19 Нояб 2013

 

Осень в этом году собиралась быть поздней, и из-за обилия дождей 7 сентября ещё ничего не напоминало о приближающейся золотой поре.
До Топольного мы доехали на двух автобусах с пересадкой в Бийске и приехали туда около 20:00.

Чтоб не искать на ночь глядя в сумерках место под палатку, я заранее списалась с хорошими ребятами из экопоселения Поднебесье, и Слава предложил за символическую плату поставиться с палаткой у них на территории, с возможностью баньки на обратном пути. Отказываться было грех, тем более это давало возможность непосредственно у местных узнать особенности маршрута. Так как район, куда мы собирались -  очень малохоженный.

Теперь немного о районе.

Бащелакский хребет.

Бащелакский хребет находится на территории Алтайского Края, а не республики Алтай. И не одно из немногих мест края, где горы достаточно серьезны и превышают отметку в 2000метров. Тем не менее места довольно мягкие, как и весь Алтай в предгорьях. Тропы здесь довольно заросшие, так как туристов почти не бывает – чаще в сезон ходят рыбаки и охотники, но у них как правило не туристические цели, и они могут сходить с троп в любых удобных для них местах.

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Так случилось, что меня всегда тянуло в сердце Бащелака какой-то непреодолимой силой. За последние несколько лет я объехала на велосипеде вокруг этого хребта всеми самыми заповедными дорожками, где не ступало ранее колесо велосипедиста, - этакая кору. И каждый их этих маленьких велопоходиков был маленькой сказкой. И вот теперь остался последний рубеж – в самое сердце, к истоку реки, которая дала название этому хребту – на Бещелакское озеро и к горе Загриха (мне кажется правильнее произносить ЗагрЕха – «за грехи»). Я искренне считаю эти места сакральными и таинственными. И на это есть основания. Очень необычен и сказочен путь туда. Но обо всём по порядку…

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7-8 сентября.

Я собиралась подниматься наверх непосредственно вдоль реки Щепета, но Слава сказал что там всё очень заросшее и легче пройти хребтом, и примерно обрисовал схему, как попасть на тропу и какие ньюансы могут возникнуть в процессе. Этим он там очень помог в дальнейшей ориентировке.

Выслушав напутственное «Ну и смелые же вы ребята! В такое время идти» мы водрузили наши довольно тяжелые рюкзаки на спины и отправились в путь.

От Топольного первые 16-20 километров идут по проселочной дороге до деревни Елиного (то ли от ёлок, то ли от эллинов :) ). Так как мы приехали рейсовым автобусом, то нам предстояло идти всё это пешком. Была слабая надежда, что сможем подкинуться, но попутных машин нам за весь день так и не встретилось, только у самого Елиново, когда нам было уже ненужно, бороздила туда-сюда сельхозтехника, торопясь до непогоды скосить и убрать сено.

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Утро было ясным и морозным. Трава стояла в инее и утреннее солце поднимало его белым туманом над лугами вдоль реки Щепета. Дорожка была красивой и приятной. Хотя в резиновых сапогах идти по дороге и не самое приятное занятие и к концу дня вы все таки заработали натоптыши, что и не удивительно после 22км по солнцу по твердому покрытию при 18-20кг за спиной. Но шли мы очень бодро, и уже примерно к 16 часам подошли к крайнему броду за деревней Елиново, от которой начинались покосы и предстояло искать выход тропы с покосов. Мы отложили это занятие на утро, и встали лагерем на краю покоса.

За оставшееся время до вечера мы покушали два раза и ещё пополдникали в середине, а также покупались и обработали ноги от мозолей.  Вечер был теплым и ясным. Рядом стояли красивые скальники, по полям за горизонт убегали ровные дорожки покосов и стояли стожки. Вечером с полей поехали трактора, пересекая реку как раз на броду, рядом с которым мы стояли.

Диалоги с местными были похожими, они спрашивали «а кто вас ведет». На ответ «я веду» меня спрашивали «а ты раньше там была?», на ответ «нет, но знаю куда идти», они повторяли фразу Славы «ну и смелые же вы девчонки», и желали нам доброго пути.

А один дяденька на коне сказал с таким выражениям «Я бы! Точно не пошёл!», что эти слова стали лейтмотивом всего нашего похода. Пожалуй, никогда ещё местные так не предостерегали меня от возможности заблудится на местности. Поэтому я морально готовилась быть внимательной и прислушиваться ко всем словам.

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Но подсказать, где начинается тропа с покоса – нам так никто и не смог. Поэтому после ужина, мы с Таней отправились сами. Обглядев край покоса, который заканчивался небольшим хребтом, и выбрав наиболее удобный ложок для подъема, я отправилась через траву и кусты туда – и безошибочно вышла на старую конную тропу. Мы прошли по ней немного, убедившись что она идет в нужном направлении, хоть и трудно проглядывает в зарослях колючек, и решили что сюда нам завтра и дорога.

Возвращаясь уже в сумерках увидели, что Ольга Васильна без нас развела костер. Мы сварили киселя и ещё посидели у костра, пропахнув дымом, и отправились в безмятежный сон.

9 сентября.

Проснулись мы часов в семь, солнышко только начало выходить над горами, но было так холодно, что вылазить было лениво. Первой не выдержала Оля. Нужно сказать она так и была до конца похода первый, поднимая нас каждое утром. Мои наклонности жаворонка спали в этом походе и я наслаждалась возможностью утром поваляться чуть дольше, чем обычно это бывает в летних походах. Палатка была вся во льду, а трава вокруг покрыта толстым слоем белого инея.

Водичка была набрана в котелок с вечера, и я не вылазя наружу, завела горелку в пологе и поставила воду на завтрак. Утро стартовало. Собирались мы не торопясь, давая солнышку подобраться к нашей поляне поближе.

Мимо прошел вчерашний мужик на коне с вопросом «Не околели?». Мы бодро сказали «Нее!», на что нам пожелали счастливого пути. Сметя лед с палатки самодельным веничком и упаковавшись – мы двинулись в путь. Сегодня у нас день основного подъема. С 700 метров нам надо выйти по хребту на перевал 1400м, и затем немного спустится до реки к избушке, где планируем ночевать.

Тропа не мудрствуя сразу же круто полезла в горку. На полях и в открытых местах она то и дело пыталась потеряться в траве, и приходилось постоянно смотреть под ноги, угадывая старые ямки от копыт, при заходе в лесочек – она была более явной, но из-за того, что используется зверюшками чаще чем людьми, - имеет множество отворотиков в непредвиденные стороны, которые впрочем не сбивали нас с толку.

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Самое трудное было идти по траве. Трава в этом году знатная – в человеческий рост, с семенами и паутинками и наклоненная ровно навстречу нам – ноги путаются в ней несщадно, а голова и тело покрыты сплошь семенами. Учитывая что солнце сегодня жаркое – шлось непросто и мы часто отдыхали. Воды на подъеме почти нет, и Оля запаслась двумя бутылочками, из которых нас с Таней и поила, а так же кормила разными батончиками, в общем выполняла роль «мамы кормилицы» :).

Когда тропа поднялась повыше на хребет и пошла по березовым рощам – идти стало легче – и не так круто, и без адской травы, и наконец то стало видно пейзажи вокруг. Пейзажи тут типично русские – зелено, березовые околоки, лесисные холмы. Осень ещё только робко пытается вступать в свои права, и даже не верится что где-то наверху совсем другая суровая природа и уже пролетает снег.

На перевал 1400м мы вышли довольно рано – около 12 часов. И присели отдохнуть под деревом-стражником – огромным кедром, в корнях которого поселились ящерки, которые составили нам компанию. Заодно мы полопали и кедровых шишек.

С перевала видны первые пейзажи, которые и делают путь на Бещелак сказочным.

А именно – «китайские» стены из каменных изваяний и стражников, которые тянутся от одной центральной вершины в три стороны. А сам путь к озеру и горе Загриха лежит через две такие стены – через два перевала «Ворота». Но это ждет нас завтра. А сейчас мы издалека фотографируем стены, поросшие красной карликовой березкой.

Немного отдохнув и перекусив, повыбирав из двух троп верную – двинулись дальше.
Спустились мы примерно часа за два. Тропа здесь вдоволь избита кабанами и маралами, и имеет очень много развилок, но все они в конечном счете ведут в одном направлении. Кабаны накопали много ямок вдоль тропы, и мы радуемся, что пока ещё сухо и тропу не развезло.
Перед избушой нас встретила большая болотинка, перебравшись через которую мы вышли на отличную зеленую полянку с домиком на берегу реки. Удивительно укромное и уютное место.

Домик пуст, вокруг ни души.

Поставив палатку, смыв усталость в реке, и отметив ходовой день глотком коньяка, мы принялись готовить ужин.

Главным героем этого вечера стала Ольга Васильевна. О бурной жажде деятельности этой женщины можно слагать легенды.
Бродя по окрестностям, она увидела поляну прекрасных опят, которых насобирала нам на ужин. Мы их почистили, обжарили на сковороде, найденной в избушке и приготовили царский ужин с грибами.

Но Оля хотела большего, и жажда заготовителя рвалась в бой. На её уговоры набрать ещё, я сказала «не, ну куда мы их девать будем? Мы же не съедим!». Оля сказала, что хотя бы пофотографирует, и ушла в кусты….  «Изверги! Изверги!» - доносилось из кустов. «Ты давай фотографируй! :)» - отвечали мы. Но Оля настаивала что мы изверги, и нам стало жалко и я разрешила набирать грибов дальше.

Оля набрала целый пакет. Они конечно были прекрасны, но их было очень много. Мы их почистили, и Оля уже в сумерках, под моросящим дождем принялась их жарить. Обжарили, поели, разложили по контейнерам, и ели ещё последующие два дня :).

Вечером на другом берегу много кричали маралы, и мне даже казалось что сверкали огоньки, но видать только казалось.


10 сентября.

К утру полил дождь и погода испортилась. А сегодня нам предстоял самый длинный и тяжелый день, в финале которого, если повезет – мы дойдем до озера.

Но дождь не дал нам встать слишком рано. И в итоге поднялись мы только в 8 утра. Приготовили завтрак, собрались, и вышли. Ещё вчера мы примерялись к бревну через реку – проходить по нему пешком опасно – узковато и с проволокой, которую надо перешагивать и балансировать на одной ноге, без возможности куда-либо упереться. А сам брод глубоковат. С вечера решили что будем аккуратно переползать на попе. Но утро изменило планы. Бревно было мокрым и скользким, и первые 20 сантиметров по нему показали мне, что не доползу, рюкзак мотыляет, а Ольга и тем более упадет. Решили искать переход пешком и разуваться.

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Нашли и перешли хорошо и без экстрима, не торопясь по большим камням. Обулись и пошли вдоль реки по довольно набитой влажной лесной тропе, на которой помимо следов маралов и кабанов добавились свеженькие следы медведика, поэтому идем мы периодически постукивая палками и попевая песенки.

Тропа вихляет нещадно и забирает наверх довольно плавно, постепенно удаляясь от реки. Мы направляемся к первому перевалу «Ворота». В кустах спугнули какую-то большую животину – марал, кабан или медведь это был, мы так и не узнали из-за высоких кустов, так же несколько раз спугивали куропаток и глухаря.

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Ближе к вершине снова полил дождь, порой такой сильный, что заставил нас пережидать пики под деревьями. В общем Ворота так просто не подпускали, заставляя трудится. И вот наконец-то, спустя несколько часов мы вышли выше границы леса и увидели первую цель нашего пути – длинную протяженную гряду каменных стражников, причудливо напоминающих троллей, животных и людей. На первом перевале дул страшный ветер, который хотел нас просто сбросить, скинуть обратно, и пофотографировать удалось лишь немного, но стоило нам спуститься пониже в цирк, между двумя перевалами, как ветер стих, дождик прекратился и даже выглянуло немножко солнышко.

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На часах было около 14 часов и мы были очень голодными и уставшими. Поэтому воспользовавшись погодной паузой, остановились покушать. Оставшаяся от завтрака гречка с грецкими орехами и сыр – ушли просто на ура! Хорошо, что мы подготовились. Не зря я тащила на перевал лишние полкило готовой каши.

Перекусив мы отправились на второй перевал. Тропа поднималась не слишком круто, и была такой живописной и нереальной, что мы то и дело останавливались фотографировать и крутили головой в разные стороны. Но портящаяся погода и время – подгоняли нас вперед.

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Второй перевал ещё более необычен чем первый, - расщелинка прохода между глыбами тут совсем узенькая и сама проходит по каменной плите. Мы немного пофотографировали, надеясь что на обратном пути через несколько дней погода будет благосклоннее, и отправились вниз.

С перевала первой что встретило нас – это широкая полоса горелого леса. Лес необычный. Это очень старый горельник и в нем как-то на удивление спокойно и очень тихо, даже не хотелось уходить! На обратном пути это место нам подарит ещё более незабываемые впечатления!


Выйдя из горельника мы спустились до травяной поляны, верез которую протекал ручей и было место под стоянку, правда влажноватое и открытое всем ветрам. Время было 16 часов и по прямой до озера оставалось около 4.5 км правда через перегиб хребта. Обсудив с девочками сутуацию, мы решили не вставать, а биться до озера, даже если приёдем уже в темноте.

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Но погода снова внесла свои коррективы.

Спустя полчаса полил проливной дождь. Тропа была раскисшей и петляла просто жутко среди поваленных деревьев. Наша скорость упала до километра по прямой за ходку (за 30-40 минут), и усталость начала резко давать о себе знать. Но источники воды как назло пропали.
Девчонки крепились, но мне уже было понятно, что до озера мы не дойдем сегодня, либо дойдем в таком виде, что не сможем обеспечить себе быт и ночевку. Поэтому я объявила, что идем мы «до первой лужи», и встаем как придется здесь, лишь бы встать. Пока есть силы на обустройство лагеря и пока ещё светло.

Судьба нас услышала и буквально через 15 минут встретился болотистый ручеёк и метрах в 100 от него одно место под палатку. Мы ставим рюкзаки под огромный кедр и принимаемся за лагерь. Место под палатку нам не нравится, так как некуда закрепить тент от дождя, а ставить палатку по проливным дождьем без укрытия – очень не хочется, да и сами мы мокрющие насквозь.

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Выбираем заросший косогор между двух кедров-исполинов в нескольких человеческих обхватов с пересекающимися ветвями, и принимаемся всё делать «по-взрослому»! Натянули тент между кедров и близстоящих кустов, натаскали сухого мха и хвои чтоб выровнять уклон для палатки, поставили палатку, натянули веревочки для просушки вещей, принескли в полог палатки большой плоский камень, выровняв его палками – теперь на него можно ставить горелку и котелок для готовки. Теперь дождь нам не страшен! Жизнь наладилась!

К слову сказать, дождь лил до самого утра и кончился только в 10 утра следующего дня.  Так что решение наше было очень верным. Мы спокойно согрелись, обсохли и приготовили вкусный ужин, и легли спать, прикрытые «заботливыми руками» старых кедров  под мерное покапывание капель с веток на тент. Спалось просто сказочно!

11 сентября.

Утро было приветливым. Мы позавтракали, собрались и пошли наши оставшиеся километры до цели – Бащелакского озера. Тропа от дождя раскисла, в все веточки и травинки щедро забрызгивали нас дождевыми каплями как бы намекая «просыпайся!».

Через буквально километр мы подошли к крупному притоку реки Бащелак, через который перебрели мы с Таней по камням, а Оля дойдя до середины, испугалась что не сможет сделать ключевой шаг, я вышла к ней, чтобы передать вторую трекинговую палку, но выронила её – палку понесло по течению и она застряла в камнях – да так хорошо, что подсказала нам идеальное место для брода, через которое и перешла Оля.
Светило солнышко и мы подходили по красивейшей тропе к озеру, периодически останавливаясь, чтоб снять одежду, полопать брусники и черники, пофотографировать меандрирующую реку Бащелак, вытекающую из озера. Жизнь налаживалась.

P1100075  Бащелакский хребет

 У озеро первые стоянки были очень открытыми и ветреными, а дальше стоянки не прошлядывались и тропа растворялась вдоль кромки берега, и мы с Таней оставили Олю с рюкзаками, а сами отправились искать. Продираясь по верхам (с верху лучше видно), через кусты и тернии, вышли на шикарную маленькую стояночку на одну палатку с костровищем и близко к озеру. У самого озера тут стоянок нет – все они раскиданы по лесистому склону над озером и все очень маленькие. Но наша, пожалуй, самая удобная. Тут даже есть специальное бревно для медитаций, откуда открывается вид на всё озеро, на Загриху и на водопад, втекающий в озеро сверху с одного из склонов Загрихи.

Озеро Бащелак. Гора Загриха.  P1100105

Уже более простой тропкой вдоль кромки озера мы сходили за Олей и рюкзаками, и принялись ставить лагерь. Погода вновь портилась.
Наученные горьким опытом непогоды, решили снова натягивать тент, но тянуть то его тут не за что. С двух сторон от палаточного места – только карликовая ива. Но инженеров это не останавливает. Применив все навыки инженерной мысли, мы таки натянули тент, выставили палатку так, чтоб во вход не задувало и выход был под тент а не под дождь, и под тентиком ещё и осталось место для приготовления еды и веревочки для просушки вещей, а также полочка из огромного ствола. В общем мы молодцы.

 Озеро и гора Бащелак.  Бащелакский хребег. Озеро и гора Бащелак.

Только успели все это сделать и снова пошел дождь. Но у нас то уже есть свой домик! А значит всё не по чём!

Пока готовили обед дождь смилостивился и закончился. После обеда мы с Таней завалились дрыхнуть, а добытчица Оля ушла за ягодой, вернувшись с полным мешком черники, брусники и жимолости. Поэтому на второй «обедоужин» мы сварили ухи из сайры и мнооого кампота, да такого наваристого, что забыть его просто невозможно!

 p4  Бащелакский хребег. Озеро и гора Бащелак.

Оля помимо ягод набрала ещё и дров и развела костерок, так что ужинаем мы в уюте :).

После ужина снова решил накрапывать дождик уже со снежком, а я отправилась быстренько искупаться в озере (не думайте что я туда ныряла, всё таки почти 0 градусов и ветер, миска меня спасла – поливания и растирания лучший способ мыться в ледяной воде). И мы завалились медитировать в палатку, и разговаривать о житье-бытье. Оля пыталась сподобить нас сварить хотя бы манной каши на ещё один ужин, но мы отказались, а она не слишком сопротивлялась со словами «надо худеть».


 12 сентября

Отоспались. Но всю ночь Оля шуршала. Утром я её спросила: Оля, чего у тебя шуршало?

Оля сказала: "представляешь, я одела на себя всё, и поэтому положить под голову вместо подушки остались только целофановые пакетики :)."
Я вылезла из палатки посмотреть на мир.

Сегодня у нас запланирована радиалка на вершину Загрихи, откуда открываются потрясающие виды на окрестные чаши озер. Но утро было малоперспективным. Небо было очень пасмурным, и лишь небольшай голубая прогалинка мигрировала туда-сюда, гонимая ветром.

В зависимости от того, увеличится эта прогалинка в размерах или нет – будет ясно, прояснеет или нет. Но судя по тому, что вершину горы не видать – на неё мы уже точно не пойдем. Будем подниматься только на близстоящий хребет. А пока решаем ждать погоды.

P1100161  P1100162

Выход намечаю на 13:00, как на время, когда уже должно быть ясно, что будет в погодой и будут ли хоть какие-нибудь виды.

В 11 утра полило, и мы снова засели в палатку. В 12 дождь разошелся во всю силу. Убегаю в туалет под кедр, и возвращаюсь со словами «похоже это и был мой радиальный выход на сегодня», но около 13:00 дождь притих. А мы уже так устали от лежаний в палатке, что готовы на всё.

Поэтому одеваемся в дождевое, вооружаемся фотоаппаратами и выходим наверх.

P1100173  P1100177

И только мы поднялись метров на 100, начинается самый сильный дождь дня ещё и со снегом. Мы смеемся собственной непрозорливости :), но идем дальше по скольскому куруму вверх, попутно лопая ягоды.

Но нужно сказать, что непогода очень необычно раскрасила природу. Клубы тумана переползающие по загривку Загрихи, белые хлопья, и мы счастливые и мокрые, не успевающие вытирать фотографии от капель.

p3  Бащелакский хребет

Вышли на обзорные места, откуда видно озеро сверху и видны истоки нашего водопадика. И тут дождик наконец прекратился! Фотосессия, и отправляемся спускаться другой стороной через водопад, практически без тропы, найдя себе приключений :). В общем вернулись мы мокрое но счастливые, и размявшие тела, уставшие без движения.

Загриха  P1100214

Развесили вещи, кто под тент, а кто "так", и принялись готовить обед.

Снова покапал дождик. У Оли штанишки остались на веревке под деревом. Сидя над горелкой у входа в палатку, спрашиваю: «Оля, сходить перевесить?»   Она: «да нет смысла пока что, они ж все равно влажные, не ходи.»  Через 10 минут дождь полил как из ведра. «Оля, снять?». Оля: «ну теперь уже нет смысла, все равно вымокли, пусть висят».

А погода неистовствовала. Поднялся ураганный ветер, который пытался вырывать палочки на которых держался тент, и трепать нас и палатку.  Но все выстояло, лишь периодически приходилось выходить поправлять палочки.

Бащелакское озеро

А мы по-прежнему лежим в палатке и слушаем непогоду. На десятки километров ни души. А мы в сказке, но сказка наша уже готовится к зиме, и в эту борьбу отступающей осени и наступающей зимы и попали сегодня мы.

«Эээх, сейчас бы топор, да дрова поколоть» - вздыхает Оля. Безделие - это трудное испытание для нашей неутомимой женщины :).
Ещё с вечера мы принимаем решение утром уходить вниз, не зависимо от погоды. В этом году на вершину нам уже не сходить, программа максимум итак выполнена.

13 сентября.

Всю ночь погода неистовствовала, и только в утру успокоилась, прояснила и очень подморозила. С утра хороший минус, и всё в ледяной глазури как после ледяного дождя, но зато чистое голубое небо и солнце! Такое долгожданное!

P1100232  P1100238

Но выходим мы назад не сразу, а долго собираемся, сушим кое-чьи штанишки! :) прогреваем конечности, завтракаем, и только в 11 часу отправляемся назад.

Загриха провожает нас медвежьим ликом, покрытым белым снежком. До Свидания! Даст Бог – увидемся ещё.

P1100250

Путь назад через горельник и двое Ворот были волшебными.

То ли сказывалась погода, то ли солнышко, - но сегодня всё здесь улыбалось нам.

p2  P1100289

Горелый лес на солнышке просто сверкал своими белыми сухими ветвями, получив от меня название «Белолесье». Ворота встретили как домой, на каждых побыв подолгу, испробовав воды из каменной чащи, погуляв по каменному саду, поздоровавшись с добродушной скалой-грибком с человеческим лицом доброго дедушки. Поев ягоды. Бросив последний взгляд на заснеженный Талицкий белок – мы отправились вниз, с тоской и счастьем. Всё удалось!

p1  P1100302  P1100377

Тропа за дни дождей страшно раскисла и мы буквально катились по грязи. Это немного выматывало, но уже к 14-15 часам мы спустились к избушке, где встали на ночевку. Погода над Загрихой снова испортилась, но у нас ещё светило солнышко.
Мы снова искупались и отдыхали на воздухе.

P1100409  P1100414

P1100429

14 сентября.

Сегодня у нас наполеоновские планы, уйти за Елиново и надеется на то что подкинемся до Топольного. Сложилось все немного по-другому, но сделали мы за этот день в любом случае много.

Буквально за час-полтора мы зашли на перевал 1400м, по пути найдя шикарный белый груздь, точнее два (Оля жжет!). И принялись спускаться по вездесущей траве. Была надежда, что она хоть теперь не будет заплетать нам ноги. Но не тут то было. От дождей она только поднялась, и  мы снова в семенах и паутинке, хорошо что идем вниз!

P1100447  P1100459

Осень наконец-то пришла в эти места за дни нашего отсутствия и березки пожелтели. Погода снова хмурится, но пока ничего не льет.

Также за время нашего отсуствия увеличилась площадь покоса, и там где была ещё тропа – теперь поле, спускаемся снова к броду, но тут не останавливаемся, только перекусываем и отправляемся дальше. Начинает накрапывать дождик, но не расходится.

Проходим Елиново -  ни одной машины в Топольное. Ну и ладно, пойдем снова пешком. Хотим дойти сегодня до беседки на святом источнике, чтоб встать рядом с ней. В дождливую погоду наличие крыши рядом – это хорошо. Казалось, что беседка близко за деревней, но мы идем и идем, а она никак не появляется. В итоге доковыляли уже изрядно вымотанные, зато на завтра осталось совсем немного.

P1100464  P1100470

Ставим варится грузди, ставим палатку, и отправляемся купаться на речку под небольшим дождиком. Я помыться успеваю, а вот Тане приходится ретироваться голышом до беседки уже под ливнем, и одеваться в беседке. Оля помылась переждав дождик под красивую радугу.

Ужинаем фирменным блюдом - макаронами с картошкой и грибами. Отмечаем окончание нашего похода. До Топольного осталось около 11км.

15 сентября.

Ночью утром нова лило жутко. Но надо уже отсюда выбираться. Поэтому первая встаю в 7 утра под дождём и ставлю в беседке горелку с готовкой, и принимаюсь собирать вещи. За мной поднимаются и Оля с Таней, дождь ещё немного пугает, но в конце концов заканчивается, мы завтракаем и выходим.

За ночь дорогу совсем развезло и мы не идем, а едем по ней в резиновых сапогах, собрав большие комья грязи на каждой ноге. Наконец, выходим на грунтовку. У меня болит травмированная ещё в прошлом году нога и ковыляю с трудом, но все равно к 12 часам мы под снова начавшимся дождем добираемся до Топольного до нашего уже родного «Поднебесья».

P1100479

Слава предлагает нам остановится на втором этаже бани, чтоб не мокнуть под дождем в палатке, и мы договариваемся во сколько топить баньку. А сами переодеваемся, развешиваем палатку на веревке. Дождик прекращается и мы идем гулять в магазин за конфетами и мороженым :). А затем Слава просит нас обработать для варенья огромный таз ранеток, что мы и делаем с удовольствием, заняв время до бани и попутно налопавшись переспевших яблочек.

А потом банька – жаркая прежаркая, такая долгожданная, и такая дающая вновь почувствовать себя человеком!

А ночью снова был ливень с ураганом, который стих только под утро.

В 6 утра мы вышли на перекресток вылавливать наш рейсовый автобус до Бийска, рассвет высвятил окрестные вершины Бащелака, сплошь покрытые белым снегом.

Мы успели до зимы! И мы едим домой, наивно думая, что этим походом мы уже завершили наш сезон 2013 года...

Бащелакское озеро в сентябре

 

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