11 Авг 2015

Вступление.

Греция стала первой страной моего большого Балканского путешествия, которую я проехала в одиночку на велосипеде. И как на первую страну, на нее пришлись и первые переживания и волнения, первые большие нагрузки, и первые яркие впечатления от ранней весны в Балканских горах, и даже первые слезы от усталости. Имея большой опыт зарубежных велопоходов в качестве руководителя, опыт одиночного велопутешествия стал для меня новой страницей в жизни, которую возможно я только начинаю писать. И этот отчет мне хочется сделать более человеческим, чем техническим. Потому что и поход этот был для меня важен более по-человечески, нежели по-велосипедному. Приятного знакомства с моей дорогой по Северной Греции.

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День 1. 12 апреля. Барнаул - Салоники.

(аэропорт - г.Салоники, 15.8км, 50м набор высоты.)

Денек выдался не из коротких. Утром я ещё просыпалась в Барнауле, а засыпала в северной Греции, в приморском городе Салоники на берегу Эгейского моря.

Первое, что встретило меня в Греции – это самолет Эгейских Авиалинии, который оказался почти пустым и тихим (Пасха! Местные улетели домой раньше, а туристический сезон ещё не начался), а стюардессы очень и очень улыбчивыми, я даже подумала, что старший стюард рассказывает им анекдоты.

Аэропорт Салоников был пустынный и молчаливый. За окнами светило нежаркое послеобеденное солнце и пахло цветами. И никого вокруг. На улице, как специально, в тени под козырьком стояла лавочка, идеальная для сборки велосипеда. Собирала я его около 2 часов, основательно и не торопясь – почти все было целым. Немного погнули диск на переднем колесе, который так и не удалось снять безболезненно, и лопнула оплетка троса на заднем переключателе, но это практически не повлияло на работоспособность. В остальном велосипед доехал просто идеально! Первый повод для волнения миновал, и я отправилась в центр города.

За 1:15 я добралась до забронированного отеля. Дорога совсем простая, но трафик довольно существенный. Почти сразу от аэропорта началась выделенная полоса для автобусов и мопедов, по которой я и ехала, глядя во все глаза по сторонам и одновременно пытаясь засечь цвета светофоров, которых мне попалось несколько десятков – слишком не разгонишься. Крупные магазины и торговые центры – закрыты, работают маленькие киоски и некоторый общепит. В просвет улицы издалека увидела море в закатных лучах и покачивающиеся корабли. Но понимание, что сначала надо найти жилье, а потом идти на запах моря, пересилило – а зря! Не нужно отказывать себе в таких порывах…

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Мой отельчик – сарай сараем с адской лестницей вверх, но с (на удивление) чистым бельем, а это главное. Да и лучше отдельный номер в сарае, чем чудесная кровать в общаге. Тем более тут ещё и дешевле. После перелетов и переездов голова гудит. Выпила пару бокалов воды прям из под крана (в аэропорту купить было негде, а обезводилась я сильно), помылась в общем душе и стала вновь человеком. Даже спать раздумала и отправилась таки гулять на ночную набережную – я так соскучилась по запаху моря! Соленый морской ветер, далекие ночные огни кораблей, покидающих бухту, и равномерные медитативные удары волн о причал - ничем в жизни невозможно заменить море…

На набережной в порту сделано место для отдыха горожан: несколько кафе, пешеходные дорожки, потрясающий вид на ночной город, огибающий залив. Очень красиво! Так как сейчас затяжные выходные – на набережной много гуляющих горожан.

До моего приезда целый месяц в Греции лили дожди, и, судя по ещё маленьким цветочкам и листикам, весеннее тепло пришло сюда недавно, но многие деревья уже вовсю цветут. А значит я как раз вовремя.
По возвращению в отель в кафе на первом этаже покушала миской зеленого салата, хлебом и кофе – не самая сытная еда, но тяжелее пока не лезет. Пообщалась с девушкой на кассе, говорящей по-русски, девушка полу грузинка, полу гречанка, с очень интернациональной семьей.

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На ресепшене отеля мне сказали, что завтра (в понедельник) тоже выходной и магазины, где можно купить мой вид газовых баллонов, не откроются – и это подстава! Так как без газа полевые ночлеги становятся несколько под вопросом, но в этот момент я думала, что шансы отыскать газ для своей горелки ещё есть…

 

День 2. 13 апреля. Тяжелое начало.

(Салоники - Литохоро, 109.8км, 6:38чхв,  876м набор высоты.)

Светает тут поздновато, в 6:30, так что пока я паковалась – выехала только в 8 утра, перекусив только гемотогенкой и куском «самолетной» булочки, наивно подумав, что поем через пару часов где-нть по дороге. Как же я ошибалась!

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Проехала по набережной до Белой башни. Набережная симпатичная, много бегунов, как ни странно в основном пенсионеры. В порту удивлялась, что стоят только маленькие лодочки, а отъехав чуть дальше и обернувшись, увидела, что на самом деле там стоит гигантский круизный лайнер, размером с дом (вот уж точно, большое видится на расстоянии). Никогда не видела таких больших – как они только плавают!

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Не торопясь поехала из города, и тут начались приключения! Задолбавшись искать по пром. зоне выезд из города, вывалила все-таки на платную зеленую трассу, но мне же, как велосипедисту, по ней нельзя! И я, как честный человек, в поисках альтернативы ушла на второстепенку, gps-трек по которой прорисовала ещё дома. Дорога отличная – пустая, и только один ньюанс – псы-охранники, которые охраняют пустынные из-за праздников мастерские, фабрики и другие мелкие хозяйства, и часто не привязаны на цепь, да ещё и кучкуются по несколько особей вместе. Пережила пару очень и очень неприятных моментов, учитывая полное отсутствие машин и людей на дороге на пару километров, но всё обошлось. Я даже выработала тактику, которая пригодилась мне в последующем на протяжении всего похода – замедляться и очень ласково и спокойно разговаривать. Но все-таки будущие велотуристы одиночки – бойтесь быть покусанными! Особенно яркие впечатления пережила, когда 4 крупных пса бежали с лаем навстречу у пустующей фермы. Миновала…

Но на этом приключения не закончились. Мост на дороге оказался разрушенным и вода хлестала через дорогу, да так, что безопасно не перейдешь. От машин место заранее отгорожено насыпью, чтоб не ездили. Вот и приехали!

Мудрила-мудрила над gps-картой, объездов нет, и поехала назад по направлению к своей зеленой платной трассе (честность все-таки иногда мешает нормально жить). Как же были рады те 4 пса!

Нашла свороток, который должен выходить к моей зеленой трассе, чтоб не возвращаться почти 10км, но съезда не оказалось - она пересекала зеленую под мостом, ещё и подтопленным по самые втулки, и уходила в другую сторону. Прокатившись по ней вброд туда-сюда, измучав найденного таки рядом фермера, который сказал, что мне надо забираться на зеленую хоть как и вариантов нет (хоть через забор с колючей проволокой и оградительный ров с водой), я все-таки нашла выезд на зеленую! Ура!

Вскоре случился первый толл (место для сбора денег с машин за пользование дорогой), на котором меня пропустили спокойно и не взяв платы, хотя должны были вроде снять – но снимать меня было просто некуда! Другой дороги рядом нет.

Недостатком этой чудесной зеленой трассы является полное отсутствие какой-либо инфраструктуры, поселки и деревни она не пересекает. И даже красивые туалеты оказались закрыты на замок – неужели у них тоже Пасха? Так что мои надежды покушать через пару часов не оправдались. Хорошо хоть вода с собой была. Как же все-таки тяжело (и ненавистно) выезжать из мегаполисов!

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На втором толле меня все-таки сняли с трассы. Парень открыл калитку с 25 железными ступеньками вниз, ведущую на дублирующую дорожку. На что я, повернувшись к нему на чисто русском сказала: «парень, ну ты красава! но где я со своим груженым конем и где эта лестница?». На что он даже помог спустить велосипед, заверив, что эта дорога не кончится, как предыдущая. И я с облегчением поехала по чудесной второстепенной дорожке, преимуществом которой является почти полное отсутствие трафика – и деревни по дороге, а недостатком – то, что она конечно сильно длиннее и холмистее, на ней нет внятных указателей и трудно ориентироваться на развязках, так что путь у меня был нескучный. Каждый раз, приближаясь к зеленой трассе, я начинала бояться, что сейчас на очередной развязке уйду не туда. Европейские дороги плюс греческий менталитет при их строительстве та ещё смесь… Но сегодняшний день надо было просто пережить, дальше горы, малоальтернативные дороги и все будет хорошо!

Умотавшись и голодная, в первой же деревне я сначала решила попить в кафешке кофе – не то что бы я решила, просто еды там не было, а до следующего работающего кафе в этой цивилизованной стране в Пасху я могла и не дотянуть). Но тут был действительно хороший вареный кофе. И 6 пожилых греков, также как я, пьющих кофе и смотрящих на меня, как на инопланетянина). Чем-то это напомнило мне картину из какого-нибудь старого вестерна: палящее полуденное солнце, тенистая деревенская таверна с мухами и пошарпанными столиками. С одной стороны 6 очень пожилых греков, молчаливо прекративших пить кофе и смотрящих на меня, с другой стороны я, пытающаяся отдышаться от велосипеда, глупо улыбающаяся и оглядывающаяся: может все-таки смотрят не на меня)). Но даже улыбка не смягчила их недоуменных лиц). Им будет о чем поговорить, когда я допью и уеду. Обожаю такие моменты общения без слов)! Да и кофе был чудесен! 

Следом, наконец, нашла и работающий магазин, где купила больших круасанов (с две ладони длинной) и йогурт типа нашего кефира. Почти час просидела в тени кушая и отдыхая, взяла ещё круасанов в дорогу, а также большую консерву с фасолью – мало ли где закончится сегодняшний день! От поступления еды в организм даже голова закружилась. Круасаны “впитались” в организм и я двинулась дальше.

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Дорога шла постоянными горками. А вокруг все цветет и много фермерских хозяйств.

Литохоро случился со мной на 110км пути. Перед городом набор высоты метров 300.

В Литохоро приехала сильно уставшая! Многовато переживаний и километров для первого дня, и маловато еды для такого километража.

Пытаюсь заселиться в первый же Парк-Отель на въезде, но на ресепшене пусто и внутри лает псинка. На помощь мне приходит пожилой грек Баби, с которым мы подружились на ближайшие дни в Литохоро. Он работает на заправке рядом – точнее это и есть его заправка. В ожидании хозяина отеля, он усаживает меня бледную и уставшую отдыхать, подкармливает конфетками, развлекает разговорами. В итоге звонит хозяину, и тот приходит меня селить. Номер, как всегда, сарай за 15 евро, но дешевле в Литохоро нет, а гостевые дома, как я узнаю завтра, ещё не работают. 

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Моюсь, отдыхаю, и заканчиваю свой боевой день шашлычками с гарниром и салатом. После голодного дня это счастье! Баби пытается отговорить меня ехать в горы радиалки на велосипеде и вместо этого прокатится на мотоцикле. Но я не соглашаюсь – да и ноги надо вкатывать, дальше меня ждут суровые перевалы, а места для лучше адаптации не придумать! Главное не переусердствовать.

День 3. 14 апреля. Первая «олимпийская» дневка.

(радиальный выезд на хребет Олимпа, 41км, 4:53чхв,  1445м набор высоты.)

Встать рано не получилось, так как соседи шумели и не дали быстро уснуть. Да и сплю я в отелях всегда плохо – энергетика в них всегда не ахти. Так что поднялась я только в 7:30, перекусила в номере круасанами и кефиром, собрала рюкзак с НЗ и выехала. Баби увидев меня, пожелал хорошей дороги и наказал быть осторожной. Этот дедушка, как будто чувствовал, что мне, отправившейся в первую свою большую вело-одиночку, сейчас так не достает этой человеческой и отеческой заботы! чтобы кто-то ждал меня вечером домой. Это чувство для меня самой, 10 лет живущей одной, стало сюрпризом! Через несколько дней это щемящее ощущение пройдет, а сейчас я очень благодарна моему бородатому пожилому греку.

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Литохоро - очень приятный и уютный городок с узкими улочками, подчиняющимися рельефу склона, на котором он вырос. Подъем как начался сразу у отеля и так и не заканчивался до 21 километра. Вначале было около 2км асфальта, а затем пошла отличная гравийно-грунтовая дорожка, где-то шире, где-то узкая, где-то с крупными камнями и вывороченными кусками скалы, а где-то совсем земляная, густо усыпанная листвой. Подъемы довольно крутые, даже на пустом велосипеде 1:1 едется на грани прокрута заднего колеса, виной тому и мои полуголенькие покрышки - швабли харрикейны, и «живые» камушки на дороге.

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Пару слов о том, что же за дорогой я еду. Это круговая дорога, которая идет длинным траверсом по склонам хребта Олимп. Когда-то это была старая дорога в деревню Старая Кранья, но теперь все ездят хорошим асфальтом вдоль побережья, и только полные извращенцы, местные фермеры и сумасшедшие велосипедистки используют эту ). Дорога сама по себе не имеет конкретных достопримечательных мест, кроме потрясающих видов на долину и на море, которое сливается с небом, и небо которое сливается с морем, и кажется, что за краем земли совсем ничего нет…

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Еду не торопясь – в такие горки особо и не заторопишься. Да и после Барнаульской зимы красота небывалая – то цветущие поляны, то суровые деревья, обвитые плющом, заснеженные вершины Олимпа, вырастающие над лесом, шумные ручьи, пересекающие дорогу – и ни души!!! Только ящерки-шуршунчики шуршат в прошлогодней листве.

Время от времени я останавливаюсь помедитировать на красивых обрывах, успокоить стук сердца, и, закрыв глаза, пропитаться весенним балканским ветром, дующим от моря до моря через хребты.
На 800 метрах суровый подъем прекратился и дорога надолго ушла в состояние «прыг-скок», а затем снова уверенно поползла вверх с небывалой силой. Последние метры дались уже тяжело – много крупных камней и очень круто, около 50-60 метров даже прошла пешком.

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Перед вершиной перекусила в безветренном месте любимыми гигантскими круасанами. Пока ела – даже замерзла, пришлось одеваться. На 1200м ветрено и вдоль дороги кое-где встречаются кусочки снега.
Спуск дался непросто, я итак довольно плохо спускаюсь, но тут и круто, и каменисто, и так около 12км. Устали кисти и стопы, часто останавливаюсь – благо есть на что посмотреть, например, на мою послезавтрашнюю дорогу – отчаянные асфальтовые кренделя и серпантины режут склон всего в нескольких километрах от моей грунтовки. Стою, смотрю на них и думаю: может чем отчаянней человек, тем отчаянней дороги он себе выбирает… Дороги в широком смысле… Главное не перестараться…

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Почти в конце спуска начался обещанный на сегодня дождик, но я уже выехала на грунтовку, ведущую в Литохоро. Попутно уточняю у дедушки-пастуха, доеду ли я по этой полутропе до своего города. Тут происходит забавный момент. Я довольно хорошо знаю английский, и пару слов греческого, но с пастухом я почему-то поздоровалась по-русски: «здравствуйте!». Как же я удивилась, когда улыбаясь во весь свой беззубый рот, дедушка радостно закричал: здравствуйте! После чего подряд выдал ещё 5 русских слов, которые знал видать со старой школьной программы! На этом словарный запас закончился. Вот так обменяешься с человеком улыбкой и взглядом – и уже не важно, русский ты или грек, все равно свой! Мы пожали друг другу руки, он подтвердил мне, что дорога верная и, выговорив «до свиданья», помахал рукой вслед.

P1140849  P1140800
Через 300 метров на ферме хозяин выходит отогнать от меня свою собаку, уточняет мне дорогу на развилке и желает доброго пути – его я ещё встречу послезавтра, когда буду срезать этой грунтовкой дорогу до своих асфальтовых кренделей на перевал.

Дорожка до города, надо сказать, атас! во всех отношениях, но зато короткая – не надо спускаться до моря 300 метров и подыматься их потом обратно. Вместо этого, надо спускаться и подыматься по развороченному ручьями и обвалами гравию с уклонами, подвластыми только трактору и сумасшедшим велосипедисткам)). Кстати, судя по всему, когда-то тут проводились соревнования – на камнях видела значки велочеловечков). Хотя может эти красные значки обозначали «тут пал в бою с собственным упрямством отчаянный велосипедист» )…

P1140899  P1140902

На этой прекрасной дорожке дождь перешел в ливень, и я, одевшись по-дождевому, заторопилась, пока совсем не расквасило – но тут очень к месту появился асфальтик и автобусная остановка. Пережидаю пик дождя под крышей в радостном настроении от красивейшего проката и от запаха дождя. До города просто долетела, а там совсем сухо – сюда тучки ещё не пришли, я их обогнала. Купила в маленьком магазине йогурт и круасаны для завтрака и поехала домой. Баби встретил меня волнуясь, со словами «Ну слава Богу, а я уже переживал за тебя! В горах же дождь! Отдыхай и приходи болтать!» Пока я завожу велосипед и моюсь – начинается дождь и в городе. Горячая вода приводит в чувства, ожившая и радостная отправляюсь кушать мясо с картошкой и салатом. Пока это именно та еда, которая нужна набирающему обороты организму. А после ужина снова отправляюсь к Баби на заправку болтать за жизнь.

Про Баби.

Баби около 60-65 лет, в прошлом он капитан корабля, у него был свой рыболовный трейлер, с которым он исплавал полмира. Супруга и дочь у него на Филлипинах (кстати именно филлипинцев он считает самыми добрыми в мире), а тут папа 90 лет, мама которая кормила меня конфетами и сын, занимающийся автосервисов и возящий туристов в горы в сезон. Английский у него свободный, лучше моего, но болтать совсем нетрудно, на второй день я уже ловила себя на мысли, что начинаю думать на английском фразами)

На второй день нашего знакомства Баби угостил меня яблоками и апельсинами (с моей экономией просто роскошь), сказав: «Ты улыбаешься, и мне от этого хорошо! Для меня важно оставить у тебя хорошие воспоминания, и тогда вспоминая обо мне, ты будешь хорошо вспоминать о моей стране!». А страной своей Баби очень гордится и любит. И тогда мне подумалось, может именно с этого начинается «Европа» в головах людей – оставить о себе хорошие воспоминания. Увы, я не успела сфотографироваться и по-теплому попрощаться с Баби – в день моего отъезда была не его смена и я не смогла его найти. Но свою задачу Баби выполнил, как нельзя лучше!

День 4. 15 апреля. Вторая «олимпийская» дневка.

(радиальный выезд на хребет Олимпа, 38км, 3:32чхв,  1370м набор высоты.)

Утром снова не могла проснуться, потому что уснула накануне в 8 вечера и переспала лишнего, встала в 7:30 с больной головой, долго собиралась и ела, и выехала только в 9:15. Но дневка ж – торопиться некуда. Как бы ехидно не звучало слово «дневка» в моем исполнении))).

P1140903  P1140917

Дорожка к базовому лагерю Олимпа хоть и асфальт, но очень приятная, уверенно ползет в гору до самых 1100м, затем сбрасывает около 150м и набирает снова, последние 2км без асфальта и очень узенькие. Сегодня ясно, но холодно, даже уши мерзнут, а так как крутишь в горку, то непонятно, то ли одеваться, то ли раздеваться. Но дороге много смотровых площадок и мест для отдыха. Виды везде хорошие – то с одной стороны море, с другой - горы, то наоборот. Ближе к верху ущелье становится узким и слышно, как шумит внизу по долине река, срываясь водопадами. Доезжаю до верха довольно резво. Там очень красивое кафе, интересно отделанное внутри, с камином (наконец тепло ушам!) и очень демократичными ценами, не отличающимися от цен внизу. Грею уши, пью кофе и иду погулять по треккинговой тропе, которая приходит сюда снизу из Литохоро.

P1140916  P1140935

P1140940  P1140958

Тропа конечно не дикая, а обихоженная, но очень симпатичная, кое-где с бревенчатыми ступеньками, гротами, мхами. Но если отступить от нее, то становится ещё красивее, и можно ближе полюбоваться перекатами чистой горной реки, которая образует между водопадиками так называемые «ванны Зевса».

P1140974  P1140995

На мостике у кафе прошу фотографа-туриста сфотографировать меня, за это он меня просит поучаствовать в его видео) и пройтись на камеру по мосту.

Нагулявшись, иду в кафе второй раз покушать уже более основательно греческим салатом и теплым хрустящим хлебом, так как время час дня. На месте местных жителей я сюда бы просто кушать ездила – настолько приятное место. После обеда прохожу ещё немного вверх по тропе к небольшому водопаду и возвращаюсь к пристегнутому велосипеду.

P1140989  P1140997

Спускаюсь назад не торопясь, попутно набрав ещё некоторое количество метров высоты. Посередине дороги отдыхаю на смотровой площадке сытая и довольная.

Ещё полтора часа и я в городе, отдыхаю, моюсь и иду прогуляться до центральной площади. Городок этот маленький, но неимоверно уютный и красивый, с ухоженным городским парком и красивой церковной звонницей. Покупаю сыр и хорошую карту Греческой Македонии, которая очень выручит меня в дальнейшем. С бумажной картой легче ориентироваться на разных второстепенных дорогах, чем просто с GPS.

P1150018  P1150022

День 5. 16 апреля. Когда же будет «вниз».

(Литохоро - Кранья - Элассола, 75,6км, 7:00чхв,  1856м набор высоты.)

Очередной ходовой день выдался очень и очень суровый. Встала в 6:30, ела и собиралась опять долго, в итоге выехала только в 8 утра, не сразу нашла выезд на нужную дорогу – все заканчивалось лестницами, которые я легко преодолела позавчера с пустым велосипедом, но не сейчас с груженым. В итоге выехала на ту самую суровую каменистую грунтовку. 11 км по ней дались очень тяжело! Заболело колено, плохой знак – все-таки только начало похода, но видать два дня с суровыми наборами не дали мышцам отдыха. Думала, выйду на асфальт с грунта повыше, но сбросила перед перевалом высоту до 200 метров, и уже устала, а ещё ничего не началось!

P1150030  P1150032

Села на обочине, съела яблоко, подаренное Баби, вспомнила его добрым словом и покрутила вверх.

P1150038  P1150035

Господи, кто проектировал в Греции дороги!? Подъемы очень крутые для асфальта. 800 метров набрала дорога на 11км, это почти 80м на 1км, для асфальта много! потому и упиралась на 1:1, что психологически тяжеловато. И тут вспоминая позавчерашние мысли, я подумала, что отчаянные дороги - это дороги, на которых даже отчаянные люди начинают испытывать отчаянье).

Доехала до предполагаемой вершины в 1000м. Отдохнула, но вершина очень относительная, как и все вершины в этой части Греции). До деревни Кранья дорога все-таки скинула 200 метров высоты. В Кранья я нашла работающее кафе (чудо! учитывая время сиесты) и села обедать греческим салатом, давая заодно и болящему колену отдохнуть. За это время начался очень сильный встречный ветер, а дорога снова поползла в гору в очередной перевал, в который я уже еле-еле заползла, думая, что он уже никогда не настанет. Нужно сказать, что дорога очень и очень красивая – снежный Олимп как на ладони, сопровождает меня весь путь, но сколь она красивая – столь и сложная.

P1150058  P1150060

Даже моих морально волевых сил недостает, и я принимаю решение не лезть снова с асфальта на запланированные грунты с непонятными наборами высоты, срезая дорогу через фермы, а ехать в Дескати через Элассолу асфальтом – длиннее, но вернее! Тем более, трафика на дорогах нет, только перед самой Элассолой случаются 9км загруженной трассы вниз. Скидываю много метров и встаю палаткой бесплатно на территории хорошего эко-отеля в километре не доезжая до города, в парке у речки. Денег не берут, разрешают воспользоваться туалетом, а мне большего и не надо.

P1150073  P1150069

Стою на ромашковом поле, рядом хвойный лес, я отгорожена от трассы рекой и стеной строящегося домика. Что ещё для счастья надо? Правильно, покушать. Ужинаю фасолевой консервой, разведенным водичкой картофельным пюре ещё из дома, догоняюсь сухим соком и печеньем – и без газа и костра выжить можно, имея только холодную воду). Вообще полдня сегодня прошло с мыслью «Господи, дай сил мне туда заехать» и «Какого хрена я тут делаю на велике», но к вечеру всё-таки отпустило)). Завтра задача доехать до Метеоров. Надо очень стараться! Но при этом главное не перестараться )))

День 6. 17 апреля. Дорога к храму.

(Элассола - Дескати - Метеоры (Кастараки), 92км, 7:56чхв,  1788м набор высоты.)

Ночью спалось так себе, мышцы никак не хотели расслабляться, хотя выспалась. Утром перекусила, не торопясь собралась, попрощалась с хозяевами и выехала. И началось!

Холмы-холмы! До Дескати на 40км случилось 2 перевала, затяжных и снова с штормовым встречным ветром. Дескати сам стоит почти на втором перевале. Ехать внутрь города в гору в поисках нормальной еды не было ни моральных ни физических сил, и я засела обедать в большой пекарне рядом с заправкой. Выпила два кофе и слопала 2 больших слойки с творогом. Как и вчера в обед, от усталости еле запихивала в себя еду даже запыхиваясь, поэтому как и вчера специально растягиваю время, давая себе отдыхать и выравнивать дыхание. Засекаю специально по часам, чтоб отдыхать не менее часа.

«Куда ж она столько берет?», - разговаривали водители с хозяйкой, глядя на мою тарелку с огромными слойками. «Голооодная!» - сочувственно и трогательно ответила хозяйка, глядя как я это методично жую. Чтобы понять этот диалог, не потребовалось знание греческого)).

Глядя на меня, ещё и путешествующую одну, добрая молодая хозяйка, принесла в подарок пироженку и большую конфету! Такая забота очень приятна.

Дорога сегодня по-прежнему красива, от Олимпа я после обеда уехала, но на горизонте начал вырастать другой зубастый заснеженный хребет – горы Пинда.

P1150075  P1150077

После Дескати я опять ждала дороги вниз и опять не дождалась, чуть подсбрасывая высоту, дорога прыгает с холма на холм – сбилась в количестве таких холмов. Ещё и просто штормовой ветер в лицо с самого утра и моё сильно болящее колено. В общем, сегодняшний день учит философски относиться к жизни). Используя старый проверенный метод – задираю сидение на максимум, чтоб тянуться ногой самыми пальчиками. Так колену ехать полегче, но все равно ещё болит, но уже послезавтра все будет хорошо!

Доехала до отвилки, ведущей на «затылочную» дорогу на Метеоры. Думала, ехать ли ей или объезжать трассой крюк, уж слишком я устала от перевалов, – и в итоге решила ехать. Как бы ни было тяжело – не для того я приехала в Грецию, чтоб пилить трассами, пусть и полупустыми. Хотя сил у меня откровенно говоря не было, и я знала, что дорога будет высоко карабкаться на хребет, - загадала, что если совсем не смогу – встану с палаткой у обочины, запас еды и воды почти есть, доеду до Метеоров завтра.

P1150081  P1150084

Доехала до первой мелкой деревушки – солнце палит нещадно. Зашла в магазинчик выпить холодной газировки, остыть, отдохнуть и купить резервную консерву с фасолью на вечер. Заодно пообщалась с местным пожилым греком, который, очень харизматично жестикулируя, одними только жестами выспросил у меня половину моей жизни – а вы говорите «языковой барьер»)). Узнав, что деток у меня нет, эмоционально сказал (на чисто греческом, но смысл был очевиден) ): так какого ж фига ты тут делаешь? Тебе надо дома детей нянчить, а не на велике по пампасам рассекать)).

Я с ним, разумеется, согласилась))) и поехала дальше. А дорожка моя поползла вверх теперь уже без перерывов все с тем же адским уклоном и штормовым ветерком в лицо. В какой-то момент силы и калории совсем закончились и я все-таки пошла пешком – единственный раз за поход, решив что дотяну таки 2км до следующей маленькой деревеньки на карте – и после нее уже точно буду искать место, где вставать на ночлег. В горку против ветра даже шлось сурово.

P1150090  P1150102
И вот уже подходя к деревушке я понимаю, что она стоит на вершине моего перевала, и дальше дорога идет по хребту полого и вниз до самых Метеоров! То есть я сегодня точно доеду! Трудно даже описать, как мне стало чудесно на душе от мысли, что все трудности дня позади! Так чудесно, что я села на медитативную лавочку на вершине с видом на Фессалийскую долину и мои скалы останцы вдалеке, и ушла в себя на 30 минут восстанавливая дыхание, сознание и просто испытывая большое человеческое удовлетворение от проделанной работы.

Дорога от перевала до Метеоров около 15км идет по самому верху хребта, и штормовой ветерок, ставший теперь боковым-правым, так сильно норовил меня с него сдуть, что приходилось ложится набок и выписывать зигзаги по дороге, борясь с ветром, – благо машин нет. Зато к Метеорам я заехала с самой красивой стороны, куда туристы, приезжающие в нижние деревни, как правило, идут пешком, либо едут на арендованном транспорте. И мне бы спускаться, да искать ночлег – время уже совсем вечер, а тут красота такая на каждом углу, что невозможно не останавливаться. И я зависла ещё на час, наслаждаясь теплым вечерним светом, окутывающим скалы, вековые монастыри, дорогу, долину, и кажется что и меня…

P1150116  P1150124

Посидев у каждого красивого поворота, я спустилась в ближайшую деревушку Кастараки и сразу же нашла дешевый гестхаус с очень доброжелательными хозяевами и очень чистыми уютными номерами. Переоделать, помылась и накатил «отходняк»: ещё два часа трясло и тошнило от усталости. Отпивалась сладким соком, чтоб повысился сахарок в крови, и только перед сном смогла потихоньку покушать.

Дома иногда тебе говорят: как же здорово вот так ездить! А ты всегда подтверждаешь «ага!», и очень редко кто рассказывает, чего порой это стоит… и сколько раз тебе самой себе приходится отвечать на вопрос «зачем»...
Но трудности стираются, а силы копятся, и яркие впечатления и воспоминания остаются. А завтра у меня дневка без велосипеда!!!

День 7. 18 апреля. Метеоры.

В Греции существует два вида горластых животных – петухи и кукушки. Сегодня утром они орали хором!

Завтрак в отеле был суров своими объемами: омлет, двойной тост с вечиной-сыром, сметана, 2 больших куска хлеба с маслом-вареньем и кексик, и кофе и сок. В общем как в санатории). Торжественно упихала в себя всё – организму надо помогать восстанавливаться. Мне кажется, я была первая в этом отеле, кто съел всё)). После такого завтрака организм захотел полежать, а не идти на поиски приключений – пришлось себя уговаривать).

P1150127  P1150142

Постирала вещи, разложила сушиться палатку на балкон и вышла из отеля без четкой цели, в какую сторону пойду. Территория, на которой расположены монастыри Метеоры – довольно обширная. Большинство туристов начинают путь от более крупной соседней деревни Калампака, либо на автобусах, либо на арендованных машинах, либо пешком. Можно было выйти и от моей Кастараки – но тогда я б частично повторяла свой вчерашний спусковой путь, чего мне не хотелось.

Но за меня все решила судьба, а если точнее – то моя чудесная молодая хозяйка.

В отступление скажу, что больше всего мне везет на пожилых греков и молодых женщин, первые испытывают ко мне отеческие чувства, а вторые, судя по всему, материнские. Но и те и другие – очень тепло и уважительно относятся.
Только я вышла из гостиницы и пошла по дороге в Каламбаку, как из мимо проезжающей машины высунулась хозяйка и, спросив, куда я, сказала: садись, я дочку везу к маме, подкину тебя до центра Каламбаки. Ох, если бы водители пикапов вчера на перевале были столько же услужливы )) !! В дороге поболтали с ней о моем путешествии, дальнейших планах и поведении дочи за завтраком)).

P1150145  P1150150

В Каламбаке я отправилась вверх по пешеходной тропе, ведущей из Фессалийской долины на холмы мимо огромных скал. Тропа красивая и спокойная, ни одного туриста мне на ней встретить не удалось, а вышла она прям к монастырю Святой Троицы. Наверх ведет рубленая в скале лестница. Сейчас раннее утро и народу внутри почти никого. А сам монастырь маленький, солнечный и очень тихий. Косые лучи пробиваются в окна. Веет ветерок, и пахнет ладаном. Ставлю свечу и наворачиваются слезы – непростая дорога меня сюда привела…

P1150153  P1150157

На меня этот монастырь произвел самое большое впечатление, может потому что тут было именно то, что и должно быть в храмах – тишина и покой. И то, что исчезает с появлением горластых толп туристов, большая часть из которых другой веры и могут позволить себе быть развязными. Следом дошла до Варлаама. Внутри пространство для церемоний, в которое пускают туристов – достаточно однотипно, только здесь ещё сохранилось колесо, которым когда-то подымались наверх сети с грузами и монахами. Но гам и суета не дают почувствовать тут ни-че-го. К тому же в храме активно идет стройка. В остальные монастыри я не заходила, только поднималась по лесенкам и осматривала снаружи территорию. Не хотелось портить то первое ощущение чистоты и покоя.

P1150175  P1150194

Вернулась в гостиницу бодрая, но голодная, остыла и пошла плотно кушать. А после отправилась в мини-маркет купить консерву, молока и круасанов. И тут случилось событие, которого я никак не ожидала в Греции. Фактически у меня на глазах парень спер из холодильника РедБул и уехал не расплатившись. Вот вам и Европа! Воспользовался тем, что продавщица старенькая бабулька.

P1150180  P1150184

Вечером я копалась с картами и просто валялась. День отдыха, который был так нужен – удался. Сердце успокоилось, колено подзажило. Можно ехать дальше.

День 8. 19 апреля. Покидая Фессалийскую долину.

(Метеоры (Кастараки) - Гревена, 68км, 5:10чхв,  1145м набор высоты.)

Собралась ещё с вечера, поэтому встала в 7:30 под уже традиционный красивый колокольный звон, который часто будит меня в Греции. За полчаса дособирала рюкзак и привязала на велосипед и отправилась завтракать. Снова «узавтракалась» так, что понадобилось полежать 20 минут. В итоге выехала только в 9 утра.

P1150210  P1150215

Погода стояла хорошая, хоть и было видно, что вдалеке дымка из туч, но дождик за весь день так и не пошел. Подъем из Фессалийской долины 20км шел довольно плавно и только потом пошел в перевал, снова сделав отметку в 900м. Пейзажи сегодня очень интересные. Сама долина широкая, а дорога идет по верху хребта, не спускаясь слишком вниз, поэтому обзор такой большой, что его не берет фотоаппарат. Порой пейзажи напоминают Тоскану, а порой типичные российские лиственные леса ранней весной.

P1150220  P1150224

А вот и знак «осторожно медведи». Ради него одного стоит ехать в Гревену. Зверю тут есть где разгуляться – много заповедных территорий и пустые безлюдные межгорные котловины с хвойными и лиственными лесами, оврагами и ручьями. Мне, правда, медведи дорогу не переходили. Зато докопался какой-то греческий тип, три раза пытался меня остановить с недвусмысленными предложениями, но все обошлось. Но я напряглась. Возможно, лучше б это был медведь, подумала я тогда). Ангел пролетая мимо меня услышал мои мысли и записал в список пожеланий).

P1150234  P1150237

Дорога, поднявшись в перевал, долго шла по хребту не сваливая, и только к каньону реки спустилась с хребта. Каньон живописный, но не в это время года и не в эту хмурую погоду. Ещё и мусора многовато. Из каньона дорога выбрала метров 150-200 наверх и начался въезд в Гревену. Приехала в город я уже в 15:00, получилась почти полудневка. Заселилась не очень бюджетно, но тут и вариантов нет, городочек совсем маленький, даже погулять после обеда оказалось толком некуда, так что отдыхаю и набираюсь сил.

День 9. 20 апреля. К голубым водам Кастории.

(Гревена - Кастория, 81км, 5:26чхв,  1079м набор высоты.)

Утро было холодным и дождь шел сплошной пеленой, непонятно то ли дождь, то ли туман. Первые 2 километра выезда были сильно не очень – мокро, плохая видимость, ещё и батарейки в gps сели прям на принципиальной развилке, пришлось менять прям под ливнем. Но после развилки с платной трассой моя дорога стала совсем пустынной. Вообще, пустые греческие дороги – это приятный шок для меня, иначе не скажешь. Например, в том же Китае если платную трассу дублирует второстепенная, то она забита до отказа. Здесь же все наоборот. Локальный трафик между деревушками такой маленький, что ощущение, что его нет вовсе.

P1150248  P1150252

Через пару часов дождь прекратился, и осталась просто общая промозглость и сырость. Дорога сегодня не слишком надо мной издевается, и, забравшись на хребет, в основном идет им, скача в пределах разумного. Деревень по краям практически нет, а если есть, то далековато от своротков, и ехать за едой в них лениво. Так что я осваиваю новый тип питания – кантина! Звучит это как-то по-испански). Это такой придорожный фургончик, где грек в переднике колдует с кофеем и аналогами хот.догов. У такой штуки я и поела, попутно забавно поболтав с местными парой водил:

Он: - погода сегодня холодная

Я: - ага, паршивая,

Он: - а как вам лучше ехать, когда жарко или когда холодно?

Я: - лучше, когда на машине! )) 

Мужики посмеялись).

P1150264  P1150266

Поела надо сказать очень плотно. Правда грек-волшебник в переднике почему-то решил, что мне нужен холодный кофе, и это при том, что изо рта шел пар). Но мало ли какие у нас-иностранцев причуды). Когда я увидела, что он кидает в стаканчик лед – остановила и объяснила). Вылил и переделал не взяв лишних денег.

После обеда выглянуло таки солнце и в Касторию я въехала в 15:00 при ясной погоде. Долго искала более менее бюджетное жилье в этом малость пафосном городе. В итоге девочка в киоске с помощью гугл-транслейта объяснила мне, что за 100 метров не доезжая следующего светофора я найду дешевый отель. И я его нашла, только вот велик мой внутрь не пустили – побоялись что испорчу интерьер, оставили его ночевать на улице прям на проходном тротуаре, пристегнутым к двери отеля, обещая что все будет хорошо. Надеюсь металлические круги на двери моего отеля сделаны не из ободов украденных велосипедов…

P1150285  P1150290

Времени навалом и я отправилась гулять по Кастории. На что я не люблю и не понимаю города, но этот город очень понравился – светлый, солнечный, с голубой водой озера и чудесной набережной с птичками. Поднялась к часовой башне. Башня не впечатлила, а вот жилые кварталы с лестницами и невообразимыми уклонами дорог – очень впечатлили.

День 10. 21 апреля. И снова большие перевалы.

(Кастория - Флорина, 92км, 7:20чхв,  1737м набор высоты.)

С утра смазывала цепь, чем вызвала удивлении у тетеньки на ресепшене и её друга. Они меня возбужденно и недоуменно спросили: «и что, Вы ЭТО! каждый день и ним делаете?». Не знаю, успокоила ли их, сказав, что мы с ним ЭТИМ раз в 4 дня примерно занимаемся). Хотя, честно сказать, смазывала цепь первый раз после аэропорта).

Выехала в 8:30. На улицах утренней Кастории, спешащей на работу, полный кипишь, но проезжаешь 500 метров в сторону – и пустота!

P1150298  P1150307

Тут нужно сказать пару слов о моей сегодняшней дороге – это старая дорога до Флорины, которая идет через высокий перевал 1800м, на котором сделана горнолыжка Витси. Дорога эта нарисована на картах основательной и асфальтовой и у меня были все основания полагать, что она действующая, так как зимой на горнолыжку ездят туристы. Но по факту чистят её только от Кастории, а от Флорины дорога оказалась забита снегом, не чищена и никому не нужна, но об этом я узнаю позже, а пока от города почти сразу начинается очень крутой подъем. Несмотря на обещанную хорошую погоду, тучи тяжелые. Под них и традиционный сильный встречный ветер я и подымаюсь первые очень крутые километры. В деревне наверху вижу развилку на дорогу выводящую другим перевалом на красную федеральную трассу во Флорину – и запоминаю её на случай, если мне придется возвращаться. Но уточняю у местного, есть ли дорога от Витси до Флорины, и он говорит что есть, и я относительно спокойно еду дальше.

P1150317  P1150315

От деревни меня начинает сопровождать большой белый пес, что для греческих псов довольно странно), даже не гавкнул на меня, тихонько бежал позади несколько километров, ждал, пока я отдыхала, и снова бежал. Но может это мудрый пес, и он, вместо лая, ждал, пока силы мои иссякнут, чтоб спокойно меня съесть. А может просто в кои-веки у пса проснулась совесть, и он решил поохранять одинокую девушку в горах. Но перед крайней деревней Оксия и его сдуло с дороги ураганным ветром. Оксия деревня интересная тем, что тут встречаются саманные и каменные дома, не похожие на другую Грецию. Но деревня эта оказалась для меня точкой возврата. На 1200м высоте за 600м (по высоте) до перевала меня тормозит единственная встречная машина и местный дяденька уточняя, что я собираюсь во Флорину, говорит, что снега по пояс и не проехать, надо объезжать по трассе. Грустно, но оснований ему не верить у меня нет, и я разворачиваюсь и скидываю 300 метров до деревни с примеченной развилкой. Суровая заснеженная гора меня не пропустила.

P1150322  P1150330

В деревне, укрывшись в остановке от ветра, ем гемотогенку. Подъезжает дедушка тракторист и на греческом спрашивает, что мне подсказать. Уточняю у него, доеду ли я отсюда до развилки на трассу на Флорину, и он говорит: «да! хорошая дорога!». А я то вижу, что эта хорошая дорога будет сейчас метров 300-400 взбираться на хребет серпантинами. Но она оказалась реально хорошая! Хоть полдороги и без асфальта, подъемы довольно плавные и заехались на удивление легко, а потом долго и плавно вниз. И наконец, выглянуло солнце.

В километре от трассы заехала в пекарню отдохнуть от моего верного попутчика – штормового ветра, ем два кофе, булку с сосиской и сладкую слойку. И вновь молодая хозяйка, глядя на меня голодную и взъерошенную от ветра, пакует мне ещё пару кунжутных батонов бонусом. Спасибо доброй тётеньке!

P1150337  P1150347

А мне ещё 50км до Флорины с перевалом неопределенной высоты в районе другой горнолыжки с неприличным названием Писодери. Как потом оказалось, от моего обеда до перевала было ещё более 800 метров набора…

Надо сказать, трасса опять совсем пустынна и асфальт плохонький, то есть для велосипеда – самое то! Когда я на горизонте увидела белую стену хребта в снегу, то поняла, что простым перевал не будет. Он меня вымотал! Красивый, но очень высокий и третий за день, и на 71км пути. Это был перебор в нагрузке. Горнолыжка впечатления не произвела – ни о чем. А вот снега на обочинах на 1550м много.

Зато спуск к Флорине был просто головокружительный! Из одних закрытых поворотов!

P1150358  P1150361

Долина просматривалась ещё с перевала до самой Македонии.

Въехала в город я уставшая и эмоционально и физически, и снова спасибо добрым людям! Я обратилась к женщине с вопросом про недорогой отель. Та пыталась объяснять, но я по-гречески знаю всего два слова: «здравствуйте» и «греческий салат». Она остановила другую женщину, и та два квартала вела меня пешком до отеля! Респект греческим женщинам! Мое сердце у ваших ног)

А тем временем я нахожусь всего в 17км до границы с Македонией и сегодня мой крайний вечер в Греции.

P1150370

Есть время вспомнить и подвести итоги.

Греция далась неожиданно тяжело. Сказались и большие наборы высот, и два пропущенных года без велосипеда. Перед походом я много тренировалась, но все-таки никакие другие виды нагрузок не заменят сам велосипед.
Страна не самая демократичная в плане цен, зато порадовали пустые дороги, доброжелательные люди, чудесная погода (всего два дождика за 10 дней), хорошая еда, и бушующая повсюду ранняя весна с цветущими деревьями и умопомрачительными ароматами.

Из минусов весны – только сильный ветер и снег на высоких перевалах, который ставит под вопрос их проходимость. Но плюсы все-таки перевешивают.
А впереди ещё три страны и главное, чтоб хватило сил в ногах и в сердце...

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