19 Янв 2014

Познавательная поездка по древним городам Узбекистана на Новый год

Всё наше путешествие можно разделить на две большие части – это внутри страны, и поезда и вокзалы. Начну я всё-таки с того, ради чего мы и ехали - со страны.

С Узбекистаном я связана непосредственно, так как родилась здесь и прожила первые 4 года своей жизни, и помню много эпизодов и картинок этой страны, не смотря на свой маленький возраст. Также с Узбекистана начинался в 2008 году мой большой велопоход «Фанские горы - Памир», который проходил через Узбекистан, Таджикистан и Кыргызстан.

Ташкент.

В Ташкенте мы побывали дважды – в начале и в завершении нашего путешествия. Встретил нас этот город морозом и сугробами, ухоженностью улиц, красивым метро и обилием полицейских (мы их звали «зеленые человечки»).

Ташкентское метро не очень людное, имеет понятную схему, всего три ветки и очень красивые станции, которые увы нельзя фотографировать. На метро мы доехали до центральной площади Ташкента, которую обошли по кругу, заворачивая во все аллейки и закоулки к историческим зданиям, взобравшись на башенку с часами, поздоровавшись с Тимуром на коне.

P1110175  P1110194

И отправились на Алайский базар, в котором нас больше всего порадовала новогодняя ёлка – до эстетичности этому кривому можжевельнику было далеко, но это была точно «ёлка» с мишурой и прочими атрибутами. Восточные базары в 21 веке конечно уже во многом потеряли свою потрясающую атмосферу, которая была тут всего с десяток лет назад, но всё равно очень колоритны и захватывают волной общего шума бойкой торговли.

P1110231  P1110243

Мы купили гранатов, лепешек и поели лагмана в маленькой забегаловке для местных и отправились изучать город дальше. Путь наш лежал на дальний конец города к пятничной мечети Кукельдаш и старым кварталам. По пути попали на обилие ребятишек в районе цирка и ТЮЗа, возвращающихся с новогодних представлений и продолжающих играть вокруг ёлочек.

Издалека были поражены базаром Чорсу. Это не базар – это целый город. Предновогодний гул был слышен за квартал, а потоки человечков перетекали туда и оттуда как полноводные реки. Мы решили, что сегодня мы не готовы к таким эмоциям, и отложили посещение Чорсу на возвращение, в более спокойные посленовогодние дни.

Узбекистан. Ташкент.  Узбекистан. Ташкент.

Вечером 30го декабря мы покинули Ташкент поездом на Ургенч, и вернулись сюда только 8 января на такси из Самарканда, поселившись как раз недалеко от базара Чорсу, который нам понравился больше чем Алайский более низкими ценами и большим выбором всего :).

Хива.

Историческая часть нашего путешествия началась с самого удаленного объекта – с древней Хивы. Хива встретила нас запахом весны, теплом и приветливым солнышком. Мы приехали 31декабря на такси из Ургенча и заселились в приятный гест Алибек, рядом с западными воротами.

Хива. Узбекистан.  Хива. Узбекистан.

Хозяйка, очень доброжелательная и улыбчивая женщина, сказала «будем встречать новый год вместе! Приходите!».  Мы подумали, ну спустимся к встрече, поднимем бокал вина, и пойдем дальше к себе. Поэтому отправились с Таней первым делом в магазин, подготовить себе  вечерней праздничной еды – бутылку красного сухого, сыру, салатика (лепешки и гранаты у нас были). А также по дороге перекусили в единственной ещё открытой чайхоне в районе, и отправились встречать закат в опустевшем старом городе. Вечер был просто потрясающий. Людей практически не было, лишь редкие местные жители, пересекающие Хиву через улицы  старого города, - и древние стены, мавзолеи и медресе встретили нас в своем закатном розовом полумраке на булыжных мостовых, как если бы гуляли здесь пять веков назад, в тишине на узких улочках.

Хива. Узбекистан.  Хива. Узбекистан.

Вернулись домой около 19 часов и хозяйка сразу же позвала нас к столу. Как же мы ошибались! Она накрыла полный стол еды и закусок, были ещё четверо туристов кроме нас – двое русских, один японец и один очаровательный фразцуз, который развлекал нашу компанию весь вечер, а также несколько родственников.

Нам с Таней, как русских женщинам, была налита водка в пиалы, со словами «раз вы русские женщины, должны соответствовать стереотипам». В общем пришлось пить за русских женщин, удивительно – но мы обе остались абсолютно трезвыми, наверное потому что вкусно и хорошо кушали и мухлевали :).

Хива. Узбекистан.  Хива. Узбекистан.

Очень много разговаривали с самой хозяйкой, расспрашивали её про состояние туризма, про господдержку, про детей и учебу, фразцуз рассказывал много баек и много шутил, и вечер прошел очень дружно. После ужина мы с Таней сходили на местную ёлку, где не смотря на поздний вечер (около 22 часов) и отсутствие света (только слабое освещение самой ёлки), было много ребятишек, которые прыгали на батуте, катались на паровозике и развлекались как могли, пользуясь редким поводом. Вернувшись в номер, мы отметили Новый год по Барнаулу и легли спать, так как двое бессонных суток дали о себе знать, хозяева пытались нас разбудить в 24:00 для контрольного тоста :), но мы уже крепко спали :).

Всё 1 января мы посвятили прогулкам по старому городу, обойдя все маленькие закоулочки и удаленные улочки, и даже пройдя по всей стене, которой отгорожен город, чем немного вызвали ажиотаж зеленых человечков, но мы успели ретироваться раньше, чем они отправились за нами на стену.

P1110432  Хива. Узбекистан.

Народа было очень мало, лавочники ещё не проснулись и не работали, музеи были преимущественно закрыты, и мы наслаждались весной, солнцем в несезонное  время года.

Хива. Узбекистан.  Хива. Узбекистан.

Самым ярким моментом был подъем на самый высокий минарет. Лесенка туда никого не оставит равнодушным. Ступеньки такие, что держаться удобнее за потолок - очень крутые, внутри довольно темно. Но вид с обзорной площадки почти с 50 метров просто отличный. Правда после этого минарета ноги с непривычки болели ещё пару дней.

Хива. Узбекистан.  Хива. Узбекистан.

В исторические подробности вдаваться не буду – они описаны в путеводителях и другой литературе. Мы читали с книжки статью про объект или непосредтсвенно у объекта, или перед прогулкой сидя в гесте и решая, куда пойдем дальше.
Поздно вечером у нас состоялась фотосессия «ночной Хивы». Немного расстроила разноцветная подсветка, так как за цветными огнями терялись настоящие цвета мазайки и глазури, но некоторые снимки все-таки получились неплохо.

Тандыр. Хива  Хива. Узбекистан.

2 января улочки старого города были уже более ожившими – выползли лавочники с сувенирами, появилось больше людей. Мы взяли комплексный билетик по музеям, и отправились по внутренностям. Музеи ничем особо не обрадовали. Сложилось впечатление, что выставлять особо нечего и с трудом растянули то, что было на всех, разбавили абсолютно неподходящими вещами, ни по времени ни по предназначению – самоварами, портретами «вождя»,  чучелами пеликанов и восковыми помидорами :).  Интереснее разглядывать узорчатые потолки, резные двери и колонны, уютные дворики, старые комнаты учеников в медресе, комнатки гарема…

Хива. Узбекистан.  Хива. Узбекистан.

Навои.

Заезд в Навои был буквально на день – утром приехали, в обед уехали. Это город где я родилась, поэтому тут у нас была особая программа – поиск дома, подъем к квартире на галерею, фотографии для родителей, дорожка к детскому садику, городское озеро. Когда все это было выполнено, мы на такси отправились в Бухару.

Бухара.

Бухара встретила нас пасмурным небом, снегом летящим с этого неба и позёмкой от ветра, утки ёжились от холода в пруду Ляби Хаус, хотелось в тепло.

Бухара. Узбекистан.  Бухара. Узбекистан.

Желаемый гест мы искали довольно долго, в итоге так и не найдя, пошли искать другой – в итоге поселились в «Рустам и Зухра» в чистом и просторном номере с хорошей ванной, отогрелись и пошли гулять по уже вечерней Бухаре, дошли до минарета Колян, где встретили закатное солнышко, поели лагмана, и день покатился к ночи.

P1110691  Бухара. Узбекистан.

Весь следущий день был посвящен прогулкам, как по исторический части так и по около-исторической, где живут простые люди. Также захватили базар, действующую мечеть, Арку, посмотрели при свете дня всё, что вчера смогли лишь в сумерках, за Коляном отыскали старинный женский хамам и договорились на завтра на помывку с процедурами. Это стало определяющим фактором в том, чтобы оставаться в Бухаре ещё на день.

Бухара. Узбекистан.  Бухара. Узбекистан.

Бухара конечно не такая «домашняя» как Хива – это более крупный город, здесь больше лавочников и ремесленных мастерских, соответственно больше торговцев, зазывающих к себе на покупки. Но тем не менее, общая атмосфера города какая-то очень расслабленная и гостеприимная.
На местном базаре мы купили дыню, которой и обедаем и ужинаем. На следующий день мы снова купили дыню, которой обедали и ужинали. Таким образом, здорово разгрузились, сэкономили на еде, и набрались зимних витаминов.

Весь следующий день был посвящен только походу до базара за дыней, сну, и хамаму.

P1110796  P1110795

Хамам понравился прежде всего за саму атмосферу. Это здание с 16 века практически не менялось, только в входном первом зале сделали ремонт, остальные 4 зала стоят такими уже многие года. Каменные купола потолков с небольшими отверстиями в самом верху для естественного освещения и вентиляции, полы из каменных плит, где-то теплых, где-то прохладных. Здесь моются и местные, но для туристов всё делают отдельно. Тётенька хозяйка сначала кладет  нас на камни прогреваться, затем жесткой мочалкой делает «скраб», снимая катушками отмершую кожу, затем обмывает и натирает тело специальной маской из масла, имбиря, желтка и трав, которые мы не запомнили, после помывка и массаж. И мы свеженькие и расслабленные отправляемся улыбаясь домой и жалея только, что не взяли фотоаппараты.

Бухара. Узбекистан.  Бухара. Узбекистан.

Конечно хамам это не русская баня с парной – это прежде всего помывочная, температура тут умеренно теплая. Но для того чтобы познакомится с тем, как оно, - сходить стоит.

Утром мы позавтракали и отправились с заключительный город нашего путешествия – в Самарканд.

Самарканд.

В Самарканде совсем сугробики, но зато ясная погода и даже солнышко. Заселились мы в «Баходир», недалеко от Регистана – местечко удобно расположенное, довольно теплое, но очень неухоженное, если не сказать грязноватое. Но ходить и искать не хотелось.

Самарканд. Узбекистан.  Самарканд. Узбекистан.

Да простит нас Самарканд, но он нам не понравился. Ну то есть он понравился нам как город, Регистан прекрасен, голубые и зеленые купала, покрытые снегом смотрятся потрясающе. Сам город просторный и какой-то лёгкий. Но вот работники туристической инфраструктуры (читай кассиры и менты) – задолбали своим крохоборством. Ощущение, что не следуя государственным ценам, они просто называют их от балды, а когда ты разворачиваешься уходить, кричат «девушки, девушки, можно скидку сделать…».

Самарканд. Узбекистан.  Самарканд. Узбекистан.

В общем мы на них всех обиделись (читай «все козлы») и внутри никуда не ходили, осматривая и фотографируя все снаружи, дабы не разочаровывать себя ещё больше. Единственное – поднялись на маленький минаретик действующей мечети, загадать желание :). Теперь вот надо это желание воплощать…

На второй день мы прогулялись до мавзолея Амира Тимура, а оттуда через весь город по простым жилым улочкам через частный сектор отправились к мечетям Даруну и Беруну. Наши Дарун и Берун оказались на кладбище, но зато рядом оказались потрясающие развалины на начальной стадии реставрации – большой портал со сбитой мазайкой, здание под оцинкованной крышей, внутри стоят леса, и сделано укрепление некоторых отдельных проемов между стенами – вставлены новые несущие балки, переложены кирпичи. Заходить внутрь было опасно, но разглядывать с чего всё начинается – было очень интересно. И наконец-то за это никто не просил денег. Радостные мы пошли и домой тоже пешком, но уже другой дорожкой, хорошо нагулявшись.

Самарканд. Узбекистан.  P1110901

А затем наелись в чайхоне очень тяжелой пищи, которая аукнулась мне на следущий день отравлением, сорвав поездку вокруг Червакского водохранилища и оставив лежать на день в гостинице Ташкента с температурой.

В Ташкенте за время нашего отсутствия немного потеплело, город встретил нас солнышком и отличной погодой, по которой мы и отправились на поезде домой в Барнаул.

Поезда и вокзалы.

Когда путешествуешь по стране как турист и только по туристическим местам – то часто не чувствуешь страну и народ как она есть на самом деле. И не смотря на то, что Средняя Азия – знакомый нам «мир», паравозы и вокзалы стали в ней нашим отдельным путешествием.
Мы ехали в общей сложности 4мя поездами – Барнаул-Ташкент, Ташкент-Ургенч, Ургенч-Навои, Ташкент-Барнаул.  

Барнаул-Ташкент был пожалуй самым тяжелым, так как перед новым годом возвращались с работы домой гастарбайтеры, подвыпившие шахтеры и строители, с соответствующими запахами, гомоном на весь вагон днем и ночью, узбекскими проводниками  которые не убираются и не топят, дубак в вагоне по ночам и ночные разборки. В целом нас лично никто не тревожил, даже наши соседи были вполне спокойными и интеллигентными по местным меркам, но общая атмосфера за 2.5 дня очень вымотала. Музыка и книжка помогали отвлекаться, но не от всего можно отвлечься :).

И вот он – ночной вокзал Ташкента, оплот цивилизации. Тут мы оказались в ночь после волгоградских взрывов вокзала, и мне удалось познакомиться с начальником вокзала :). Поскольку контролеры на входе сработали великолепно, разглядев газовую горелку и честно спросив меня, есть ли баллон. Я честно сказала, что есть. После этого долгий обыск и решение – конфисковывать или нет. Нужно отдать должное – все были очень вежливыми и очень извинялись, в итоге я пошла с дежурным к начальнику, начальник сказал «не имеем права оставлять, бум оформлять акт», ну акт так акт. Минут 40 наверное оформляли. Я за это время смотрела новости о взрыве волгоградского вокзала и понимала, что они делают свою работу, поэтому была согласная на всё, тем более не велика ценность. Оформили, изъяли, пожелали счастливого пути и отпустили.

Вокзал был промерзшим просто страшно. В попытках дождаться утра мы с Таней одели на себя всё что могли – лыжные штаны, шапки, капюшоны. Самым теплым местом был туалет, выходя я сказала неожиданную фразу «только тут я чувствую себя человеком» :)). В общем теперь крылатая фраза «Ташкеееент!», имеет для нас совсем другое значение, не связанное с жарой. Так я не мерзла пожалуй даже в лыжных походах :).
Вечером мы сели в ночной плацкарт Ташкент-Ургенч.  Сам вагон был сильно чище и опрятнее, и даже девушка в соседней секции пела этнические песни, но тоже не обошлось без ночных разборок за «места» между местными, невыключающимся светом, жутким сквозняком, и ленивым проводником, который так и не выдал одеяла, не смотря на просьбу. Но и это пережили.

Очень «забавным» был отъезд Ургенч-Навои. Мне удалось познакомится и с начальником Ургенчского вокзала. Мы с Таней приехали за час до поезда, поезд ещё не подавали. Полчаса до отправления – поезда нет, 15 минут – нет. 10 минут – объявляют прибытие и посадку поезда Волгоград –Ташкент, а наш называется Ургенч-Бухара – ни название ни номер поезда не совпадают. Весело. Табло в Узбекистане отсутствует на всех вокзалах – даже в Ташкенте его не было.

Ловлю у кабинета дежурного по вокзалу, даю ему билеты и спрашиваю «это мой?». Он говорит: «не, ваш уже месяц как отменили! Беги в кассы, пусть тебе быстренько перебивают на этот поезд».  Кассы – это другое здание через улицу и перекресток. Ну делать нечего – бегу. Хорошо, что попадаю на отсутствие очереди. Мне оформляют возврат старых  и продают новые, чудом найдя две верхние полки в одной секции плацкарта. Поезд битком. Так мы хапнули острых ощущений и на этом вокзале :). Зато успели на поезд.  Он даже удобнее нашего, так как прибывает в Навои на два часа позже в 7:30….думали мы, ставя будильник….

Но уже в 6:50 нас разбудил проводник со словами «выходите, уже приехали, подъезжаем» :)). Вобщем очень ответственный поезд приехал на 40 минут раньше в Навои.

Пошли знакомиться и с этим вокзалом и его начальником :).

Вокзал маленький, нам всего то и нужно было – оставить вещи в камере хранения и пойти гулять, а затем забрать вещи и отправиться в Бухару.
С этой мыслью я пошла искать хоть кого-нть в камере хранения. Камера есть, хранения нет, людей тоже, - разбудила какого-то мужика. Он описал какую-то сложную логистическую схему, которая сводилась к тому, что сейчас мы с ним найдем начальника вокзала и он расскажет, что с нами делать. Такое впечатление, что ооочень редко тут люди пользуются камерой хранения :). Либо нам суждено познакомиться со всеми начальниками вокзалов Узбекистана :).

Начальника нашли. Он проверил наши документы и отправил на тотальный досмотр. Наши рюкзаки на лавочках снова обыскали под ноль, до каждой коробочки и мешочеков. Все было вежливо – единственное, заставили открывать наши подарки друг к другу, что было несколько неудобно. В процессе нас «отсобеседовали» человек 6 и в форме и в штатском, столько же раз проверили документы, и в итоге взяли рюкзаки в камеру, в ответ не дали никаких бирочек (так как для бирочек там нет даже полочек), и сказали «идите в кассу, купите себе квитанцию на два места, потом придете, покажете начальнику, вас пустят за вещами». В общем без начальников никак :). Но забор вещей прошел без приключений – строго по схеме :).

Второе знакомство с Ташкенским вокзалом было добрым – там значительно потеплело, и даже было слышно тётеньку, которая объявляет поезда.
Поезд Ташкент-Барнаул был ооочень «забавным». Пока он стоял на границе через полчаса от Ташкента, мы убили у себя на стенах и столе 4-5 тараканов, а тетенька рассказывала, что тут ещё и мыши водятся (это тоже оказалось правдой, ночью мыша пищала). На мой вопрос к проводнику «что ж у вас так много тараканов?», он ответил шедевряльно «а щас тронемся – они уйдут!» :). И ведь они действительно ушли! Скорее всего, потому что дуло и не топили, окна обмерзали льдом. Не дураки тараканы водится на таком морозе :).
В остальном поезд был поспокойнее, чем обратный рейс, но гомон и голоса на узбекском не смолкали в моей голове ещё минимум сутки после приезда домой  :). Пожалуй, в следующий раз мы лучше полетим самолетом :).

Выводы.

Так как это не первое мое посещение Узбекистана, не было каких либо больших ожиданий и романтики. Зима конечно не очень красочное время для этой страны, но зато очень мало туристов, дешевые такси между городами, возможность торговаться за цены в гестах, фотографировать пустые улицы и исторические объекты без людей на фоне. Дешевая еда, особенно если питаться с базара. Зеленые человечки хорошо применимы в качестве горсправки :). Новый год был замечательным. Хива лучше всех! Хамам хамамистый! Лепешки и дыни вкуснючие! Носки с узбексой  «моной лизой» шедевральными :) глиняные узбеки на осликах с арбузами – очень симпатишные :) и главное молчаливее настоящих! :)

Картина узбекского художника в музее Хивы - буквально поразила излучаемой добротой. (Фото Тани Артемовой)

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