30 Янв 2013

Один из самых авантюрных велопоходов в моей жизни - зимнее кольцо вокруг Иссык-Куля.

 
День   Км Набор
День 0 (29.12) Прибытие в Бишкек.    
День 1 (30.12) Балыкчи – горячий источник Бар-Булак. 65км 300м
День 2 (31.12) Бар-Булак – пер.Кескен-Бел (2100м) – Боконбаево – Тон – сухое ущелье 52км 700м
День 3 (01.01) Сухое ущелье – Каджи-Сай - Тамга – Кызыл-Суу (Покровка) 102км 500м
День 4 (02.01) Покровка – Каракол – Тюп 70км 340м
День 5 (03.01) Тюп – Кутургу – Семеновка 70км 380м
День 6 (04.01) Семеновка – Григорьевка – Чолпон-Ата – Чок-Тал – берег Иссык-Куля 66км 330м
День 7 (05.01) Чок-Тал – Балыкчи

70км

165м
День 8 (06.01)      
Игого:   495км 2800м

Иссык-«кульный» велопоход на Новый год.

 
sveta-glushkova feliks katya andrey olga
Света Глушкова
руководитель и
автор идеи
Феликс Косырев
помощник
руководителя
Катя Романова
фотосъемка
Андрей Новак
водонос
Ольга Колесникова
хранитель
колбасы

cartahi

Трек поездки с некоторыеми предварительными опортыми точками.

Авторы отчета: Глушкова Света и Романова Екатерина (выделено зеленым)

 Вступление.

Это была «идея на миллион долларов»! Я всегда мечтала сделать зимний велопоход. Но как его сделать без особого экстрима и с уверенностью, что я не поморожу людей? Как сделать его логичным маршрутом, имеющим идею и обоснование, а не просто «а не хапнуть ли нам горя в мороз фиг знает где, оттого что это круто?».

И тогда появилась идея «едем вокруг Иссыкуля!». Летом я бы тут не поехала – асфальт, туристы – скукота. А зимой снега почти нет, горы вокруг красивые, температуры умеренные, и почти «не заграница», а значит бюджетно. И всё сошлось! Время, команда и даже расписание поездов Барнаул-Бишкек-Барнаул.  Мы решились.

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Чтобы придумать встретить Новый год на озере Иссык-Куль в Кыргызстане, где, как и в Казахстане, в эту зиму аномально низкие температуры и вообще снег, и штормовые ветра, нужно быть взрослым человеком. И нужно быть адекватным человеком, чтобы придумать поехать вокруг него на велосипедах :) И вот незадача - желающие всё равно нашлись :)

Пятеро людей, объединённых общей целью небанального празднования наступления 2013 года, купили билеты на поезд Барнаул-Бишкек. Преодолеваем две государственных границы (Россия-Казахстан, Казахстан-Кыргызстан), четыре таможенных контроля, удивлённые взгляды и вопросы: "А это что? Велосипеды? Зачем? А вы знаете что там снег? А вы знаете какое расстояние вокруг озера? А сколько стоит велосипед? А что у вас вот в этом пакете? Вам платят за поездку? Вы спортсмены? А чо летом не поехали?"

Летом ездят все. А мы едем зимой, и как оказалось, даже киргизы не знают, что на самом деле вокруг озера, из-за его солёности, создаётся особый микроклимат и всегда примерно на 10 градусов теплее, чем в том же Бишкеке, из которого к озеру ведёт трасса через Боомское ущелье. Снега нет в юго-западной части вовсе. Про северо-восточную часть мы имели немного информации: большей частью виды с горнолыжного курорта в Караколе. Но это даже интересно - узнать, как там обстоят дела, и увидеть всю красоту одного из больших и глубоких озёр мира!

29 декабря. Бишкек-Балыкчи.

Поезд прибывал в Бишкек около 22 вечера. Мы заранее через Новосибирских посредников договорились о трансфере до Балыкчей и жилье в деревне в гостевом доме у местной учительницы Валентины – приветливой и доброй женщины. Таксист встретил и домчал нас быстро. Как и ожидалось снега в Балыкчах не было, что не могло не радовать. Нас встретили чаем, медом и супом, что было очень кстати. Сытые и уставшие после долгой дороги мы отправились спать.

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30 декабря.  Балыкчи – горячий источник Бар-Булак. Около 65км. Набор высоты 300м.

Погода стояла шикарная – сухо, солнечно и тепло. Собрав велосипеды, мы отправились в путь, попутно заехав на базар и закупившись лепешками, сыром и бальзамом. Феликс также взял бутылку меда у хозяйки, которую мы «пили» весь поход.

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Первый ходовой день был настолько солнечным и тёплым, что казалось нет ничего лучшего, чем 30го декабря ехать на велосипеде по асфальту и видеть огромные горы немного вдалеке. Абсолютно летнее настроение, расстёгнутые куртки и широкие улыбки, мы летели на восток. Первая часть маршрута проходила по южному берегу. Южный берег отличается меньшей заселённостью. Здесь мало деревень, редко встречаются пансионаты. И большая часть этих здравниц заброшенная.

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Иссык-Куль замерзает зимой лишь частично в северо-восточной своей части и иногда у берега немножко льдинок окажется. В целом, озеро остаётся притягательным водным объектом. Он так же, как и летом, сияет, плещется и пускает барашков. Точно так же, как летом. Только зимой. :) Температура волны плюс 4.

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В районе деревни Оттук мы съехали к берегу, чтобы пообедать чаем с сыром и лепешками и немного отдохнуть. Голубое озеро, соленый берег, прибрежный лед, белоснежные хребты Тянь-Шаня – такие пейзажи сопутствовали нашему обеду. А после с новыми силами отправились до деревни Бар-Булак, чтоб искать горячий источник. Учитывая, что ещё с поезда мы не мылись, - это было принципиальным :). Да и похоже это был единственный горячий источник на Иссык-куле, функционирующий зимой.

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В деревне нам сказали, что надо ещё проехать от 2 до 4км и будет поворот налево и спуск к источникам. На повороте указатель. Ехали мы ехали, ехали-ехали, и казалось он не появится никогда! Уже даже готовились ночевать «в чистом поле», но источников воды не было в округе, а в Барбулаке мы воды не набрали. В итоге наконец-то поворот возник. Но легче не стало, так как дорога к берегу озера шла не на спуск, а через перевал, и была ещё около 7км. Ну что ж :), значит надо поработать ещё немного. Зато как же был прекрасен закат! который мы встретили на вершине перевальчика. Розовые кромки хребта, розово-голубые воды озера и тишина!

Мы стремительно спустились вниз, уже в сумерках нашли самый дешевый вариант заселения в летних бунгало, перекусили – и отправились в горячие ванны! где отмокли и помылись на славу, забыв про ограничения времени. Этот длинный и трудный ходовой день того стоил!

P1080577

Темнеть в Иссык-Кульской области начинает около 17.30. Точнее, в это время начинается обалденный закат. И главное, оказаться в этот момент в нужном месте, чтобы рассмотреть его получше.

Есть, конечно, одна-две отличительных черты, которые формируют образ местности. В Кыргызстане, например, это лепёшки. Но ЗАКАТЫ и РАССВЕТЫ - это всегда КАК В ПЕРВЫЙ РАЗ. Захватывает, восхищает, поражает и хочется смотреть бесконечно! Ведь каждая следующая секунда не повторит цвет, тень и вообще красоту происходящего. И пусть кто-то едет за туманом, я буду ездить, чтобы увидеть зарю и закатное солнце в новом месте.

Бунгало были холодными, но мы были готовы и к этому, спальники + одеяла = жизнь удалась.

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Представьте на этом пляже сотню человек и расплавляющую жару. Скучно. Другое дело - пустынный берег, утки, которые разбудили нас кряканьем и, если бы горячий источник находился чуть ближе к озеру, мы бы остались там и купались бы попеременно в Иссык-Куле и источнике. Местечко под названием Барбулак. Ночёвка в летнем домике зимой нам обошлась в 30 сомов с человека. В сервис включена газовая плита, чайник и обогреватель, который разрешено включить на ночь в розетку. Но, т.к. электричество во многих посёлках отключают на ночь, то смысла в этом приборе нет никакого. Надышим.

31 декабря. Бар-Булак – пер.Кескен-Бел (2100м) – Боконбаево – Тон – сухое ущелье. 52км. Набор высоты 700м.

Утро снова было ясным, и, позавтракав, мы отправились гулять на озеро и фотографировать рассвет. Крякали стаи уточек, косячками перелетая с места на место, и хотелось сидеть тут в тишине, смотреть на воду, и никуда не уходить. Но у нас план! А значит на велосипед и вперед.

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31 декабря по плану у нас обязательная "дикая" ночёвка в палатках. Значит, никаких домиков, людей вокруг и желательно на берегу озера. Набрав немножко высоты для преодоления перевальчика, поглядели вдаль. Скоро дорога вновь из междугорья приблизится к берегу. Настолько близко, что ставить палатку у озера будет не совсем комфортно. Поедем, посмотрим. Ещё тортик нужно приготовить и закат поглядеть в нужном месте. Потом достать бенгальские огни и решить, по какому часовому поясу бьют куранты. Были предложения, как космонавтам, встречать новый год несколько раз: по московскому, по барнаульскому, и для страдающих бессонницей - по кыргызскому.

P1080623  P1080631

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Возвращаемся назад через перевальчик на основную трассу и начинаем ползти в основной перевал сегодняшнего дня. Сам перевал то вроде невысокий, но подъем туда ужасно «тягучий», и потому выматывающий. Вроде бы надо ехать. А оно совсем не едется, а еле ползется на небольших передачах. С утра у нас на ветру замерзают ноги, приходится останавливаться и разминать, но затем немного теплеет и теплеем мы.
Энергозатраты на холоде в разы больше, так как тело тратит много энергии на обогрев, и поэтому не смотря на плотный завтрак, мы быстро заголодали. И то и дело перекусывали лепешками и шоколадом (благо наша подруга Ксюша провожая подарила нам целый килограмм!), что спасает нас от голода и холода, - и едем дальше. И вот наконец-то перевал!

Поднимаемся к стеле с гепардом или барсом, чтоб сфотографироваться вместе, утепляемся, и улетаем на спуск.

IMGP7409  P1080654

Тянь-Шань окружает Иссык-Куль хребтами Кунгёй-Ала-Тоо на севере и Терскей Ала-Тоо на юге. Мы пока едем по южной части. В ущелья не сворачиваем, т.к. цель похода - не замёрзнуть в снегах, а проехать вокруг береговой линии, замкнув колечко. Не исключено, что кто-то из нас сюда ещё вернётся в другое время года и проедет где-то тааааам, по тропочкам хребта.

На спуске у Феликса лопается багажник. Лечимся подручными средствами, найденными на обочине дороги – и едем дальше.

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Жаны жылыныздар менен!
Никто из местных так ни разу нам не сказал. Зато от каждого ребёнка, который видел нас и умел говорить, мы слышали: "Хэллоу! Хэллоу!". "Хэппи нью ирррр!!".

Иногда мы молча косили под американцев и проезжали мимо, но когда ответишь им: "Привет!" или "Здрасьте", они очень удивляются. "Вы русские?" "Это хорошо" И угощают яблоками сверх уплаченной суммы. И настойчиво предлагают купить торт. Там вообще предновогодний культ тортов. Некоторые деревни даже называются Торт-Кул. Каждый уважающий себя киргиз покупает по два торта. Торты продаются на уличных базарах, из автомобилей прям на дороге и причём их гораздо больше, чем население деревень.

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То что мы будем праздновать Новый год однозначно в палатке – было решено ещё в Барнауле. Для этого мы подобрали берег Иссыкуля за Боконбаево и поселком Тон, там есть несколько красивых ущелий, в которых мы и планировали найти уютное местечко. Так и получилось. В Боконбаево мы покушали, доменяли денежек, набрали на колонке полную 10литровую канистру воды (из Иссык-Куля поду пить нельзя), и поехали искать своё ущелье. Место нашли просто потрясающее! Закрытое от глаз и ветра, с местом и под палатку и под стол с костровищем.
Мальчики остались ставить палатку и набирать колючек, а мы с Катей ушли на ближайшие горки и встретили потрясающий закат – последний закат уходящего года! И поспешили помогать парням. По пути увидели прекрасные колючки, которые могли бы стать нам новогодней ёлкой – но выкопать не смогли, слишком длинные корни – оставили расти их дальше.

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После Боконбаево дорога катапультировала нас на Марс. И благодаря многим космическим случайностям был найден наиболее подходящий закуток для размещения палаток, организации праздничного ужина и глобального уединения. В завершении тяжёлого года Вселенский Дед Мороз сделал очень тёплый и душевный подарок. ЗАКАТ, костёр и баночка манго :)

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Вечер был добрым и веселым. С самодельным тортиком, подарочками, байками и бенгальскими огнями, и теплым убаюкивающим ветром с ночного Иссык-Куля. Пожалуй, это был один из самых потрясающих вечеров в моей жизни! Уже ради этого стоило затевать всю эту авантюру.

1 января. сухое ущелье – Каджи-Сай - Тамга – Кызыл-Суу (Покровка). 102км. Набор высоты около 500м.

В несуществующий для некоторых день, 1 января, Природа немножко хмурилась. Справа расположились прекрасные "грандканьонные" красноглинистые горы, за которыми возвышались снежные вершины. Иссык-Куль очень шумел. На другом его берегу проглядывались очертания шикарных, не менее снежных, гор хребта Кунгёй Ала-Тоо. Пасмурность не позволила снять всё в прекрасном виде, но через два дня мы доберёмся к ним поближе.

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С утра небо было пасмурным  и сыпал небольшой снежок, окрестные деревни и пансионаты спали, магазины и лавочки не работали, и мы даже с трудом купили лепешек. На работающие кафешки надеется даже не приходилось, за все дни нашего путешествие мы их видели всего три раза :). Дорога была пустынной.

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Только к обеду мы нашли неплохой магазин (в п.Кичи-Жаргылчак), где купили целый мешок свеженьких эклеров, такой полный что он не завязывался, и отправились на берег – пообедать в красивом месте. Умолотив сходу целиком мешок, вернулись в магазин, купили ещё один – и радостные и сытые поехали дальше. Дальше дорога отходила от Иссыкуля и надеется на дикую ночевку уже не приходилось, так как перед Покровкой деревни идут одна за другой. Тут же я спросила мужиков – водителей фур о том, где можно дальше остановиться. Они дали ориентир на один потенциально-работающий пансионат, километров через 20, и сказали, что скорее всего это всё.

Едем дальше, стараясь не пропустить. Но увы! Указателя нет, расспросы местных показывают, что не работает. Делать нечего – едем дальше, осматриваясь, нет ли к кому попросится. Километров через 15 увидели одиноко стоящий дом с охранником. Он сказал, что встать с палаткой шансов дальше нигде нет – деревни, а частники не пустят - бояться, и что если можем терпели до Покровки, там точно есть гостиница. Решили терпеть, по расчетам до темноты успеваем, это ещё около 20км.

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И вот в последних сумерках мы въезжаем в Покровку, крупный поселок с довольно сильным трафиком на дорогах, ледовыми обочинами, и небезопасным движением на велосипеде в ночное время. И по закону подлости гостиница закрыта на ремонт. Дальше ехать сил уже нет, мы итак сегодня накатали соточку, и это 1 января!!! Поэтому пытаемся найти варианты тут. Ни больница, ни школа нас не пустили – бояться. Местные тоже непонять чего бояться, в кафешках тоже послали.

Стоим мы посреди ночного поселка, уже почти на выезде, уже готовые в темноте уезжать за поселок и вставать на обочине, как идет пожилой пьяненький дедушка, его ведет под руку жена. Он то нам и помог, - его совесть и воспитание не позволили оставить нас в беде, как бы не ворчала на него жена, пытаясь утащить домой.

Детская колыбелька. Единственная мебель в доме молодой семьи в Покровке, где мы волею судеб оказались  в первый вечер нового года.
Погодные и ландшафтные условия не позволили нам расположиться с палаткой и мы дали маху в населённый пункт, чтобы остановиться в гостинице. Оказалось, что она закрыта на ремонт. В глазах потемнело. Так всегда - только солнце сядет, сразу же становится темно и холодно.
Возле магазина старичок, которого жена тянула за рукав и отправляла домой, не остался равнодушным к нашей проблеме. "Холодно, - говорит, - и волки повсюду: не нужно в палатке ночевать. Сейчас найду вам жильё. Я бы и к себе пригласил, но (покосился на жену, которая уже отобрала у него авоськи с покупками и стоит грозно в сторонке), но у меня места совсем нет, некуда вам лечь будет."

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После цепочки разговоров и звонков со стариком и продавцом магазина, мы отправились за уже молодым человеком.

Небольшой домик: прихожая и одна комнатка, куда как раз помещаются только пятеро, лежащих на спине, туристов. Самое главное - печка! Молодой человек с женой и маленьким ребёнком, для которого и предназначена колыбелька, ушли к родителям в другой дом. Воду набирают в колонке. В тот вечер был самый вкусный ужин. А ночью нам был преподнесён сюрприз…

2 января. Покровка – Каракол – Тюп. 70км. Набор высоты 340 метров.

А по утру они проснулись! А нас завалило снегом. И если ещё вчера дороги были чистыми – то сегодня на них сугробы.

Утром мы увидели преобразование окружающего пейзажа. Если до этого впереди была осенняя дорога и пожелтевшие поля сбоку, то теперь всё стало по зимнему белым-бело! Снег выпал неслучайно. Ведь мы завершали южную часть маршрута и двигались на северный (полюс) берег.
Перед поездкой, одна моя подруга сказала: "Молодцы, что на Ыссык-Куль на велосипедах, там красиво! Но ведь вы точно не доедете до Каракола, ведь снег же". Я тогда не стала отвечать, что через горно-лыжный городок мы проедем наверняка, потому что полностью обогнём всё озеро вокруг. Но как ехать по снегу на гружённом велосипеде - не представляла. Ладно, как оказалось, ехать не страшно и легко, но, ещё и переночевать на снегу можно! И тут правильно употребить именно "ночевать", а не "спать", т.к. не до сна было местами. :)

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Сначала робко и аккуратно, а потом всё смелее и смелее, мы двинулись по обочине дороги по 5см снегу в путь. Подложка под снегом на обочине была хорошая, из мелкого камушка почти без мусора, поэтому катилось хорошо. Лишь когда попадался лед становилось не комфортно. Но скорость была довольно резвая. Ноги и руки подмерзали, но отогревались на остановках.  При этом светило солнышко и мы ехали к Караколу – оплоту цивилизации восточного берега. Перед Караколом трафик на дорогах увеличился, и въезжали мы уже в потоке машин. Оплот цивилизации – это значит наконец-то можно покушать горячего в кафешке, что мы и сделали закатив велики прям внутрь. До этого последний раз у нас получилось это только в Боконбаево 31 декабря. Других работающих кафе по пути не было.

Пока готовилась еда, мы разомлели от тепла и комфорта и даже вздремнули, почувстовав как стали красными наши обветренные и загоревшие лица. Зима не лето. Заснеженная дорога и встречный зимний ветерок с курткой и зимними ботинками – это не горячий летний асфальт в маечке на лысом полуслике.

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Поев, я вытащила карту, и показала что шансы сегодня хапнуть вновь экстрима – велики, так как дальше Тюпа мы врядли уедем. Это последний поселок, где есть речка и недалеко озеро, а судя по тенденциям, гостиниц тут раньше Чолпон-Аты ждать бессмысленно. Вот такие морально подготовленные мы отправились дальше.

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Дорога отошла от озера и скакала через горки и мини-перевальчики, мы ехали строго на север, вокруг были совсем сугробы, а впереди все выше и выше вырастал красивейший снежный хребет северного берега. К Тюпу же пейзажи стали просто катастрофически красивыми! И мы с Катей начали отставать, так как хотелось фотографировать каждые 10 метров.

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И вот он Тюп – довольно большенький поселочек, но гостиниц как всегда ноль. Решаем ехать пока дальше, только выезжаем к краю поселка, и я вижу пеший отвороточек через снега в сторону, который скорее всего ведет к реке. Мы с Феликсом переглянулись и поняли по взглядам, что это ОНО!  НАДО БРАТЬ!

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Протащив через сугробы велики около 600 метров мы вышли к идеальному месту для зимней ночевки. Берег двухметровой ступенькой спускался вниз, закрывая нас от ветра и от деревни, внизу была под 15см снега твердая земля с листьями, рядом  речка со льдом, который имел шансы быть прорубленным до воды, на другом берегу кусты для дров, и просто потрясающий вид на горы!

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Мы ждали такой зимней холодной ночевки, и она случилась для нас в идеальном месте!

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Пока было солнце – было тепло, и мы фотографировали, готовили ужин, пилили дрова, встречали потрясающий жёлтый закат.
С уходом солнышка, конечно же, пришел дубак. Но он и не мог не прийти. Ночью было до -15. Спали мы конечно не очень крепко, если не сказать что вообще не крепко :), подложив дополнительно под себя спасодеяла и включив вверху газовую лампу, которая хоть и не особо грела, но хотя бы подсушивала воздух. Соседняя палатка спала итого хуже. Но мы все равно об этом не пожалели! У меня уже был до этого опыт холодных  ночевок с лыжных походов, а для ребят это стало хорошим опытом и проверкой на прочность и оптимизм :).

3 января. Тюп – Кутургу – Семеновка. 70км. Набор высоты 380 метров.

Утром было очень холодно! Феликс героически разжег костер и мы пытались обогреться и сварить завтрак. Через некоторое время это удалось. Встающее солнышко потихоньку нас прогревало. А вот велики не крутились. Пришлось принимать меры в виде теплой водички. Разморозили, подраскрутили, и выдвинулись в путь.

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После Тюпа, не очень хотелось ещё раз утаптывать сугробы и надевать всю одежду, чтобы уснуть. Поэтому мы загадали желание.
Желание ночевать в тепле. Поскольку холодные ночевку полезно для здоровья чередовать с теплыми, так как спальники мокрые от испарений, а палатки обмерзшие и обледеневшие. Поэтому сегодня мы едем до Семеновки либо Григорьевки – более крупных деревень. Где найдем ночлег – та и наша.

Проезжаем одну деревеньку, на противоположной стороне дороги у приоткрытой калитки стоит мужичок. Завидев нас, он поднял руку и прокричал: "Ван момэнт!" Мы по традиции ответили: "Здрасьте!" Он стал доставать из кармана простенькие, неровные, но обалденно ароматные яблоки. "У меня как раз пять штук", мужичок положил каждому из нас в руку фрукт.
Как вы можете догадаться это были самые вкусные волшебные яблоки в мире. :)

После посёлка Кутургу снег перестал лежать на полях, мы въехали в весну.

Когда дороги наконец-то стали бесснежными, а обочины не обледеневшими, - ехать стало резко комфортнее и веселее. Работающих «кафеси» снова мы не нашли, и снова обедали на обочине между тополей и камней, поедая помимо лепешек и сыра – соленые бобы, на которые мы просто подсели в Киргизии.

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Северный берег более цивилизован в плане наличия деревень, но не особо в плане инфраструктуры. Может быть летом…но точно не сейчас.

С вегетарианцами и альтруистами очень удобно ездить в походы. Едят они всё и по-многу. Если ничего нет - не жалуются, потому что могут и мало есть. Но от вкусного не отказываются.

Процедура питания в кыргызской поездке была проста: завтракаем тем, что осталось после ужина. Половинкой лепёшки, например. :) и далее едем до ближайшего кафе, чтобы пообедать горячим. На ужин варим в котелке макароны, кашу или пюре из стратегических запасов, которые имеются в рюкзаках. Из напитков естественно чай, какао. Часто бывало так, что рассчитывая на хороший сервис азиатской страны, мы с утра проезжали километров 60, пока не попадалось на пути первое кафеси. И к нашей великой радости оно оказывалось закрытым :) Причём даже на курортно-развитой северной стороне Иссык-Куля.

- Не сезон, - подумал Штирлиц.

Цены, как в наших "узбечках": лагман - 90, чучвара - 60, чай - 40. Числа цен одинаковые, а вот стоимость получается меньше. Т.к. за один руль здесь дают 1,5 сома. Не рыбами, а бумажной или металлической национальной валютой. Таким образом, покушать в киргизских кафеси можно намного дешевле и вкуснее.

И вот она Семеновка. Даю установку – «что видем, там и встаем, на лучшее не надеемся, главное, чтоб в тепле!»

И вот на въезде в деревню стоит киргизская бабулька в красном, собирается переходить дорогу, мы с ней все проезжая «Здрасте!», она нам «Здрасьте». А Феликс : «Здрасте! А где тут можно переночевать?», бабушка обладала очень быстрой сообразительностью. Далее она вошла в историю нашего велопохода как «пьяная киргизская бабушка», но обо всём по порядку :).

Она сказала : «дак у меня можно, пошли!». И мы пошли.

Бабушка правда следом сказала: «у меня тут пустой дом мой, только вот ключей то нет, сама то я дальше живу, надо тут вот замок сломать…». Мы настрожились! Но очень хотелось тепла и пустого дома за смешную цену :). А бабушка не производила впечатление преступницы. Феликс и Андрей подломали замок и открыли дверь. Домик в две комнаты. В одной печка, в другой нет стекол, но не слишком дубак. Есть уголь, в огороде туалет. В общем всё путём!

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Феликс рассчитался и мы попросили показать, где взять воду. За водой на колонку ходить далеко и она отвела нас к соседке, у которой мы и набрали полканистры для ужина и завтрака. А бабушка тем временем купила себе фунфурик горячительного, и приговорила его то ли с соседкой, то ли в магазине. Ну в общем сидим мы, топим печку, сушим вещи, готовимся готовить ужин, приходит наша пьяная бабушка, садится на диван, и вроде как и не собирается ехать домой к мужу – заводит с нами беседы на очень плохом русском с заплетающимся языком.
Приходится беседы поддерживать и бабушку развлекать.

Андрей с Феликсом придумывают «план избавления». Попить чаю и сказать, что мы устали и будем спать и чтоб бабушка шла домой. И ничего, что 19:00 на дворе. Наииивные! Бабушка сказала «А я никуда не поеду! Куда я поеду? Ночь! Волки вокруг!».

В общем волки не волки, но план не удался :). Мы со с уже сухими спальниками перебрались в комнату без стекла в окне, а у печки принялись готовить ужин, уже не обращая внимание на бабушку. Все равно лучше, чем в снегах с мокрыми ногами. А бабушки – они тоже люди! :). Тем более, что она отрубилась и уснула раньше, чем мы закончили кушать. Хорошо, что я ей до этого дала все свои леденцы от кашля, чтоб она не кашляла ночью. Но все равно ночью наша бабуля проснулась и барагозила в поисках чайника – сушняк-с!

Надо ли говорить, что утром приехал дедушка, и высказал бабушке на чистом киргизском все, что он о ней думает :). Но нам не досталось, и мы радостные и обогретые ретировались. К слову, работающих гостиниц ни в Григорьевке, ни в Семеновке мы так и не встретили.

4 января. Семеновка – Григорьевка – Чолпон-Ата – Чок-Тал – берег Иссык-Куля. 66км.набор 330м.

Северный берег не очень интересен в плане пейзажей, так как дорога тут идет в отдалении от берега, а сам берег либо занят огородами, либо пансионатами, которые в районе Чолпон-Аты даже наконец-то работали! В один из них – Бостери, мы съездили, чтоб выйти на набережную и ещё раз ощутить всю силу Иссык-куля, по которому мы уже соскучились с Южного то берега!

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Сбивающий с ног ветер на причале, ярко-зелёные ёлки на территории пансионата в Бостери и бирюзовая вода под яркими лучами солнца - я думаю это и есть признаки весны. Теперь мы видели знакомые горы на противоположном берегу, по которому ехали в той жизни. Т.к. прошло уже более полмиллиона секунд с начала нашей насыщенной поездки. А в походах каждая секунда неповторима.

Когда проезжаешь крупные посёлки в околообеденное время, можно насладится пением муэдзина. На мечети, как правило, установлены колонки, или громкоговорители и потрясающе мелодичный голос доносится в каждый уголок мусульманской души.

В Чолпон-Ате у нас обед, но сначала мы с Феликсом честно пытались поменять деньги в 4 банках – все закрыты! Нашли один работающий обменник на базарчике, и то слава богу. Поели вкусно и много, и обогрелись.

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Пока мы ели поднялся просто штормовой встречный ветер. Мы знали, что тут такое бывает, и какое же счастье что такого ветра нам не случилось раньше!
Ехали мы гуськом на колесе у первого Андрея, который хорошо держал невысокий темп и не давал нам запыхиваться. Без него я бы не выжила в этом ветре точно :).

Так как предыдущая ночевка была  у нас теплая, то сегодня по графику – вновь холодная. Очень хочется наконец-то постоять непосредственно на самом берегу нашего озера и заодно сказать ему «До свидания!» так как уже завтра мы приедем в Балыкчу, замкнув кольцо.

Место для этого нашли просто шикарное, 4км не доезжая до п.Чок-Тал был хлипенький свороток, которым местные ездят на осликах за колючками, он привел нас на берег, поросший густыми кустами облепихи, в которой были проходы к песчаному берегу озера и тропинки вглубь – за дровами и «по делам». Мы поставили палатку внутри зарослей на песочке, и оказались отгороженными и от жуткого ветра и от шума прибоя озера.

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Андрей съездил с канистрой до недалеко расположенного домика фермеров за пресной водой.

Это была наша третяя холодная ночевка в этом походе, и она была не менее потрясающая чем предыдущие две. Иссык-куль подарил нам потрясающий закат, отражающийся в мокром песке и накатывающих на берег волнах. Посиделки у костра, разговоры, как будто мы не можем и не можем друг с другом наговориться, предчувствие что все заканчивается, и предвкушение заключительного дня…

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5 января. Чок-Тал – Балыкчи. 60км. Набор 165м.

А утром случился ещё и потрясающий рассвет…

Увы ветер не утих, но стал боковым, что чуть-чуть облегчило нашу участь, но все равно вымотало.

Оставшееся до финиша расстояние настолько маленькое, что встречный ветер решает помочь нам, чтобы мы не маялись от безделья и не даёт даже сделать маленьких вздох. Крутить педали можно легко, если едешь "на колесе". Поэтому в походе мужчины очень нужны! :) Но, когда встречный ветер зовёт своего брата - бокового, то все становятся равны и едут одинаково вихляво.

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В Балыкчу мы приехали около 13-14 часов, пообедали в кафе, заказав себе «всего и много!», созвонились с Валентиной, и отправились уже в знакомый дом.

Ребят оставили разбирать велосипеды и готовить баню (они ещё и успели сходить на лед озера :)), а мы с Феликсом поехали закупаться для поезда двумя ведрами яблок и бальзамом, заодно чуть не выдали меня по дороге замуж, но Феликс спас :).
На автовокзале нашли машину на завтра на утро до Бишкека за хорошую цену, и, накатав в итоге ещё с 10км по этой длиннющей деревне, вернулись в конец умотанные домой.

А потом банька, ужин, посиделки с Валентиной и её отцом, рассказы Валентины о том, что они всей школой делали пари, доедем мы или нет, и только она в нас верила и теперь победила! Ну в общем нам очень приятно! Спали мы после бани без задних ног. Ноги отдельно от нас крутили педали :).

P1090197

Заключение.

А далее переезд до Бишкека, прогулки по местам кое-чьего детства, «дружба» с ментами, которые чуть не аресовали нашу Олю и здорово подпортили нам настроение и благостное впечатление от страны, покупка 20 лепешек (это к двум ведрам яблок – собственно это вся наша еда в поезде), традиционные выяснения отношений с проводниками из-за велосипедов, вокзал и дом….милый дом…

Таким неожиданным образом мы проехали 490 км за 7 дней. По ощущениям сменили все времена года: и лето, и осень, и зиму, и весну. Присмотрели укромные места, в которые можно приехать искупаться, когда будет потеплее. Не заболели после холодной ночёвки, благодаря вкусному киргизскому горному мёду. Полюбили тандырные лепёшки с кунжутом. Приобрели навыки езды по льду.  Добавили в копилку новые эмоции от увиденной красоты нашей необъятной планеты.

Выводы.

Дорога вокруг Иссык-куля очень хорошо подходит для зимнего велотуризма. Однако необходимо быть готовым к неработающей инфраструктуре (даже в Балыкчи мы пытались найти работающую гостиницу вместо дома Валентины – но из трех не работала ни одна!) и холодным ночевкам «в поле без пресной воды», иметь канистру (нам на 5 человек 10 литров хватало на ужин и завтрак).

Световой день в Новогодние дни очень короткий, поэтому бессмысленно пытаться закладывать большие километражи, желательно иметь фонарик и светоотражающие элементы на случай, если вы вынуждены будете ехать в темноте или в сумерках.

Зимой нужно продумывать водный режим, так как вода во фляжках замерзает, а пить все равно нужно, не смотря на холод. Колонки зимой практически везде работали – из них просто постоянно текла вода, чтоб колонка не перемерзала.

Одежда должна быть теплой, но дышащей. На руки – желательно варежки, вторым комплектом – перчатки. Теплые ботинки! Днём достаточно тепло, и мы ехали в свитерах и жилетах,  но утром и вечером очень холодно и ветренно.

Местные жители не отличаются гостеприимством, как в некоторых других частях Киргизии. Так как русских тут в последнее время меньше чем иностранцев, а иностранцев они не любят. Нам многие говорили, что думали, что мы американцы, а значит плохие по определению.
Мы ездили с газовой горелкой, часть продуктов на первые пару дней везли с собой ещё из дома, докупали макароны быстрой варки, сладкое, чай, сыр.

 

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