 12 мая мы своим ходом уехали в аэропорт. Где разобрали до винтиков своих коней, и улетели в Москву, откуда каждый по своим городам.
Всегда удивляет этот момент в путешествии. Дорога там долго длиться, и затем так быстро заканчивается, всегда оставляя ощущение недосказанности, недоделанности, иногда даже обещаний вернуться…
Итоги.
Я очень рада, что эта моя дорога, длинною в месяц, удалась от и до, от моря и до моря.
Удивительным для меня получился мой опыт одиночки.
Я ехала в этот поход смиряться с одиночеством, а в итоге всё окружающее пространство стало моим попутчиком. И это совсем другая степень единения, которую сложно ощутить, если ты не один.
Несмотря на это, я очень рада, что во второй части похода у меня был попутчик Алексей. Без него вторая часть похода явно была бы скучнее, а некоторые авантюры, как переезд через Биоградский заповедник, и вовсе бы не удались. Ну и всегда приятно, когда есть с кем выпить отличного черногоского вина) и съесть мороженного. В общем истина в этом вопросе, как всегда, посередине).
Дома иногда спросят: зачем тебе это? Потому что если я знаю, что могу, но не сделаю это, я предам одну свою мечту, пусть и не самую заветную, и не самую важную, но мечту. А предав однажды, предашь и дважды, и потеряешься за бытом и суетой. Нельзя в этой жизни успеть всего, но очень важно успевать туда, где тебя ждут…
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