10 Авг 2015

Вступление.

Сербия была темной лошадкой этого похода. Я не планировала в этой стране особых достопримечательных мест, кроме одного водопада и высокого перевала по нац.парку.Капаоник. И просто прокладывала дорогу от Македонии в Черногорию наиболее интересным путём и в обход Косово. И получился удивительно гармоничный маршрут, полный лесов, грунтовых второстепенных дорожек, палаточных ночлегов, и не без приключений.

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День 15. 26 апреля. Здравствуй, Сербия. 3.5км


До границы с Сербией осталось 30км, а из дублирующих федеральное шоссе дорог тут только железная). А по железной на велосипеде неудобно. Так что я принимаю решение прокинуться 90км от Скопье до сербского Вранье на автобусе. И это решение было очень правильным.

Сам день прошел в ожидании. Но с утра я успела выспаться, написать отчет по Македонии и очень плотно позавтракать. Лёшу решила встретить всё же с вещами на автовокзале. По пути до автовокзала проехала вдоль набережной Скопье. Видно, что она очень красива, но сейчас идет стройка и многого не видно. Как и читала в отчетах, архитектура этого города действительно режет глаз: красивая, помпезная, но очень странная, если не сказать не уместная. Но сам город светлый и приятный.

aIMAG8933  aIMAG8937

В 12:00 приехал из Косово Алексей. Я его накормила вчерашней половиной пиццы и мы стали разбираться с возможностью уехать сразу на автобусе в Сербию.

В кассе на вопрос о транспортировке велосипедов нас отправили к водителю. Тот дал добро, и мы купили билеты до Вранье. Правда водитель испугался, увидев, что велосипеда у нас два, и взял с нас 5 евро как за 5 багажных мест. Ну и ладно. Зато разбирать мой особо не пришлось, только сняла переднее колесо и свернула руль.

Ехали мы около 3 часов, так как долго стояли на границе. На автовокзале во Вранье заказали покушать, а Лёша принялся собирать велик. Покушали полноценно вдвоем на 4 евро! Это рекорд!
Тут нужно еще сказать, что в Сербию мы приехали без единой сербской денежки, а так как было воскресенье, то единственный на город обменник не работал. Так что долго уговаривали хозяина харчевни поменять нам 50 евро, что он и сделал по вполне хорошему курсу.

aIMAG8948  aIMAG8966

Наконец собрав велосипед, едем в центр Вранье, где я сразу как казак-разбойник по стрелочками краской на стенах домов нахожу маленький частный отельчик с приемлемой ценой.
На этом все задачи длинного и суетного дня решены!

Лёша уехал кататься по городу, а меня хозяева кормят пирожными. Неплохое начало новой страны).

27 апреля. Вранье – Марково Кале – пер.1000м – Власе – пер.1100м – ГЭС не доезжая Лесковаца, 58км, 5:16чхв,1520м. набора высоты

Встали мы поздно и не торопясь. Поели в пекарне, закупились продуктами, покружились по городу, который на удивление оказался симпатичным и интересным, и поехали наверх.

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Дорога начинает идти очень круто вверх еще в городе, а к Марковому Кале и вовсе достигает рекордного уклона в 22%. И судя по виду на эту дорогу со стороны – это не ошибка дорожных служб.

IMG 20150427 103056  P1150700

Марково Кале – развалины старой крепости. Мне место понравилось. Развалин пока еще у меня в этом походе не было, а эти смотрятся очень эпично.

Во Власе, довольно крупной деревне, харчевни не оказалось, и мы поели у магазина мороженым и булками с кефиром.

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А на развилке после деревне ушли налево неизвестной «дорогой сербских партизан», как я её назвала. А по факту – лесозаготовителей. Но мне кажется это у них только прикрытие :).

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До верха перевала дорожка покрыта асфальтом, но совсем узкая, шириной в одну машину, а вниз идет каменистая грунтовка, развороченная ручьями и лесовозами. Наверху перевала стоит сам домик «партизан», где штук 10-12 коренастых мужиков с обнаженными торсами прервали свои диалоги, провожая меня взглядом. Не часто по этой дорожке ездят туристы, как бы ни сказать впервые. На спуске мы наткнулись и на зимнюю стоянку лесозаготовителей, обустроенную по последнему слову лесной техники, даже вода из бревна бежала! А на дереве рисовалась деревянная красная пятиконечная звезда.

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В конце спуска начался хороший асфальт с разметкой, который привел нас к старой ГЭС, которая ныне является скорее объектом туризма, чем объектом хоз.инфраструктуры, но тем не менее до сих пор работает.

Тем временем начал собираться дождь, а следом начиналась деревня, в которую нам совсем не хотелось. И я пошла проситься к охраннику встать с палаткой рядом с ГЭС на территории заброшенной детской площадки. Охранник на удивление согласился. Мы уже под дождем натянули тент и разбили лагерь.

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А потом прям под дождем я отправилась купаться, и стало и вовсе хорошо. А вечером мы, наконец, развели костер. Вот уж по чему я действительно успела соскучиться.

28 апреля. ГЭС – Лесковац – Божник – Добрая Вода – водопад, 73км, 6:10чхв, 1426м. набора высоты

Полпохода меня сопровождала отличная погода, но Сербия все-таки началась с дождей.

Полночи лил сильный дождь, но к 8 утра он закончился, и мы выехали. В Лесковаце традиционно позавтракали в пекарне булками и кефиром и закупили булок в дорогу.

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До середины пути до Доброй воды шел то асфальт, то мощёная камнями дорога, а после началась грунтовка, петляющая по холмам. Несколько раз принимался проливной дождь, который резко сменялся ярким солнцем и снова дождем, и так весь день.

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Постепенно грунтовка начала напоминать сказку в берендеевском лесу, одни указатели чего стоят: туда царицын град, туда дьявольский град, а туда пролом баня и божий рай. И все это вырезано на деревянных дощечках с примерным километражем.

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Но постепенно указатели становились всё запутанней и запутанней, а незадолго до водопада и вовсе на развилке стояла табличка со стрелками в обе стороны, но при этом с одной надписью «пролом баня». Но Пролом Баня это деревня, а тут кусты с колеей, засыпанной ветками, по которой явно уже очень давно никто не ездил. Так начались наши игры в казаков-разбойников на партизанских дорогах Сербии.

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Выбрав левую из равнозначных дорог, через некоторое время мы все-таки добрались до большущего водопада, который я видела еще дома на гугл-снимках.

Водопад был просто шикарный, очень большой для лесного, при этом абсолютно естественного происхождения.

Показала Лёше по отметинам на камнях и по грунту, что раньше его русло пролегало чуть в стороне, и судя по всему год-два, как сместилось. И не знала я в тот момент, что русло не просто сместилось, но и сыграло злую шутку с этой самой дорогой, по которой мы едем, сделав её не пригодной для проезда.

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Но об этом мы узнали, поднявшись выше по дороге к верху водопада. Там и выяснилось, что теперь река занимает всю долину, где когда-то шла дорожка, и полностью её размыла. Поднявшись по крутому каньону и пройдя немного вдоль русла, мы нашли выход на старую дорогу с другой стороны. Тут пригодились акробатические навыки Алексея при перепрыгивании рукавов реки. Это принесло некоторое облегчение, так как других то дорог в районе нет, и объехать можно только ооочень и ооочень далеко.

Начался трудный процесс – обнос. Переносили отдельно рюкзаки и велосипеды, с бродом речки. Провозились почти час.

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Но дорожка, на которую мы выехали, плоховато располагала к езде, так как была сильно завалена ветками, приходилось много спешиваться. Тем временем уже близился вечер и нужно было искать место для ночлега, но не хотелось вставать тут и оставаться всю ночь в неведении, приведет ли она нас в цивилизацию, или снова прервётся каким-нибудь препятствием. А дорога упрямо ползла и ползла в гору и не думала заканчиваться.
И наконец, в уже закатных лучах солнца мы выехали на перевал с которого краем подошла укатанная грунтовая дорога и было видно, что спускается она к фермерским домикам.

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Ура!

Но пока счастье не было полным, так как тут встать было негде, а до фермерских домиков дорога спускалась такими крутыми и извилистыми ухабами, что ехалось не быстро. В добавок мы были довольно прилично вымотаны, сильно похолодало и, так как мы находились выше 1000м, то дул пронизывающий ветер, и как назло вокруг ни ручья, ни речки.

У первых встреченных фермеров попросились заночевать в огороде, они были не слишком против, но уклон их огорода не располагал к ночлегу, спускаемся дальше.

И вот последние лучи солнца уходит за горизонт и мы видим на ровной площадке старый дом, окруженной рощицей, прикрывающей площадку от ветра. «Лёша, поехали туда! Дальше не дотянем».
Дом выглядел заброшенным и мы встаем чуть спрятавшись от дороги между стеной и рощицей. Место просто идеальное, только воды нет. Но пока Лёшка ставится, я ухожу к еще одной ферме чуть поодаль, на другой стороне дороги, чтоб попросить воды. Дом выглядит жилым, но никого нет, окна и двери заперты. Зато на улице есть кран с водой для полива, правда он запечатан, но слышно, что водичка в нём есть.

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Возвращаюсь в наш лагерь и пока ставлю свою палатку и завожу горелку, Леша уходит «ломать» кран, и возвращается с водой. Причем «сломать» удалось удачно, завтра утром мы всё вернули на место, как было.
А вечер был просто прекрасен. Первое авантюрное партизанское место Сербии было успешно пройдено, на костерке кипел чаёк, ветер стихал, а небо стало звездное-звездное.

29 апреля. Пролом Баня – Куршумулия – Мерцес, 66.6км, 4:50чхв, 653м. набора высоты

Ночью звездное небо куда-то подевалось, и разразился ливень, лило полночи и всё утро, и казалось, что конца этому не будет. А выглянув в 7 утра из палатки, я увидела сплошное молоко тумана. Судя по всему, мы стоим в облаке, и ждать тут погоды бесполезно, надо собираться и ехать вниз. Как хорошо, что у меня есть тент и под ним частично сухо.

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Спуск был мучителен. Грунтовка итак была аховая, а тут и вовсе раскисла в жижу, и мои летние покрышки не способствовали устойчивости. В общем 10км под дождем мы спускались почти час, останавливаясь, чтоб погреть кисти рук и сбросить напряжение.

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И вот замерзшие и дрожащие мы подъезжаем к вывеске «Божий рай»! Какие мудрые люди придумали название этой корчме. Пожилая женщина метет от листьев дворик и мы просимся погреться и попить кофе. Она включает нам тепловентилятор в кафе и идет варить живительный напиток. А мы идем отчищать ботинки от килограммов глины, так как с такой обувью в «божье» место точно не полагается.

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Спустя пару километров началась и сама деревня Пролом Баня, знаменитая своими минеральными лечебницами, а так же тем, что вся деревня стоит на узких берегах вдоль реки, с множеством замысловатых речных мостиков, переходов, водяных мельниц.

Тут найдя в одном из курортных домиков работающий ресторанчик, мы засели обедать. Леша отправил открытку домой, я докупила батарейки для гпс, мы сытые и согревшиеся поехали дальше.

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Сегодня в планах у нас подъехать как можно ближе к завтрашнему подъему к вершине нац.парка Капаоник. Для этого я наметила конечным пунктом деревню Мерцес. Через 20км случился крупный городок, но я наивно решила, что Мерцес тоже будет крупным, и даже докупать продукты не стала.

Перед Мерцесем асфальт неожиданно закончился и началась грунтовка! Неожиданно, ведь это вроде довольно центральная дорога. Причиной оказалась строящаяся ГЭС, из-за которой старую дорогу уже разрушили, а новую не накатали, и пока только эта грунтовка с лишним набором высоты.

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Но Мерцес оказался населенным пунктом в три дома. В одном из них – в некрашеном неремонтопригодном сарае оказался, о чудо! магазинчик, где мы, закупили необходимый запас для ужина в виде макарон и сухих супов. Больше в этом «магазе» ничего не было, вообще ничего. Пока мы выйдя, лопали только купленные печеньки, за продавщицей приехал ухажер и под охи и ахи увез её на машине. Вовремя мы успели.

После Мерцеса асфальт начался снова, что меня немного успокоило, так как завтра предстоял суровый набор высоты и не хотелось его делать по пыльному грунто-гравию. Машин кстати на нашей дороге практически нет.
Недалеко от Мерцеса заехали к местному дяденьке набрать воды, и даже хотели попроситься на ночлег в огород, но время еще есть, и можно проехать подальше, а значит едем.

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Дальше населенных пунктов нет. И только изредка встречаются отдельно стоящие фермерские дома. Ещё 10 км, и мы видим такой чудесный недостроенный дом на берегу речки, и там еще и деревянный стол с лавками, и снова есть кран с питьевой водой. Место для лагеря идеально, решаем встать. На столе оказываются забытые сырые картошка и лук – просто роскошь! Значит будет супчик!

Ставимся укрывшись за стеной дома, чтоб не привлекать внимание, моемся в реке и готовим роскошный ужин. Ещё один непростой день, и снова жизнь удалась! Только небо по-прежнему застлано черными тяжелыми тучами, а нам завтра так нужна погода!

А еще сегодня мне дорогу перебегал зайка… Но зайка не медведь).

30 апреля. Мерцес – нац.парк. Капаоник – пер.1830м – Рашка, 66.4км, 5:21чхв, 1618м. набора высоты

День начался чудесно – с морозца и ясного неба. А значит, шансы переехать через Капаоник были хорошими. Вы спросите, почему я сомневалась? По той же причине, что и в Греции, из-за высоты перевала и гарантированных сугробов наверху.

aIMAG9626  aIMAG9630

А пока мы едем по дороге вдоль самой границы с Косово. Солнце быстро прогрело утренний воздух и дорога стала совсем солнечной и доброй. Даже лисичка мне перебежала дорогу.
Что удивляет меня в Сербии, хотя и не только в Сербии, а во всех славянских странах восточной Европы – трудолюбие местного население. Едешь ты в 8 утра через деревню, а уже никто не спит – там крышу перекрывают, там огород копают, там тележку ремонтируют, все заняты делом.

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Выехав от стоянки в 8 утра, уже в 10 мы приехали в туристический поселок Брзече, от которого начинается непосредственный выезд в нац.парк и крутые подъемы в перевал. Перекусив рядом с магазином и набрав воды на выезде из поселка, мы поехали вверх. До вершины было 15 км и еще около 800 метров набора.

Погода была солнечная и катилось мне хорошо, ноги крутили, словно намазывая масло на хлеб, взбираясь в крутые дорожные подъемы.

От попутчика я своего сразу же умотала, так как ждать друг друга на этой дороге смысла не было, а хитрый Лёша экономил на весе воды, и мне не хотелось везти воду и при этом делиться. Такая вот я вредная).

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Дорога живописно огибала линии хребта, даря потрясающие виды на разноцветные сербские долины. Постепенно на дорогу по краям стали спускаться тяжелые сугробы снега, но дорога была чищенная и проезжая.

Ничего не предвещало проблем…

И тут пришла смс от Леши, что он порвал цепь и задерживается. Я полагала, что он справится, и поехала дальше, и только на высоте в 1600м на красивой поляне с подснежниками, всего за 200м по высоте от верха я встаю на солнышке ждать. Заодно нахожу свой запасной замок для цепи.

Ждала я полтора часа! Немного ругаясь на то, что останься я в одиночку – уже б давно спустилась с перевала в тепло и попивала бы себе кофеек. За это время ясная погода сменилась тяжелыми тучами и перестала предвещать хорошие перспективы. А я задубела, как бобик … или цуцик.

P1150865  P1150875

Лёша пришел пешком. Выжимку для цепи я не вожу, так как слишком аккуратный я ездун чтобы порвать цепь, а замочек всегда беру, даже два. Но Лёша понадеялся, что раз он едет присоединяться ко мне, то у меня всё есть. В итоге и без выжимки, и цепь у него 10 скоростная и мой замок фактически бесполезен, еще и лишнее звено, чтоб нацепить замок, мы снять так и не смогли. Короче пустяк, но он стоил нам еще часа возни, но так и не привел к результату.
Вершина Капаоника встретила сугробами, жутким холодом и грозовыми тучами.

P1150893  P1150895

А также там была автобусная станция, и я уже было хотела посадить Лёшу на автобус, но он отказался, решил спускаться самокатом. Я ему: так после спуска то все равно ехать не сможешь? Но переубедить не смогла.

Следующий крупный город с потенциальной мастерской только Рашка. Моим первоначальным маршрутом до нее мы доедем только завтра и самокатом до неё совсем никак.

В итоге приходится менять маршрут и спускаться до Рашки с перевала более короткой дорогой на 26км меньше. Как же я не люблю менять маршруты! Но что делать? Вариантов нет. Нервничаю.

aIMAG9689  aIMAG9710

Но спуск, нужно сказать, был потрясающе красив, что немного смягчило мою досаду из-за смены маршрута. Вот только внизу в долине уже творился полный Армагеддон с ливнем, а у нас погода пока еще терпела, но терпела из последних сил.

И вот конец спуска, выезд на федеральную трассу с Косово, и дальше 12км до Рашки с подъемом вверх! Приехали, что называется. Самокаты не катят.

P1150900  aIMAG9735

Но тут Леше подфортило. На перекрестке я завожу разговор с местным сербом, хорошо говорящим по-английски. Спрашиваю, что за здание, выясняется что фабрика и он директор. Спрашивает про нас, рассказываю кто мы, откуда едем и озвучиваю проблему. И он говорит, что может подвести Лёшу до Рашки. Правда у него легковушка седан, но шансы упихаться есть.

P1150919  P1150931

Радуюсь, что самую большую проблему решили, оставляю его паковаться, договариваемся встретится на въезде, и сама мчусь на всех порах в город, чтоб успеть до дождя.

Через 4 км они меня обгоняют, но мне еще 8 в горку, и тут начинается он! ливень!

Последний раз под таким ливнем я ездила, наверное, в тропиках, но там он был сильно теплее, и там была не федеральная трасса. Сказать, что я вымокла до нитки, значит ничего не сказать. Дождь заливал даже за козырек кепки, каплями пробивало влагозащитную ткань штанов, куртка крепилась. На трассе было по щиколотку воды, которую приходилось рассекать колесами, тёплые фуры и грузовики старались притормаживать, чтобы не окатить меня с ног до головы, но получалось далеко не у всех. Хорошо хоть накидка на рюкзак и куртка у меня очень ярко желтые и меня хорошо видно на дороге, иначе б сшибли нафиг в этой сплошной стене падающей с неба воды.

aIMAG9764  P1150939

Еду, матерюсь) ну нафига мне попутчик, была б одна – пила б уже горячий кофе давно в сухом месте. Лёша прости, у всех бывают психологические слабости).

И вот, наконец, я подъезжаю к Рашке, по-прежнему льет как из ведра. А тут дорога раздваивается и через два разных моста уходит в разные стороны города. Приехали! И где искать?

От Лёши приходит смс, что он в отеле Престиж, за мостом налево. Пишу ответ «какой б… мост, тут их два». И тут я понимаю что с таким настроением мне нельзя искать отель «престиж» под дожем. Надо слегка остыть.
Встаю под грибок рядом с кафешкой на въезде. Смысла защищать себя от дождя уже не было, но все-таки то, что тебя психологически ничего не тарабанит по макушке – уже успокаивает. Думаю, а может и кофе выпить? И тут мне попалась еще и какая-то дурная тётька в кафе, которая, глядя на меня, очень боялась, что я сяду мокрая на её чудесные стулья, на которые я и не собиралась садиться. В общем день не задался)).

Но все-таки подостыв, я подъехала к работнику на заправке и спросила, которая дорога идет в центр, он показал направление и даже показал крышу моего отеля. Ура!

Конца дождя я так и не дождалась и поехала в отель.

Лёшка встретил меня сухой, вот зараза))), помог завести велик, и видать чувствуя, что я на взводе, уже перерешал кучу проблем, и почти гаражное хранение велов организовал, и даже с бесплатной стиркой для нас в отеле договорился, и веломастера ему наш «хозяин фабрики» нашел. Короче я угомонилась, и жизнь начала налаживаться.

aIMAG9774  aIMAG9778

А вечером мы даже взяли винца, и на хорошей ноте завершили этот нервный и психованный день. На самом деле, конечно, Лёша должен меня простить. Сегодня почти 20й день похода, и конечно я уже устаю, особенно от обстоятельств, на которые я не могу повлиять.

На самом деле появление моего попутчика резко замедлило мой темп передвижения. Но в этом был и один существенный плюс. Леша не дал мне упахаться и загнать себя, что я иногда тоже очень люблю делать. Вместо этого мы много ездили по городским и парковым улочкам, просыпались позже обычного, обфотографировали каждый угол и поворот и себя на фоне)), смотрели игру местных футболистов под неспортивное пивко и даже ловили раков!!!, и жизнь на две недели приобрела некоторую вынужденную размеренность, которая хоть периодически и бесила меня, но была мне однозначно полезна.

1 мая. Рашка – Нови Пазар – Рыбаричи – «Ибарский бисер», 60.4км, 4:26чхв, 973м. набора высоты

В каждой стране у меня случалось по дню, который с натяжкой, но можно было назвать днёвкой. Когда никуда особо не нужно торопиться и можно чуть-чуть дать себе расслабится. В Греции это были Метеоры, в Македонии – Скопье, в Сербии – сегодняшний день. И хоть и проехали мы сегодня не так уж мало, но всё-таки как минимум полудневкой его вполне можно считать.

aIMAG9783  aIMAG9786

Утром после завтрака я осталась «плевать в потолок», а Лёша ушел к веломастеру ремонтироваться, заодно и отпробовал с ними ракию (я ж говорю гад) мне ж не принёс) ).

В итоге выехали мы только в 11 утра, заодно и перекусив, взяв в пекарне по колбасице), упрощенной вариации на тему гамбургера. В Сербии у нас даже возник новый термин «поколбасица».

Погода сегодня снова дала нам денек передохнуть от дождей, и до Нови Пазара мы доехали по чудесному солнышку чудесной пустой второстепенкой, минуя оживленную федеральную трассу. А от Нови Пазара к границе дорога уже пошла одна, так что миновать было нечего. Трафик немного доставал, но причину мы узнали позже. В честь праздника и выходного дня в деревне Рыбаричи на стадионе был организован турнир футбольных команд. Ну и вы думаете, мы смогли проехать мимо? Особенно учитывая тот факт, что Лёшка футболист с опытом. Я то только самих футболистов поразглядывать могу, в процессе я ничего не понимаю).

P1150940  P1150943

Заодно и пообщались с местными велосипедистами, которые активно тренируются на участке трассы до границы и обратно. А также проинспектировали соблюдение законов, пытаясь отыскать пиво) но так и не нашли – молодцы сербы!

В итоге я еле уговорила Лёшу ехать дальше.

aIMAG9844  P1150945

Ну а дальше! Дальше началась красота! Политически Черногория еще не настала, но географически она уже наступила, а именно – многочисленные тоннели и каньон реки Ибар.

P1150951  aIMAG9879

Вы правда наверное думаете, что тоннели это чудесно? На фотографии да. В жизни это очень неприятный и пугающий процесс, проезжать по неосвещенному тоннелю на велосипеде, когда света фонаря не хватает для ориентации в пространстве, а машины проносятся так, как будто локомотив поезда. На 15 километров у нас случилось 8 тоннелей. И это было шикарное живописное завершение дня, от которого мы ничего в плане пейзажей и эмоций не ожидали.

P1150965  aIMAG9884

По совету местных, встали в последнем мотеле перед границей с Черногорией с красивым названием «Ибарский бисер». Так как завтра будет совсем другая валюта, то выгребаем последние сербские копеечки, высчитывая себе на еду. Простите официанты, сегодня на чаевые не хватило!

aIMAG9892  P1150976

Читать отчет по Черногории >>

 

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